HSV-GTS-300

But in your Post #14......you had no cam sensor attached.......you were reading RPM off the crank sensor alone and got 1150RPM just cranking.

Wouldn't this discount the cam gear as a possible culprit for having an extra high RPM reading ?????

monsterchevylizzard

YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT . . I FORGOT ABOUT THAT !
Im going to pull the sensor in the morning and stick my finger in there and see if I can feel any holes or just a solid gear with a raised edge.
If it is the right cam gear . . Im screwed . . and out of ideas !

I know I have the right crank reluctor and crank sensor now though for sure after seeing the pictures.

HSV-GTS-300

I still think the car will start if there is no cam signal at all. It will crank longer, maybe backfire because it doesnt know what stroke its on....until other sensors help figure out the misfiring (which is normally the job of the cam sensor).


Read the last sentence and click the link in Post #13......sure hope it's not that !!!!!!

monsterchevylizzard

Man . . I really thought I had it figured out with the cam sensor until you pointed that out ! ! ! It does read fine without the cam sensor at all ! ! Well at least it thinks it is reading fine.

Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

I swap out the crank sensor, and tried to start it again.

It will crank very well, but will not fire up. I do not hear the whine from the fuel pump in the rear. And I have no fuel pressure at the schrader valve thats on the incoming fuel line in the engine bay.

I will check the ground wires behind the dvrs side head, well Ill check both heads. I cant remember as I write this which head has the ground wires.

So it seems the issue for me is the fuel pump, why does it not work?

Other info: I bought this Short block 402 stroker from Texas Speed, I also purchased from them all the required conversion stuff to swap in an LS2 for the original LS1. So I installed the cam gear set that they sent me. And I have the LS2 front cover plate. But, I do not remember a sepatrate cam sensor, I hope it was in the front cover plate, cause it has the wiring and plug. And Im assuming that I have a 24x reluctor ring (at least it was on the paper work). I did not count the teeth!

Another fine point is that when I tried to upload my new program using LS1Edit (I have an very old version) the upload failed because LS1Edit gave me a warning that the battery was low on power. I charged up the battery, and then successfully (or so I thought) uploaded my new program.

Also, I have check all of the pertainent fuses, and have done a PCM reset.

monsterchevylizzard

Well . . I CAN tell you that . . whichever crank / cam sensor you have, even if its wrong ! That fuel pump should come on with ignition-on . . . for at least 3 seconds ! ! NO MATTER WHAT. In order to prime the fuel rail.

If it doesnt come on with " key on " ignition . . . then the problem is either the pump / ecu / or pump-ecu connection ( relay ).

Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

Yes, thats is most logical. How do I track these items down? For example, why is this fuel pump relay located and how do I identify it?

Thanks for the reply and getting involved here.

The grounds are good behind the dvr side head. When I did that part, proper ground I knew was very important.

monsterchevylizzard

First. . you will have to go through your fuses and check which one powers the fuel pump. Check and make sure they arent burnt out.

The relay is probably in the pannel as well. If you can find the realy for the fuel pump using the diagram on the fuse panel . . check and see if it " clicks" when you turn the ignition on. . if not. check and see if it is getting power from the 85 or 86 connection with a volt meter when the ignition is turned on.

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

The relay for the fuel pump is up in the front of the car in the engine compartment. You could try to jump out the circuit to see if the pump works.

Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

Last nite I checked the inj1, inj2, and the fuel pump fuses, all are good.

I will locate the fuel pump relay, so its supposed to "click" when engaged?

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

Yes, the click is the sound of the relay energizing, and at which point you should see the fuel pressure gauge rise (if you've still got it hooked up).

monsterchevylizzard

DAMN ! . . I have the correct LS2 cam gear installed . . . . . . . . . ? Back to square one !

monsterchevylizzard

Well . . I was just about to pack it up and send in my computer to BS3 to get checked . . and John told me to try one more thing.

I changed the setting in the computer on " pulse per revolution " to 24 . . for some reason the original tunner had it set on 3 . . . .and it started right up !

Thanks everyone.

Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

The wife says that she heard a click when I turned the key to ON while listening right near the fuse boxes in the engine bay. The fuel pump did not run. And I pushed in the valve pin on the schrader valve, no fuel came out! So I have no fuel pressure (as expected).

How do I teast the fuel pump relay, other than a clicking noise?

Could this possibly linked to my failed attempt to upload a new program? I did successfully (or so it seems) upload the program later that same day.

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

Congrats! Glad to hear you are up and running.

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

I don't think it's necessarily a failed attempt to program. Did the reflash complete, or did it fail?

Well, you could try to turn the key to on and using a piece of 18 gauge wire connect pin 87 to pin 30 in the socket where the relay goes. If you get fuel pressure, that means the relay could be bad, or the computer isn't commanding the relay to actuate.

You can then hook an analog voltmeter to pins 85 and 86, then turn on the key. If the meter goes up (or down if you have the polarity reversed), the computer is commanding the relay, but the relay isn't working. You can pull the relay from one of the cooling fans or AC (they all use similar relays) and plug it in to check.

If we weren't so busy, I'd come down there to help you out.

Let us know what you find out.

Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

I flashed the program onto the PCM a second time. On both attempts, the upload completed successfully. OK, so lets rule that out.

Some relay in the front fuse box (the one closest to the head light assembly) does click as it energizes. Fuel pump still does not come on, and there is no fuel pressure.

Pin 87 & 30 is in this fuse box, I assume if I remove the fuel pump relay, you are saying to hot wire those two locations. Is that right?

Chevythunder71: I really appreciate your help here!!!!!

Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

pin 87 & 30 appear to be related to the starter relay.

monsterchevylizzard

Every relay has those numbers. . . try another relay

and jump 87-30.

Your headlights might come on, ac come on, starter. etc.
All the high powered stuff will have a relay. . and they all SHOULD do something !

The cover to the fuse box doesnt have pictures with which relay is which ?

( guess you found out how to hotwire you car ! :+)

Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

The two lids to the fuse boxes are well labeled. So whats being told to me? I will pull the fuel pump relay and jump across the empty pin holes.

OK, I pulled the fuel pump relay and I see what you guys are talking about, every relay will have the same pin numbers, thank you.