What would cause a diagnostic tool to not link up?
What would cause a diagnostic tool to not link up? i tried to link my diagnostic code reader to my car and it keeps saying 'failed to link' or something like that. any reason why the car might cause this? or is it more likely that the reader is the culprit?
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks,
Josh
Originally Posted by nofearracing28
On some of them the cigarette lighter fuse is blown....and that is what powers up the DLC.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/740981-obdii-scanner-not-powering.html
my car is still giving me a linking error, but i tried it on my mom's stratus and it worked fine. i just replaced my clutch master cylinder, could i have pinched a wire or pulled something out on that side. there are only suppose to be 4 wires/pins on these cars right? i'm going to go to autozone today and see if their scanner works on it. sorry guys, i don't know anything about pcm/diagnostics.
thanks,
josh
thanks,
josh
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TECH Senior Member
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From: Jacksonville, FL
If the CIG/ACCY fuse ISN'T blown probe the DLC connector pins with a meter to see if you have power. www.obdii.com/connector.html
Last edited by 2001NBMZ28; Jul 1, 2007 at 01:01 PM.
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dont probe the dlc then you will have terminal retention issues. first things first...
take a test light and BACK probe the power terminal and make sure the test tight illuminates. (put your test light to ground)
then BACK probe the ground and make sure your test light illuminates(put your test light to voltage for this test not ground)
then if you have a dvom you can back probe the communication line and depending on how good or crap your meter is you can watch it try to communicate should see a 0v-7v. but look for something closer to 7v
hope this helps. but make sure you back probe it only if you go in from the front you can cause more problems i see this kind of crap all the time at the dealer
take a test light and BACK probe the power terminal and make sure the test tight illuminates. (put your test light to ground)
then BACK probe the ground and make sure your test light illuminates(put your test light to voltage for this test not ground)
then if you have a dvom you can back probe the communication line and depending on how good or crap your meter is you can watch it try to communicate should see a 0v-7v. but look for something closer to 7v
hope this helps. but make sure you back probe it only if you go in from the front you can cause more problems i see this kind of crap all the time at the dealer
sorry, what does back probe mean? are you saying:
1. test light the battery terminal so see if it has power. did this, it has power on 16.
2. use a multimeter to test to make sure that the signal/circuit grounds (pins 4/5) are grounding correctly.
3. then try to see if pin 2 has ~7v
1. test light the battery terminal so see if it has power. did this, it has power on 16.
2. use a multimeter to test to make sure that the signal/circuit grounds (pins 4/5) are grounding correctly.
3. then try to see if pin 2 has ~7v
it means dont shuve the test light into the front of the dlc but go in from the back.
and when you are testing for power. put your test light to a good ground.
and when you are testing for ground put your test light to a know 12volt source i.e the battery 12v feed at the underhood fuse block.
yep 7v's when car is on engine running or not.
and when you are testing for power. put your test light to a good ground.
and when you are testing for ground put your test light to a know 12volt source i.e the battery 12v feed at the underhood fuse block.
yep 7v's when car is on engine running or not.
i got autozone to scan this evening, and their's worked fine. so, i guess the one i have is just not compatible with my car for some reason. anyway, i got codes p0128, p0135, p0140, p0155, p0160. i know the 140/160 is from having no o2 sims, but i guess i'll be getting a new ect & front o2's.
thanks to everyone for all their help,
Josh
thanks to everyone for all their help,
Josh
