Effects of Lowering fan turn on/off temps
'stat), all that happens is that your radiator
tank will be full-time cooled and your thermostat
will be in charge. It will hold you at about 195F
and life will be good. Further, the cooler tank
will provide an instantaneous "thermal surge"
capacity, that is, if the thermostat sees hot from
sudden high-power-output activity, it has some
"cold reserve" to let in, not just more 210F hot
water.
If you have a 160F 'stat and go this way, the
setpoint might be below some closed-loop ECT
threshold (maybe) and at any rate would be well
away from where the stock PCM data "expects"
operation to be. So there the need for tweaking
might apply. Perhaps more generally than WOT alone
if you want to idealize mixtures & spark for the
cooler temps.
Lowering the fan temps to kick on earlier isn't always a good thing. Your fan temps should coincide with the type of Thermostat that you have. The Radiator auxiliary fans are there to facillitate the thermostat.
By lowering your fan temps lower than what the thermostat can provide, then you will be forcing your fans to stay on all the time. This increases both front end lift, front end drag, and shortens the life of your fan.
Fan temps should be set around the thermostat.
Stock Thermo:
First Stage On/Off: 229/222
Second Stage On/Off: 237/230
160 Thermo:
First Stage On/Off: 184/175
Second Stage On/Off: 194/185
Good Luck
30F coolant temp swings depending on driving
pattern. That's going to be tough to get any
tuning consistency with. How much spark do you
"leave on the table" to accommodate a 225F ECT?
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99% of the people out there are going to want to obtain peak performance while the car is moving. While the car is moving forward, the fans should be OFF (to reduce drag) and all coolant control should be done by the thermostat. There is a reason that race cars wire the fans to a manual switch.
I don't have to mess with spark in regards to engine temperature. Your car already does this for you. Our cars already have adjusters and modifiers to deal with changes in engine temp, air temp, etc...
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If you hook up an aftermarket gauge or watch your actually engine coolant temperature on a scantool, you will see it shifting all over the place.
is in charge. My ECT stays between 194 and 197,
solid, per Predator real-time.
As for who wants performance after 2 minutes of
zero airflow? Maybe you like to go KR-slow from
the stoplight. I'll take a little low-speed fan
noise. Fan switch is all well and good for a
track racer. Gonna remember to hit it every time
you coast to the intersection and wait? Not me.
I'd just leave it on. Oh, wait, I did. Sorta.
Drag? Yeh. Lift? Uh, huh. If the fan is on, it's
pulling you forward, man. Woo-hoo! Thing can't
even lift itself off the floor. What's it really
gonna do with 1800lb of nose weight?
is in charge. My ECT stays between 194 and 197,
solid, per Predator real-time.
As for who wants performance after 2 minutes of
zero airflow? Maybe you like to go KR-slow from
the stoplight. I'll take a little low-speed fan
noise. Fan switch is all well and good for a
track racer. Gonna remember to hit it every time
you coast to the intersection and wait? Not me.
I'd just leave it on. Oh, wait, I did. Sorta.
Drag? Yeh. Lift? Uh, huh. If the fan is on, it's
pulling you forward, man. Woo-hoo! Thing can't
even lift itself off the floor. What's it really
gonna do with 1800lb of nose weight?
If you guys feel the burning desire to change your fan temps to something lower, knock yourself out.
Is it going to dramatically effect the performance of your car and make it easier to tune? NO it will not, and inferring to people that they need to do this is just plain WRONG.
There are too many people that think GM's engineering department is just a ship of fools. If you have a stock thermostat, then you should be using the stock settings, bottom line.
Lowering the fan temps to kick on earlier isn't always a good thing. Your fan temps should coincide with the type of Thermostat that you have. The Radiator auxiliary fans are there to facillitate the thermostat.
By lowering your fan temps lower than what the thermostat can provide, then you will be forcing your fans to stay on all the time. This increases both front end lift, front end drag, and shortens the life of your fan.
Fan temps should be set around the thermostat.
Stock Thermo:
First Stage On/Off: 229/222
Second Stage On/Off: 237/230
160 Thermo:
First Stage On/Off: 184/175
Second Stage On/Off: 194/185
Good Luck
What would you suggest for a 180 thermostat?
30F coolant temp swings depending on driving
pattern. That's going to be tough to get any
tuning consistency with. How much spark do you
"leave on the table" to accommodate a 225F ECT?
I would set the fan settings to reign in your temperature at around 205.
Fan 1 On/Off: 213/206
Fan 2 On/Off: 222/214
Your fan temps should be somewhere in this area IMO.
Good Luck
2. Am I going to lose any performance if the PCM thinks the engine is still cold?





