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Why Would My Car Make more power with Hotter Cooland Temp?

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Old 06-23-2008, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Mouse
Yes you were lucky to get 100,000 miles out of them
Take a look at this
Ok guy's I did the Perfect Circle Ring training a few years back. Now Mahle has acquired them.

This is the link. You will need to create a Login
http://mahlecleviteelearning.com/use...in.aspx?pcid=2





Very interesting information
Old 06-23-2008, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by shiftless
Pulling no timing out on the spray? Stupid. Nitrous requires timing retard because it increases the burn rate. Either the timing was not optimized (retarded) to begin with, or you are leaving power on the table when spraying, and possibly rattling the motor in the process.

And about temps, keep in mind that the transmission and differential temps make a big difference too. Hotter = less friction.
Do you one a dyno?
Old 06-23-2008, 07:01 PM
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Eh. I would entertain the possibility. The 4.6L is a totally different lower compression motor with different heads. Nitrous won't burn the same in that motor.

Some motors want more timing some don't.

That is the general rule though. 4-5 degrees per 50 Hp or whatever. But if you look at truck cals they don't have alot of timing to begin with on the upper limits of the grams/cylinder table.
Old 06-23-2008, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
Eh. I would entertain the possibility. The 4.6L is a totally different lower compression motor with different heads. Nitrous won't burn the same in that motor.

Some motors want more timing some don't.

That is the general rule though. 4-5 degrees per 50 Hp or whatever. But if you look at truck cals they don't have alot of timing to begin with on the upper limits of the grams/cylinder table.
10.0 to 1 on 2000 + cars and 10.3 to 1 on 1999 and prior cars is lower than?


I have a contact that has a dyno that is a major tuner. He has spent more time than most playing on the dyno.

I am installing a Nitrous Express - LS1 - one piece MAF kit on that
fast DHS. I would like some input. Please read and get back to me. Thanks
ahead of time

This is what I have going on.

How about Spark Plug?
Do I need to change the range?
I guess we will find out about the Fuel Pump. If the Zeitronix ZAVT-1 shuts
the nitrous off for a lean condition we will go with a bigger fuel pump.

Less the $1250 wet kit not to bad.

This is a 2003 DHS - 275hp engine - New updated pistons (coated
skirts) - 3500 stall - Shift kit - 3.71 gears - Traction Control Torque
Management Defeat Device - 10 to 1 compression ratio

What AFR should I set for a Lean Limit for the NO2?
What EGT should I set for a Max Limit for the NO2?

We looked at using a Spark retard device, but I was told that this is not
necessary with this system. I was told that you have run some system without
retarding the timing.

Do I need the LPE 10° retard box? I do not need this correct? I would verify
this with the EGT reading correct?




HIS REPLY:
As long as it's a wet kit...no problems !


MY REPLY:
NO spark Plug change needed correct?


HIS REPLY:
With a WET kit you're good to go. Most people gauge experience with Nitrous on a dry system, which you'd normally pull timing, change plugs, etc.....


MY REPLY:
What kind of EGT temp should I have for a shut down on the N2O?
I have a Wideband and EGT monitor with a alarm box that shuts off the N2O.
Also what kind of AFR should I be looking for with the N2O running?
I am in the 10 to 12.2 range. I need to hook up the laptop and check
again. I think the 10. was on a low bottle. The 12.2 was on a full bottle.


HIS REPLY:
I'd run 11.2-11.5 with Nitrous.
EGT's ?? It's going to depend on where the probe is installed.
If it hits 12.6, I'd kill the Nitrous without hesitation...


MY REPLY:
I have a max of 790 on the EGT with out N2O


HIS REPLY:
You can run a lot higher than that...1100-1200 is good.
So how would I know if I need to remove timing? My EGT's only go up about 50° more.

Last edited by CalEditor; 06-23-2008 at 07:27 PM.
Old 06-23-2008, 07:27 PM
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Wow I am getting off the topic. Sorry
Old 06-24-2008, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Pro Mouse
My engine with the clearances of that of an LS1 180* T Stat is best for me.For years I thought 160* t stat was good.But I was wrong.I to this day feel that my LS1 went through so much oil is because of running it to cold.My 408 makes much Better power at 200 degrees than 180 degrees this was Proven on Dyno and Street.In my climate I have tried to make it work with fan settings and it did not work,end result in cold weather my engine ran to cold Hot weather my engine ran to hot.At least with a 180* T Stat I can have better control of it and I have already seen results...180 to stock is best....
Great, i guessed correct then, all my friends said to go with the 160 but I felt that may have been too cold. I elected to go with the 180 and have fanone come on at 193 and off at 188... i think, i forget what fan 2 is set at.

Thanks for the input
Old 06-26-2008, 04:42 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by alamantia
Great, i guessed correct then, all my friends said to go with the 160 but I felt that may have been too cold. I elected to go with the 180 and have fanone come on at 193 and off at 188... i think, i forget what fan 2 is set at.

Thanks for the input
You have made the correct choice....



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