DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

ok i got my car tuned today and i was a lil disappointed, i was hoping to hit 400+ with the mods in my sig but thats is wht my car pushed out.. My buddy corey at HPT tuned it and he told me i should of been pushing more but the temp was very hot 102 degrees 17 % humidity... he told me come bak in november with an ls6 intake and we should see somewhere between 410-425 hp somewhere in there...

he told me three things killed my car

1. its auto
2.the temperture
3.intake

whts ya ll input on this..
and btw HPT in new braunfels is a good place to get ur stuff done.. i recommend everyone to go and chek it out, good hosptality there.. well ttyl..

Eurospec2

iTrader: (2)

Don't worry about the Dyno numbers. Get it on the track and see how it performs before you worry about you power level.

DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

thks man cuz it feels way faster then 381...

Eurospec2

iTrader: (2)

To many people get wrapped up around dyno number's, you can attribute most of that to the internet .

At the end of the day, if fuel and spark are correct, and everything is functioning as it should, dyno numbers are only a simulation of performance. Get it on a track and see what it does, if it does not perform as it should, then you should be concerned.

Dennis@SpectacleSolutions

iTrader: (16)

weve tuned cars at our shop with similar mods that made 380, and weve tune cars with similar mods and a smaller cam that made 400

you just cant go by dyno numbers.

Ive had customers call me and say "I read on the internet that with my mods I should be at 400 and im only getting 385"



as stated, when its all said and done if your air fuel is good, your timing is good, and everything is put together correctly, it is what it is.

to answer your question....sure, temp and humidity can affect a tune....but I doubt it will affect it by 40 or 50 hp.

DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

yeah thnks guys for u input,i like the fact that numbers isnt everything my goal was to get to a 425 hp car but i know its gonna take more stuff but thnks for the input im gonna try and make time to get to a track and run my lil gurl to see how she moves.. thnks for the tips guys!

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

dyno-ing with an unlocked converter eats up a lot.

and you have all that head and cam and no LS6 or better intake? thats a big restriction there.


but yes the temperature will make a considerable difference.

DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

yea next mod is diffenetly the ls6 intake i just gotta save for one.. thnks for u input.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

If your lock up clutch is up to the task dyno that sucker in lockup and you will see some gain there too.


There are one or two LS6 intakes for sale now here on the boards for 250-275 range if you haven't seen them.

DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

no i havent i gotta chek it out i need that intake!!! btw how much gains would i see when its locked??

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Honestly I dont know but I always kinda figured about 20 ish? Thats just my speculation and also I notice most guys dyno numbers seem low with a A4 and stalled but I have come across a couple threads where they have dynoed them locked and the numbers are higher, more like 30-40 higher but I dont really see the converter losing that much.???


Call your tuner and see if he has ever done a before and after or can give you a better idea, since they are on the dyno all the time and see all the numbers they may know.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Since I was curious about it too I looked and found this pretty quick, I just searched for "converter dyno".



Here is a quote, great info, he lost 40RWHP by going through an auto with a stall, 10 was the auto, 30 was the converter. ( he switched to M6 for comparison )


So that makes you 411RWHP locked. give or take

QUOTE BELOW


Most don't like giving numbers on autos. They can very widely and when unlocked stalls are added to the mix the numbers get real crazy...Autos are set frictional loss (like a manual) but the also very output depending on converter % loss (when unlocked). When I converted my manual over to auto, I lost about 10 rwhp (converter locked). Converter unlocked, I lost 30 more (total of 40 over manual). I also lost 3-4 miles an hour in trap speed verifying the dyno numbers. Now, if I had a huge stall in their (mine was a small 3600) then my horse power would have dynoed lower with even more % loss on the dyno, but trapped the same due to more average horse power. One guy over at CZ28 had his big hp combo dynoed on engine dyno, then after adding Turbo 400 thru loose stall.....He lost 18% (dynojet SAE corrected). So, it's a number I use if your just guessing % on a unlocked stalled car. Numbers can very so widely when 4000 + stalls are added to the mix, that numbers them self become useless. You just need to know your stall manufacture and your combo. Or lock your converter (if you can) and treat like a manual for loss

DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

wow thats crazy how a freakin stall takes ur power away... man that kinda suks... but well at least ur right bout the whole give or take 20-30 hp.. i knew my car was faster then 381 hp feels like, cuz it just pulls like crazy.. by any chance with an ls6 intake plus maybe an underdrive u think my car would perform a lil more aggrestive?? thnks guys btw for ur tuning input it really helps alot.. god bless.

