Ok hptuners and b1 cam...221/221/558/558/114lsa.
06-20-2007, 02:08 PM
#1
Ok hptuners and b1 cam...221/221/558/558/114lsa. I have this cam currently not my gt 7 in sig .Gt7 likely going in 408 or 427.
What counts should I be looking for on idle speed solenoid and can I get there without drilling my nice new tb. Just by opening up my throttle blades with screw on tb.
Anyway tuning my car to run with b1 and didn't want to drill out the nw tb.
its running not too bad.I just raised idle to 950 when warm. Is there really anything else I should do in terms of timing with this cam or throttle follower or any of that other stuff. pretty new at this hptuners tuning.
Also what does factory usually have dialed in for afr on these ls1s? Are they usually low 12 to 1 or high 11s. How much power is hiding in there from going to around 12.8?
What counts should I be looking for on idle speed solenoid and can I get there without drilling my nice new tb. Just by opening up my throttle blades with screw on tb.
Anyway tuning my car to run with b1 and didn't want to drill out the nw tb.
its running not too bad.I just raised idle to 950 when warm. Is there really anything else I should do in terms of timing with this cam or throttle follower or any of that other stuff. pretty new at this hptuners tuning.
Also what does factory usually have dialed in for afr on these ls1s? Are they usually low 12 to 1 or high 11s. How much power is hiding in there from going to around 12.8?
06-20-2007, 02:39 PM
#2
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IAC should read between 50~60 steps at a warm idle. Tuning the base running airflow table (desired idle airflow table) with the idle trims is the first step (assuming your IAC's aren't maxed out in one direction or another). Once you have a good idea of where that table needs to be set, you adjust your TB set screw so that IAC counts are where they need to be. Last, you do a TPS reset to ensure TP% stays at zero when off the throttle. Once you're done, that cam shouldn't need more than 800rpms to idle ok.
Factory AFR's and the AFR you're running now are going to be 2 different things. Only way to tell where you're at is to get a WBO2. Just because the table commands a 12.0:1 (or whatever) air fuel ratio doesn't mean that's what the car is running. You should target 12.5ish for peak torque and 12.8~13.0 for peak hp. When getting started though, I usually set it to one number across the board (like 12.5). That makes dialing things in a little easier.
Factory AFR's and the AFR you're running now are going to be 2 different things. Only way to tell where you're at is to get a WBO2. Just because the table commands a 12.0:1 (or whatever) air fuel ratio doesn't mean that's what the car is running. You should target 12.5ish for peak torque and 12.8~13.0 for peak hp. When getting started though, I usually set it to one number across the board (like 12.5). That makes dialing things in a little easier.
