Project V6 Firebird
12-28-2015, 11:16 AM
#381
Update on the injector stuff. I'm getting a killer deal from the owner of Fuel1 on a set of brand new Bosch 0280158227 injectors. These are rated at 36 lb/hr, flow matched and ready to go. I'll have to swap to a newer style connector on the harness, but that's not too bad of an ordeal with how direct plugin adapters are pretty common on the market nowadays.
Otherwise, I'm snowed in for the next few days (not something I'd expect to say here in Texas) so I'll probably brave the cold temps in the garage (currently 26°F outside in the sunlight) and maybe try to bolt a few things together like the front and rear swaybar assembly, test fit a few other items and make some measurements.
Still need to get a nice set of 18" wheels and sell my 17" Speedlines, gonna have to get the tires off of them and clean them up before I post them FS. They might be the only set of the Mistral 6's left in existence, so it's hard to tell how much to list them for...
Otherwise, I'm snowed in for the next few days (not something I'd expect to say here in Texas) so I'll probably brave the cold temps in the garage (currently 26°F outside in the sunlight) and maybe try to bolt a few things together like the front and rear swaybar assembly, test fit a few other items and make some measurements.
Still need to get a nice set of 18" wheels and sell my 17" Speedlines, gonna have to get the tires off of them and clean them up before I post them FS. They might be the only set of the Mistral 6's left in existence, so it's hard to tell how much to list them for...
01-06-2016, 01:06 AM
#382
A little bit of progress tonight. Very cold in the garage but finished the front suspension entirely. I need to go run some errands tomorrow including getting the rotors honed to fit over the hubs.
Shout out to Keith from Fuel1 Injector Services for sending me some high quality injectors after my last fiasco that I had posted before.
Need to run the front brake lines, ABS harness and then install rear swaybar and watts link tomorrow!
CTS-V Two-piece rotors up front, there's more clearance than what you see in the picture. The caliper was just loosely bolted into place, with it level with the upright, it had plenty of clearance. Going to head out to get the rotors honed in the morning...
Shout out to Keith from Fuel1 Injector Services for sending me some high quality injectors after my last fiasco that I had posted before.
Need to run the front brake lines, ABS harness and then install rear swaybar and watts link tomorrow!
CTS-V Two-piece rotors up front, there's more clearance than what you see in the picture. The caliper was just loosely bolted into place, with it level with the upright, it had plenty of clearance. Going to head out to get the rotors honed in the morning...
01-08-2016, 01:29 AM
#383
Well today was the good old birthday and got to spend my day off trying to tie up all the loose ends on the car. Waiting on the last little bits of things here and there.
Got the brake rotor hubs opened up by a local shop, D&S Machine did them for $20/ea, not bad considering how much it can cost hourly on for general work in a machine shop.
The 36lb/hr injectors are installed, waiting on the plug-in adapters. I've already spliced in the EV1 connectors from the mismatched "LS6" injectors, and I don't want to do more splicing on this harness if I can avoid it.
Working on installing this Watts link has been an absolute PITA. Bought it used from somebody and apparently they lost the shims that go in the clamshell spot for the axles. Should have just bought it new and never looked back...
Still waiting on wheels...
Still have to do:
• Rear swaybar.
• watts link.
• header mods.
• plugs/wires.
• PCV re-route to catch can.
• UMI Driveshaft loop.
• Fluids and bleed/burp system.
• Wheels/tires.
• Have a local shop tie in the last part of the exhaust.
Got the brake rotor hubs opened up by a local shop, D&S Machine did them for $20/ea, not bad considering how much it can cost hourly on for general work in a machine shop.
The 36lb/hr injectors are installed, waiting on the plug-in adapters. I've already spliced in the EV1 connectors from the mismatched "LS6" injectors, and I don't want to do more splicing on this harness if I can avoid it.
Working on installing this Watts link has been an absolute PITA. Bought it used from somebody and apparently they lost the shims that go in the clamshell spot for the axles. Should have just bought it new and never looked back...
Still waiting on wheels...
Still have to do:
• Rear swaybar.
• watts link.
• header mods.
• plugs/wires.
• PCV re-route to catch can.
• UMI Driveshaft loop.
• Fluids and bleed/burp system.
