PROJECT "UNLEASHED" (My 99' Trans Am)
10-24-2011, 12:02 PM
#82
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No updates as of right now guys. Sorry!
The car is actually being listed for sale, along with my RS.
I hate to sell it, but I have to at least try and sell it. I'm not gonna take a big loss on it though no matter what. I'll keep it if I don't get close to my asking price.
Either way, if it doesn't sell I'll have it ready this spring to hit the streets. I will update this thread as soon as I decide which route I am going!
Phatasp, WOW! That looks amazing brotha. And CONGRATULATIONS on getting that 10 second slip. It feels good doesn't it.
Now you can say I have a 10 second car, and people really look at you like holy $hit. 
I remember the look on peoples face when they asked me how fast my Z was. It was always good to see how people reacted to that. 
Especially when you told them it was a "stock unported 243 headed" ls2 403 stroker.
But anyways, I'm proud of you man. You worked hard for it, and deserve it just as much as the next person.
James
The car is actually being listed for sale, along with my RS.
I hate to sell it, but I have to at least try and sell it. I'm not gonna take a big loss on it though no matter what. I'll keep it if I don't get close to my asking price.
Either way, if it doesn't sell I'll have it ready this spring to hit the streets. I will update this thread as soon as I decide which route I am going!
Phatasp, WOW! That looks amazing brotha. And CONGRATULATIONS on getting that 10 second slip. It feels good doesn't it.
Now you can say I have a 10 second car, and people really look at you like holy $hit. I remember the look on peoples face when they asked me how fast my Z was. It was always good to see how people reacted to that. Especially when you told them it was a "stock unported 243 headed" ls2 403 stroker. But anyways, I'm proud of you man. You worked hard for it, and deserve it just as much as the next person.
James
10-25-2011, 09:49 PM
#85
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Yeah it does suck man. But It'll all work out in the end.
Can't wait to see how your car does next season. I'm sure your gonna add more goodies to it this winter. Like we always do. lol
Can't wait to see how your car does next season. I'm sure your gonna add more goodies to it this winter. Like we always do. lol
10-26-2011, 10:51 PM
#86
Oh yeah, I,ve already ordered some kooks headers and y pipe, then a little later on bmr/umi kmember and a arms, and meth. Like to see with a little more boost and lighten it up some how close to the 9s I can get. YOU KNOW HOW IT GOES. LOL
10-27-2011, 04:47 PM
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LOL. Oh Yeah! i know...
That's the same goals I have man. low 10's to high 9's when it's all said and done!
I can't wait to see how this winter treats me. I guess I can say it's gonna Make or Brake me. lol
Well, My Car or My Wallet that is.
Good Luck with it man, I hope you drop some more ET next year! It should pick the car up quite a bit with the meth, the lightweight front suspension, and the better exhaust.
That's the same goals I have man. low 10's to high 9's when it's all said and done!
I can't wait to see how this winter treats me. I guess I can say it's gonna Make or Brake me. lol
Well, My Car or My Wallet that is.
Good Luck with it man, I hope you drop some more ET next year! It should pick the car up quite a bit with the meth, the lightweight front suspension, and the better exhaust.
11-06-2011, 04:25 PM
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Gotta get them brakes cleaned up again. They look horrible.
Nothing a Nice Burnout with the linelock OFF won't fix.
Nothing a Nice Burnout with the linelock OFF won't fix.
Last edited by LT1Formula007; 11-06-2011 at 04:42 PM.
11-06-2011, 04:30 PM
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Man you have spent a crap load of loot on that car, It is a real well thought out car for the real world. I appreciate the pic's a lot as I just bought my 00 T.A. WS6 car about 3 weeks ago and don't have a lot of time to work on mine as I always build everyone elses. But that pays for my parts. Just been thinking hard and studing the LS1 and LS1/LT1 site for all the info I can get on the right parts for mine. So watching you great build. Thanks. Rick.
11-06-2011, 04:34 PM
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Heres a few pics of the cage with the interior almost done! And of the MWC SFC's I had Eric Install for me. I need to undercoat the chassis, so please don't mind the surface rust on the underbody. It sat outside in Illinois all winter and it came back with some rust on it. I plan on scraping and grinding and stripping off everything under there, and then undercoating it with POR 15 this winter... 
