pulling timing with HP Tuners
pulling timing with HP Tuners I have tried this, but nothing yet, I need to pull timing to spray, and I think the program should be able too, but if someone has done it, I would like some advice.
thanks
Jason
thanks
Jason
I haven't tried it, but I was thinking about trying to locate the knock sensor wire to the input of the pcm. If you could piggyback into this to send a 5V signal to the PCM when your nitrous activates it would use the knock retard tables in the pcm to retard your timing. Sounds good in theory. Anyone else have any input on this?
If it's a dry shot and you have a MAF setup then the PCM
knows the air charge, you just have to see where your
highest NA g/cyl is and take out as much timing as you
want above that point.
Wet direct, you have to trick it.
knows the air charge, you just have to see where your
highest NA g/cyl is and take out as much timing as you
want above that point.
Wet direct, you have to trick it.
You'd use the IAT spark advance adder table and make the
-40F pull whatever amount. Then you have to cobble up a
relay inline with the IAT sensor, cut the wire and connect
it to COM and NC with the coil energized by the solenoid line.
A resistor of 100Kohms across the COM/NC terminals will make
the IAT read true when not energized and -40F when turned
on. A little 12V Radio Shack relay (SPDT or DPDT) will do the
job.
Some people like to trick it to a high temperature but I think
this is liable to misrepresent the airflow more especially on a
speed-density car.
-40F pull whatever amount. Then you have to cobble up a
relay inline with the IAT sensor, cut the wire and connect
it to COM and NC with the coil energized by the solenoid line.
A resistor of 100Kohms across the COM/NC terminals will make
the IAT read true when not energized and -40F when turned
on. A little 12V Radio Shack relay (SPDT or DPDT) will do the
job.
Some people like to trick it to a high temperature but I think
this is liable to misrepresent the airflow more especially on a
speed-density car.
You'd use the IAT spark advance adder table and make the
-40F pull whatever amount. Then you have to cobble up a
relay inline with the IAT sensor, cut the wire and connect
it to COM and NC with the coil energized by the solenoid line.
A resistor of 100Kohms across the COM/NC terminals will make
the IAT read true when not energized and -40F when turned
on. A little 12V Radio Shack relay (SPDT or DPDT) will do the
job.
Some people like to trick it to a high temperature but I think
this is liable to misrepresent the airflow more especially on a
speed-density car.
-40F pull whatever amount. Then you have to cobble up a
relay inline with the IAT sensor, cut the wire and connect
it to COM and NC with the coil energized by the solenoid line.
A resistor of 100Kohms across the COM/NC terminals will make
the IAT read true when not energized and -40F when turned
on. A little 12V Radio Shack relay (SPDT or DPDT) will do the
job.
Some people like to trick it to a high temperature but I think
this is liable to misrepresent the airflow more especially on a
speed-density car.
this is exactly how I have been doing them.