• Wheels/tires.
• Have a local shop tie in the last part of the exhaust.
01-08-2016, 09:42 PM
#385
Thanks 
Dead day today so I added horsepower mods to my tuning laptop:
Got in some slip on turn downs for my headers until I can get the whole exhaust connected since I'm using a system intended for an LSx powered F-body. dumThis is so it doesn't **** off my PCM for reading it being too lean due to reversion at the collector and killing the car in traffic when it starts dumping fuel... I had it happen a few years ago, lesson learned.
Also so that I can direct the sound more diagonally instead of straight down. No more brown note for me!
Dead day today so I added horsepower mods to my tuning laptop:
Got in some slip on turn downs for my headers until I can get the whole exhaust connected since I'm using a system intended for an LSx powered F-body. dumThis is so it doesn't **** off my PCM for reading it being too lean due to reversion at the collector and killing the car in traffic when it starts dumping fuel... I had it happen a few years ago, lesson learned.
Also so that I can direct the sound more diagonally instead of straight down. No more brown note for me!
01-19-2016, 11:16 PM
#387
Modified the Force Fed Fabs longtube headers to run a different collector design I ordered from Davis Headers. This venturi style collector will help with keeping the exhaust velocity up, something I’m concerned about since this is a higher compression engine. Turn down tips are by Kooks. Needs a few finishing touches like the O2 bungs and retaining springs.
Needless to say, I was a bit concerned about cutting into a very uncommon set of headers, but I went for it anyway.
Test Fit:
Comparison between the two designs:
Turndown tip for driving with the open headers, keeps the O2 sensor a little happier...
Needless to say, I was a bit concerned about cutting into a very uncommon set of headers, but I went for it anyway.
Test Fit:
Comparison between the two designs:
Turndown tip for driving with the open headers, keeps the O2 sensor a little happier...
01-21-2016, 10:53 AM
#388
Headers should be completed today, excited to see them. Can't believe this is getting so close.
Waiting on axle tube shims for the watts link, need to do the pcv catch can mod, top off the fluids, bleed the brakes/clutch lines and get it ready.
Wheels come in tomorrow, oh yeah forgot to mention that. I'll post pics when they come in. I really dig them, kind of a mix between a Z06 Spyder wheel and the CTS-V monoblocks.
Waiting on axle tube shims for the watts link, need to do the pcv catch can mod, top off the fluids, bleed the brakes/clutch lines and get it ready.
Wheels come in tomorrow, oh yeah forgot to mention that. I'll post pics when they come in. I really dig them, kind of a mix between a Z06 Spyder wheel and the CTS-V monoblocks.
01-21-2016, 03:14 PM
#389
Teching In
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Very cool build.
Maybe I missed it - what's the compression ratio on the new motor?
My Cometic gaskets are weeping a bit also; you went to something different on the new motor?....gotta replace them when it warms up.
Maybe I missed it - what's the compression ratio on the new motor?
My Cometic gaskets are weeping a bit also; you went to something different on the new motor?....gotta replace them when it warms up.
01-21-2016, 09:11 PM
#390
11:1 Static, ~9.5:1 Dynamic Compression.
1) Did you use head studs or head bolts? IIRC, you're supposed to also use teflon paste around any of the bolts/studs going into the water jacket. The coolant will slowly leak up through the threads and elsewhere.
2) If the block/heads aren't the right RA of 50 or better as well as making sure they are true.
3) Some of the old turbo Buick guys still have issues, as well as some of the 3800 guys. There are to different things I had to do which are old Buick tricks.
a) Pulled apart the layers after drilling out the rivets, cleaned them all off with alcohol and then sprayed it with copper gasket spray.
b) Still getting a little weeping, I added a little bit of what is referred to as "Cadillac Tabs" which is just a coolant sealer that you can still buy through GM, Amazon or others. I think AC Delco has it as PN 3634621.
My Cometic gaskets are weeping a bit also; you went to something different on the new motor?....gotta replace them when it warms up.
2) If the block/heads aren't the right RA of 50 or better as well as making sure they are true.
