Millivolts
Millivolts Ok, so I know that you shouldn't tune off of the millivolts because you could have a lazy or bad O2 and things could get ugly. However, I was wondering what the millivolts would read on a 03 Z06 for a 12.5-13.5 AFR? Also is it the first or second O2 to use? Also what is normal timing for WOT on a LS6?
You can't generalize it like that because the temperature
means more than mixture, to the output voltage.
I'd aim for about 900mV if I had no better way to go. By
the B1S1, B2S1 (front) sensors.
I'd start with 25 degrees and work up from there until
you find KR showing up, then back out. Start safe and
keep track of what you did & what happens. When more
timing stops making a difference you can quit; when you
find KR you can dial it back about 2-3 degrees and be
at about the same power, KR is past the point of best
torque.
means more than mixture, to the output voltage.
I'd aim for about 900mV if I had no better way to go. By
the B1S1, B2S1 (front) sensors.
I'd start with 25 degrees and work up from there until
you find KR showing up, then back out. Start safe and
keep track of what you did & what happens. When more
timing stops making a difference you can quit; when you
find KR you can dial it back about 2-3 degrees and be
at about the same power, KR is past the point of best
torque.
If running stock manifolds, I usually say shoot for 900mV's, which is a little on the safe side. You should be looking at the bank 1 sensors and go off the lower of the two. Usually, the driver's side of the motor is a little leaner. But, you really need a WBO2 to dial it in.
As for timing, the stock tune will start around 13*~14* at 1200rpms, peak at 26* around 3200rpms, and drop to 22* from 4000rpms on up.
As for timing, the stock tune will start around 13*~14* at 1200rpms, peak at 26* around 3200rpms, and drop to 22* from 4000rpms on up.
