Lc1 Keeps Killnig Sensors
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Innovated is real fussy, but when it works correctly it's on the money. I run 2 lc-1, 6 wire and a 7 wire. Both run with the xd -16 gauge and are independent of each other. I also have one connected to my my HP tuner. Both gauges run with in .1 of each other. The only thing I don't like is the stereo jack set up. It looses the signal at times and you need to go back and recalibrate. For the money it could have been better. I also had issues with the grounds. Stick with it you'll get it.
All these are critical, with any wideband
Grounded to the block (we use the back of the head).
Ensuring there are no exhaust leaks near the sensors
Ensuring the sensors are at the correct angle (Not in the bottom half of the pipe)
Ensuring the LC-1 Powers up everytime the car is running
Do those things, along with setting up LM programmer correctly, and it should work fine
To the OP, have you tried a free-air cal on the LC-1 before you replace the sensor, and do you do it prior to installing a new sensor?
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I think with any wide band it's in the setup, regardless of brand. I also be leave you get what you pay for.
I run the two Lc-1's and there not temperamental. You just need to set them up correctly and they work perfect. Are they the best? I don't know, I just know after working out my ground problems they work great. I wasn't looking for an easy setup, just one that worked well. I run a left and right bank. They run within .1 of each other. No reason for two I just wanted to play. Only one is hooked into my tuner.
I run the two Lc-1's and there not temperamental. You just need to set them up correctly and they work perfect. Are they the best? I don't know, I just know after working out my ground problems they work great. I wasn't looking for an easy setup, just one that worked well. I run a left and right bank. They run within .1 of each other. No reason for two I just wanted to play. Only one is hooked into my tuner.
Its Not Fried.. But Eurospec You Did Hit On Something Im Using A Stock 02 Bung And I Think It May Be Getting Fouled By Condensation
I Tried To Recal A Fouled Sensor Today And Its Reading But The Numbers Are Way Off.. I Think My Problem Lies In Placement Of The Sensor
I Tried To Recal A Fouled Sensor Today And Its Reading But The Numbers Are Way Off.. I Think My Problem Lies In Placement Of The Sensor
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Doc I Think What Your Missing About Our Conversation Is If I Went Out And Bought A New Sensor Right Now It Will Work Fine For About 2 Weeks And Then Slowly Start Fouling
Doc I Think What Your Missing About Our Conversation Is If I Went Out And Bought A New Sensor Right Now It Will Work Fine For About 2 Weeks And Then Slowly Start Fouling
when you notice the sensor start to read incorrectly, have you tried doing a free-air cal, or just replacing it?
NORMally I JUST REPLACED THEM.. YESTERDAY I DECIDED TO DO A FREE AIR CALC AND IT TOOK THE LC-1 OUT OF THE ERROE MODE BUT THE #'S I WAS GETTING WERE JUST JUNK
i dont think doc has diagnosed my problem correctly because my lc-1 outputs does read different voltages and can achieve 5 volts.. after my free air cal my lc-1 was wouncing arround in the 4.XX volt range but ovbiously this is meaningless
before the free air cal it just read a constant 50.00 (which i set up for the default for bad sensor)...
also i was wondering is the 02 sensor suppose to get really hot? i read somewhere it was suppose to get very hot yet the whole time ive had my unit it gets slightly hot but you can still handle the sensor after it warms up (so im guessing that's not the "extreamly hot" that the warning in the instruction booklet talked about)
i dont think doc has diagnosed my problem correctly because my lc-1 outputs does read different voltages and can achieve 5 volts.. after my free air cal my lc-1 was wouncing arround in the 4.XX volt range but ovbiously this is meaningless
before the free air cal it just read a constant 50.00 (which i set up for the default for bad sensor)...
