There's something wrong with my car, but what is it?
My SES light is not on, but the car is running rough. Prior to going to the track I though that I was just feeling additional vibration due to the polyurethane. Now I think I must have hurt the engine some how between the two track outings and the polyurethane made the problem more obvious. Unfortunately, I did have a 3rd gear to 2nd gear shift at about 100 mph (before the Pro 5.0 and between the two track outings). I thought I caught it in time and pushed the clutch back in. Could I have possibly broken a spring or bent a push rod and not realized it until I put the motor mounts in? Is there any was to check with Atap? Or does anyone have an idea of what might be wrong?
Thanks,
Jim
How is the weather today vice last year? If it is hotter today than last year that could be part of the problem.
What kind of tires are you running? You are close to 12's. Better tires = higher launch = lower 60's = better 1/4 times. Even some Nittos or my favorite BG DR.
One bad thing: once you start mod'ing these cars it is hard to stop.
David
Thanks for the reply! As for the weather it was pretty comparable to last years track outing. As for the 60', I agree that I could be losing some e.t., but I don't think it should affect my mph that much. I was expecting to go low 13s at around 108 mph with a 2.20 60'. I was no where close. The car felt pretty flat and really didn't seem to rev like it should. On a side note, if I hold the engine at 1300 rpm's it vibrates the steering wheel pretty good. Once I bring it up to about 1500 rpm's it smooths out considerably. However, once I get into the higher rpm's (say above 3000) it starts to vibrate again. This is kind of confusing me. I definitely feel that there is something wrong with the car, I just don't know what or where to start looking.
Thanks,
Jim
Do you know if there's any way to use Autotap to determine if there is a bent pushrod? I'd rather exhaust all my options before I resort to pulling the valve covers and physically inspecting the push rods.
Thanks,
Jim
Do you know if there's any way to use Autotap to determine if there is a bent pushrod? I'd rather exhaust all my options before I resort to pulling the valve covers and physically inspecting the push rods.
Thanks,
Jim
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It seems the drivers side bank is running a lot richer than the passenger side. Any other time I logged WOT runs (either with or without the MAFT) the drivers side and passengers side O2s were always close to each other. I don't know if this means anything, but I found it unusual.
I'll try posting this question in the internal section. However, please keep your comments coming.
Thanks!!!
Jim
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Thanks for the input! I took your advise and did a compression test today.
Cyl. #1 = 167 psi
Cyl. #2 = 158 psi
Cyl. #3 = 170 psi
Cyl. #4 = 165 psi
Cyl. #5 = 165 psi
Cyl. #6 = 165 psi
Cyl. #7 = 165 psi
Cyl. #8 = 165 psi
Do my O2 readings and compression test shed any light on the source of my problem? I really do not know how to interpret this data, but if I had to guess I'd look at cylinder #2, because it's a little lower than the rest.
Thanks,
Jim


