Driveability tune VS. Dyno Tune, which is better?
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Baltimore County, MD.
Driveability tune VS. Dyno Tune, which is better? I hear/see people talking about getting driveability tunes, and of course always hear of people getting dynotuned.
Which one is better?
Or do they both have their strengths and weaknesses?
Is either one better for a simple header/exhaust/intake/A4 car?
Which one is better?
Or do they both have their strengths and weaknesses?
Is either one better for a simple header/exhaust/intake/A4 car?
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From: From Ohio now in that state up north
Drivaabiltiy should bve included in any tune but street tunes and dyno tunes are different. They both have advantages but dyno tuning on a load bearing dyno is the best in my opinion.
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Tuning on a Dyno is like tuning for a machine , Dyno might get max HP but does nothing for street driving .
Dynos are tools , WOT tuning most times , part throttle tuning is important also , I would do Dyno then street tune .
Dynos are tools , WOT tuning most times , part throttle tuning is important also , I would do Dyno then street tune .
You drive the car on the street. You don't drive it on the dyno. As stated above, driveability should be a part of any tune. If you can't peacefully drive the car, then it's not going to be any fun.
FWIW, I was on two different dynos (Dyno Jet and Mustang) last weekend and both times the car ran LEANER on the dyno than it did on the drive home (more so on the DJ). Some cars will run richer on the dyno. On the street AFR is what counts though.
FWIW, I was on two different dynos (Dyno Jet and Mustang) last weekend and both times the car ran LEANER on the dyno than it did on the drive home (more so on the DJ). Some cars will run richer on the dyno. On the street AFR is what counts though.
Driveability tune and dyno tune arent 2 different tunes. Its two different parts of one tune. Although, some tuners overlook the driveability part, or spend less time getting it right.
A good tune should be complete. It should cover the lower rpm, idle, off idle, return to idle, etc. Along with WOT tuning which is mainly PE and ignition timing, after the part throttle stuff is straightened out.
A good tune should be complete. It should cover the lower rpm, idle, off idle, return to idle, etc. Along with WOT tuning which is mainly PE and ignition timing, after the part throttle stuff is straightened out.
I don't do PE [alone] for WOT (though I have in the past)... On the street with the LM1 I command a straight across the board PE value (usually pick 12.8:1) and after 2-3 pulls with the AFR error going against the MAF curve you are magically hitting commanded value. Then on the dyno pushing PE around usually best numbers are found (at least for me) being a tad leaner down low, a bit richer in the middle, and then back to a bit leaner up top. There is almost always a bit more to find like this than straight-lining the AFR if you are being **** about things.
Originally Posted by Frost
I don't do PE [alone] for WOT (though I have in the past)... On the street with the LM1 I command a straight across the board PE value (usually pick 12.8:1) and after 2-3 pulls with the AFR error going against the MAF curve you are magically hitting commanded value. Then on the dyno pushing PE around usually best numbers are found (at least for me) being a tad leaner down low, a bit richer in the middle, and then back to a bit leaner up top. There is almost always a bit more to find like this than straight-lining the AFR if you are being **** about things.
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
I agree completely, and do things very similar. I was speaking generically.
You ever notice that tuned cars in the dyno section, if displaying an AFR that isn't all over the place are ALWAYS in like a straight line...
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AFR is a funny animal. You can lean up the top end but at the dragstrip in high gear on a long pass this can lead to preignition and knock due to heat build up in the engine between coolant and oil temps.
I prefer to stay 12.6/12.8 or so it seems to generate the best engine longevity on NA applications. Secondly the 4-5 hp your picking up a leaning it out is most likely going to be so minimal you'll never see it.
Durability over 5 hp isn't a big deal. I geuss thats where the prioritys lay.It depends on your methodology. the Flat AFR is just a result of everybody chasing the same number mindlessly.
don;t however take the blanket statement that those are optimal AFR's. It definately can shift with comrpession,camshaft manifold choices.
To adress the thread title get on a good mustang or similarly loading dyno.make sure it has a vehicle simulation mode where you can run the car loaded as it would be on a street. Use grades and such to push the hills up and down to achive the loads you need.
whats going to take time is the Ve table adjustments to get transient fueling.
I prefer to stay 12.6/12.8 or so it seems to generate the best engine longevity on NA applications. Secondly the 4-5 hp your picking up a leaning it out is most likely going to be so minimal you'll never see it.
Durability over 5 hp isn't a big deal. I geuss thats where the prioritys lay.It depends on your methodology. the Flat AFR is just a result of everybody chasing the same number mindlessly.
don;t however take the blanket statement that those are optimal AFR's. It definately can shift with comrpession,camshaft manifold choices.
To adress the thread title get on a good mustang or similarly loading dyno.make sure it has a vehicle simulation mode where you can run the car loaded as it would be on a street. Use grades and such to push the hills up and down to achive the loads you need.
whats going to take time is the Ve table adjustments to get transient fueling.
Originally Posted by Frost
You ever notice that tuned cars in the dyno section, if displaying an AFR that isn't all over the place are ALWAYS in like a straight line...
Last edited by LS1curious; Jul 24, 2007 at 07:45 PM.