3) Some of the old turbo Buick guys still have issues, as well as some of the 3800 guys. There are to different things I had to do which are old Buick tricks.
a) Pulled apart the layers after drilling out the rivets, cleaned them all off with alcohol and then sprayed it with copper gasket spray.
b) Still getting a little weeping, I added a little bit of what is referred to as "Cadillac Tabs" which is just a coolant sealer that you can still buy through GM, Amazon or others. I think AC Delco has it as PN 3634621.
01-25-2016, 11:37 AM
#392
Mitch Walraven at Total Engine Service added the O2 bungs and welded on the retention springs to these modified Force Fed Fabs Longtubes. Really nice welds, good placement of the springs and O2 bungs. The pics just don't do it any justice!
01-25-2016, 10:00 PM
#394
These collectors are designed to be slipped on, the old collector design was not quite as clean on the inside as well, so I felt like a change was in order.
Initial cold startup might have a light tick, but once everything is warmed up it is nice and sealed up. Initial inspection showed all collectors sealing up nicely.
Initial cold startup might have a light tick, but once everything is warmed up it is nice and sealed up. Initial inspection showed all collectors sealing up nicely.
01-27-2016, 01:39 AM
#395
Had a productive afternoon, installed the headers, plugs and wires as well as connected other odds and ends. Waiting on a couple fittings so I can do a PCV catch can, taking care of a few loose bits right now.
Slip on turn-downs so it will help keep the O2 sensors a little happier without getting a lot of air reversion back in there and making it dump fuel or not idling right.
While I waited for some stuff to dry, did a test fit with two wheels. I need open end lugs since I am running long ARP wheel studs for racing duty. I know it'll look a whole heck of a lot better once it's on the ground.
Slip on turn-downs so it will help keep the O2 sensors a little happier without getting a lot of air reversion back in there and making it dump fuel or not idling right.
While I waited for some stuff to dry, did a test fit with two wheels. I need open end lugs since I am running long ARP wheel studs for racing duty. I know it'll look a whole heck of a lot better once it's on the ground.
01-29-2016, 11:25 PM
#396
Been busy, had some minor issues crop up but back to full steam ahead!
Started doing my PCV catch can stuff. I've searched high and low for a twist in oil cap that had a fitting that I could route to a catch can. Without really having any luck, I decided to mod the existing oil caps and just make it work.
These are just stamped metal w/ a rivet holding it all together. Well, after only a couple uses, the rivet would work loose in the metal and it would all twist easily. I drilled out the rivet and then used a drill press with a step drill to open up the holes on each individual layer.
Initial test fit with a -10AN fitting, this is the same size line on the catch can I'll be running to.
Next hurdle involved the retaining nut for the AN fitting. This was a bulkhead fitting for fuel tanks, and I got it so I could sandwich everything together cleanly. This nut needs to be ground down to fit inside the neck of the stamped metal cap.
A big friggin pile of aluminum later, the nut is a press-fit inside the neck and used locktite to make sure everything stayed in place after the test fits:
Final product!
I'll post more on the catch can stuff later.
Started doing my PCV catch can stuff. I've searched high and low for a twist in oil cap that had a fitting that I could route to a catch can. Without really having any luck, I decided to mod the existing oil caps and just make it work.
These are just stamped metal w/ a rivet holding it all together. Well, after only a couple uses, the rivet would work loose in the metal and it would all twist easily. I drilled out the rivet and then used a drill press with a step drill to open up the holes on each individual layer.
Initial test fit with a -10AN fitting, this is the same size line on the catch can I'll be running to.
Next hurdle involved the retaining nut for the AN fitting. This was a bulkhead fitting for fuel tanks, and I got it so I could sandwich everything together cleanly. This nut needs to be ground down to fit inside the neck of the stamped metal cap.
A big friggin pile of aluminum later, the nut is a press-fit inside the neck and used locktite to make sure everything stayed in place after the test fits:
Final product!
I'll post more on the catch can stuff later.
02-04-2016, 12:35 AM
#397
Watts link completely installed, took a little bit of fine tuning. I'm glad I had an angle indicator. Following that, I downloaded the old tune to back the timing off and adjust fuel accordingly with the new injectors. I'm blown away that the Optima Redtop was still holding a full charge after sitting in my garage for a year and a half. I've had that battery since ~2010!
Here's hoping I can fire it up tomorrow!
Here's hoping I can fire it up tomorrow!