also i was wondering is the 02 sensor suppose to get really hot? i read somewhere it was suppose to get very hot yet the whole time ive had my unit it gets slightly hot but you can still handle the sensor after it warms up (so im guessing that's not the "extreamly hot" that the warning in the instruction booklet talked about)
NORMally I JUST REPLACED THEM.. YESTERDAY I DECIDED TO DO A FREE AIR CALC AND IT TOOK THE LC-1 OUT OF THE ERROE MODE BUT THE #'S I WAS GETTING WERE JUST JUNK
i dont think doc has diagnosed my problem correctly because my lc-1 outputs does read different voltages and can achieve 5 volts.. after my free air cal my lc-1 was wouncing arround in the 4.XX volt range but ovbiously this is meaningless
before the free air cal it just read a constant 50.00 (which i set up for the default for bad sensor)...
also i was wondering is the 02 sensor suppose to get really hot? i read somewhere it was suppose to get very hot yet the whole time ive had my unit it gets slightly hot but you can still handle the sensor after it warms up (so im guessing that's not the "extreamly hot" that the warning in the instruction booklet talked about)
i dont think doc has diagnosed my problem correctly because my lc-1 outputs does read different voltages and can achieve 5 volts.. after my free air cal my lc-1 was wouncing arround in the 4.XX volt range but ovbiously this is meaningless
before the free air cal it just read a constant 50.00 (which i set up for the default for bad sensor)...
also i was wondering is the 02 sensor suppose to get really hot? i read somewhere it was suppose to get very hot yet the whole time ive had my unit it gets slightly hot but you can still handle the sensor after it warms up (so im guessing that's not the "extreamly hot" that the warning in the instruction booklet talked about)
Ok Im Gonna Pull It Out This Weekend And Re-re-re-wire The Dam Thing... Can You Give Me Some Insight On Placment For The Unit As Of Now Its Under My Drivers Seat.. As Far As Gorunds I Have Gone Thru The Firewall And I Grouned To The Strut Tower For 1 Of The 2 Grounds While Putting The Other To A Chassis Ground Inside The Vehicle...
We use quite a few of them, each of our personel vehicles have one, we have installed them in multiple customer's cars, and we have 3 of them we have custom made into portables, and they all work fine when installed properly.
All these are critical, with any wideband
Grounded to the block (we use the back of the head).
Ensuring there are no exhaust leaks near the sensors
Ensuring the sensors are at the correct angle (Not in the bottom half of the pipe)
Ensuring the LC-1 Powers up everytime the car is running
Do those things, along with setting up LM programmer correctly, and it should work fine
To the OP, have you tried a free-air cal on the LC-1 before you replace the sensor, and do you do it prior to installing a new sensor?
All these are critical, with any wideband
Grounded to the block (we use the back of the head).
Ensuring there are no exhaust leaks near the sensors
Ensuring the sensors are at the correct angle (Not in the bottom half of the pipe)
Ensuring the LC-1 Powers up everytime the car is running
Do those things, along with setting up LM programmer correctly, and it should work fine
To the OP, have you tried a free-air cal on the LC-1 before you replace the sensor, and do you do it prior to installing a new sensor?
The LM-1 is the exact same controller as the LC-1, so proper installation on that, as well as any other wideband is critical to its performance and longevity
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
And just before you install a new sensor, you have to power up the LC-1 with no sensor plugged into it, then power down, then plug in the new sensor; this causes the LC-1 to do a heater calibration (which is different than a free air calibration) when it next powers up.
Do what Doc said, and with your DMM measure the voltage between the red and blue wires, you should be seeing better than 12.4V, and it should pretty much be the same as alternator output voltage.
Measure voltage between grounding point (blue wire) and battery negative, you should be seeing less than 0.1V... if not then fix this.
Do what Doc said, and with your DMM measure the voltage between the red and blue wires, you should be seeing better than 12.4V, and it should pretty much be the same as alternator output voltage.
Measure voltage between grounding point (blue wire) and battery negative, you should be seeing less than 0.1V... if not then fix this.
Knock on wood, my ground is chassic ground under the driver seat. It has been going great forever how long they have been out. I did have a controller go bad about a year ago. No sensors.
Can the controller be fixed Doc?
Bill
Can the controller be fixed Doc?
Bill
