LS2 conversion,, engine will not start
#21
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He would be cranking the engine at 455 RPM when reading 1100 RPM with an incorrect tooth count. Does this sound feasible or still too high? If it's supposed to be at 200-250 I don't see him spinning it near this fast.
#22
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I removed the crank sensor . . and under better light. . it is definatley BLACK.
I can feel in the crank sensor hole with my finger and when I turn the engine over with a wrench in the other hand . . . I can feel the reluctor wheel. It is a staggered wheel and feels like morse code when I turn it. I has a smooth part, then a staggered dash, then smooth, then a staggered dash . . etc. It is not evenly spaced and feels random to the touch. I am told with that description that it is a ls1 reluctor wheel ? ? Is that right ?
I am using a BIG STUFF 3 controller for the engine and for some stupid reason . . it definatley says 1100 - 1200 rpm and you can even see it go up and down as the engine hits compresson on each stroke. VERY STRANGE.
Still no fire and no gas past the injector . . and the pink wire on my coils are hot with ignition on ! !
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#28
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I didnt build that part of the motor . . so Im not sure.
Would an ls1 gear work at all with the sensor reading from the front of the motor ? Because the people who build the long block had this thing running on the dyno before they shipped it.
I am trying to look them up. . but it looks like they may not be in business anymore.
Would an ls1 gear work at all with the sensor reading from the front of the motor ? Because the people who build the long block had this thing running on the dyno before they shipped it.
I am trying to look them up. . but it looks like they may not be in business anymore.
#29
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I didnt build that part of the motor . . so Im not sure.
Would an ls1 gear work at all with the sensor reading from the front of the motor ? Because the people who build the long block had this thing running on the dyno before they shipped it.
I am trying to look them up. . but it looks like they may not be in business anymore.
Would an ls1 gear work at all with the sensor reading from the front of the motor ? Because the people who build the long block had this thing running on the dyno before they shipped it.
I am trying to look them up. . but it looks like they may not be in business anymore.
#30
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Also, you don't necessarily need to have a cam position sensor working to get an engine to run. I know that with things like a Megasquirt you only need the crank position sensor.
#31
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OK . . . . so my big stuff 3 is ls1 controller . . but now wired backwards is an ls2 controller . . . . my cam sensor is white so it is and ls2 cam sensor . . . and you think my cam has an ls1 gear on it ?
If it is an ls1 gear . . could I make it work with an ls1 senor in the front of the block ( would it even fit ? ) and switch the wires back to the original ABC setting on the pigtail ?
I dont think I could ! !
SO . . what Im saying is . . . someone had this motor runng already . . so it has to be the right gear on that cam . . other wise it would be impossible !
If it is an ls1 gear . . could I make it work with an ls1 senor in the front of the block ( would it even fit ? ) and switch the wires back to the original ABC setting on the pigtail ?
I dont think I could ! !
SO . . what Im saying is . . . someone had this motor runng already . . so it has to be the right gear on that cam . . other wise it would be impossible !
#32
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No, some EFI systems do not require a cam position sensor. They go solely by the crank position sensor. The cam position sensor would not be needed then. Do you know what they had it running with on the dyno?
The LS1 sensor wouldn't fit. Needs to be an LS2 timing chain cover with proper cam gear.
The LS1 sensor wouldn't fit. Needs to be an LS2 timing chain cover with proper cam gear.
#33
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NOPE . . I dont know what they were using ?! Could they be that stupid ?
Well . . is there anyway to test the signal from the sensor itself ?
Maybe power and ground it . . . and then put a volt meter on the signal wire and see how it pulses ?
Well . . is there anyway to test the signal from the sensor itself ?
Maybe power and ground it . . . and then put a volt meter on the signal wire and see how it pulses ?
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Well, they are out of business... ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Does the BS3 require that you have the cam position sensor? I'll do some looking around online, see if I can find the link to the documentation...
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Does the BS3 require that you have the cam position sensor? I'll do some looking around online, see if I can find the link to the documentation...
#37
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You know. . .if my cam sensor is reading each and every one of those holes in the ls1 cam gear . . .then it would prolably multiply the signal out what looks like 9 times.