Dennis@SpectacleSolutions

iTrader: (16)

we sell the FAST 92 combo for 1,149.00 plus shipping if you are interested. Thats with an actual FAST tb.

I realize its a large chunk of change but I dont think you will find a better price on this combo anywhere.

let me know if you are interested.

I also have an LS2 intake laying around the shop I can sell. Its in perfect condition and looks new.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

That is a killer price, and DSRCAM I just purchased some parts from spectacle so if you do choose to purchase from them purchase with confidence, that LS2 manifold from what I understand is virtually the same as/or is the same as a LS6. ( correct me if I am wrong on that )

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

absolutely it will, the pulley if you get a low amount of overdrive is a win/win, you lose parasitic draw and if you dont go to small you dont underdrive the components too much to where they dont work.

and the LS6 intake is a big bang for buck on any motor, its even a big improvement for guys with stock engines so yours with big cam and ported heads would be an even bigger improvement.



but remember this a lot of converters out there can NOT handle the WOT during lock up, as for yours if it will?? You will have to check with the manufacturer on that one. If I remember right I read that you have a Fuddle, I dont think I would try a WOT run in lockup with a Fuddle, but I do not know anything about their lock up clutches either so I cant really say, I am going to use a Yank Pro series, it can take it for sure.

Eurospec2

iTrader: (2)

That is why dyno numbers mean nothing. Who cares if you dyno higher with a locked converter, does it make you go faster? No

Run the car on the track and see what it can really do.

DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

man u guys are freakin smart, i would to take that fast 90 combo from even that ls2 intake for that matter but money lik always is never round when these deals are up.. haha but yeah ls2 intake flow the same as an ls6 intake?? if by any chances maybe i can take it off ur hands?? just pm a price and maybe a pic, will it line up with a 98 ls1 motor.. but man u guys are freakin intelegient i think thats how u spell it.. but thnks for ya ll knowledge god willing, i get these dang dyno numbers out of my head and focus more on the track... i think the underdrive pulley will be to my advantage cuz i dont have ac in my car, i remove it while i was pulling out the motor so now there not that much power getting robbed.. but looks like the next mods would be..

ls2 intake/ls6 intake
underdrive pulley
subframe connectors
wht u guys think also bout the fipk k&n intake instead of slp lid??? since u guys seen all kinds of cai.. thnks guys..

any other ideas u guys have in mind???

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I believe the LS2 and LS6 are within inconsiderable difference if any at all, Jeff @ Specticle that offered you the intake should know by looking at that LS2, sorry I dont know off the top of my head well enough to confidently tell you 100%. But no worries about not having the money right now, they are ALWAYS on the boards for sell. I wouldn't be too concerned with the underdrive pulley, no BIG advantage just some, I would say 10ish.


If I were you I would do
1....LS6 intake
2....Ported TB ( no need for polished just ported, that is if you dont have that, if you dont "Damian" does them for 60$ it might be 65$ and 2-3 day turn around, look him up.)

3... Subframe connectors, important to keep the car together going straight.
4... Lastly pulley



The fast is bad *** but for its marginal gains I cannot see spending that amount of money unless you are going for every bit of HP you can get with a healthy budget, that is just my opinion and will be how my car is built, with an LS6 intake.

DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

yeah im gonna go with an ls6 intake just gotta find one and save some money also i gotta get a hold of damian for the tb porting, i did mine myself but i know its no where as good as his work so well see wht happens... can u give me a more less est of hp i should be at with a ls6 intake, ported tb, underdrive and possible the k&n fipk cai.. thnks guys again and i know i need to take my lil gurl to the track, i will as soon as im off of these night jobs..