Playing peek a boo with the MWC SFC's.
It sat outside in Illinois all winter and it came back with some rust on it. I plan on scraping and grinding and stripping off everything under there, and then undercoating it with POR 15 this winter... 
Playing peek a boo with the MWC SFC's.
11-06-2011, 04:50 PM
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Man you have spent a crap load of loot on that car, It is a real well thought out car for the real world. I appreciate the pic's a lot as I just bought my 00 T.A. WS6 car about 3 weeks ago and don't have a lot of time to work on mine as I always build everyone elses. But that pays for my parts. Just been thinking hard and studing the LS1 and LS1/LT1 site for all the info I can get on the right parts for mine. So watching you great build. Thanks. Rick.
Times are getting rough though with the whole home owner thing, but I've decided to keep the car (I had it for sale last month
) and just finish it this winter. So it's definentally going to be out on the road this coming year. I have alot of plans for it, and would really like to compete at the LS Fest and the LSx Shootout in 2012. I completely understand how it goes on building other peoples cars, and using the $ to build your own. I do the same.
Not to mention, wheel and deal with parts to get better parts.
Good Luck with your build, and feel free to follow along with mine. If you have any questions or need someone elses advice, just ask!
James
11-06-2011, 05:00 PM
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I am used to building the Hell out of old school muscle cars and Mudracers which has always been my calling (to many projects, no one will leave me alone, Haha) but now that I have my new school muscle I am wanting to jump right in and build mine, but going to figure what really works and what is a waste of time. I was looking at the subframe connectors, I can build my own easy, but who makes the trans to diff torque bar, I could improve mine but yours looks way better and stronger than building one. Also I have 3.42 gears, do I need adifferent carrier to go up to 3.70 or lower, (4.10). Man I sure love that hood, very, very nice.
11-06-2011, 05:34 PM
#96
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Yeah LSx Cars are my passion. I love them so much! I usually work on about 2-3 a week, other than mine. lol
But I don't ever get much time to work on mine anymore unfortionentally.
The torque arm was actually built along with my rearend. It's a custom fabricated 9 inch rearend that Eric at www.midwestchassis.com offers as a complete bolt in kit. He has many different options and his products are all top notch. He can actually build you a torque arm for your car with the stock rearend, and mount it to the chassis for improved traction. Or build 1 to mount into the stock location. He offers a relocated trq. arm as well to take it off the transmission. The stock trq. arm puts alot of added stress on the transmissions tailshaft. Thats why I mainly chose to have 1 built to mount on my chassis instead of the trans.
The rearend and the suspension components that I had him build for me, I am confident I will NEVER need to replace. He builds them so strong, and so nice, that I would never look into any other suspension parts for my car. I'm very pleased with MWC. They are the best in my book. Hands Down!
I'm actually waiting on my Front Tubular K-member from them, along with some custom "save your *** bars", just in case the car wants to lift the front wheels. I don't wanna damage the oil pan and/or headers if it comes down too hard.
Do a quick search and you'll find lots of info about MWC.
As far as the stock 10 bolt rearend, they are weak. But many people including myself have ran some good track times with them, but some people tend to break them with Stock horsepower. I've managed to run high 10's and low 11's consistently with a stock 3.42 rearend out of a 6 speed car. The auto cars only came with 2.73 and 3.23 rearends. 93 6 speed cars had 3.23's and 94-02 6 speed cars all came with 3.42's.
If you plan on changing the rear gears, you can go with anything from 2.73 to 4.56's with the stock rearend. Maybe even higher numerical gears... 5.xx But I have yet to see anyone running anything higher than 4.56's. They arent needed. IMHO, an "automatic transmission" street car does great with 3.70's in a 9 inch or 3.73's in a stock 10 bolt rearend. And a 6 speed car does Great with 4.10's in a 10 Bolt or 4.11's in a 9 inch rearend. But thats my honest oppinion. And it also depends on your setup, a turbo car will like lower numerical nuimber gears such as 3.23's or 3.42's. Where as NA or Supercharged cars like the bigger numerical number gears.
But I don't ever get much time to work on mine anymore unfortionentally.
The torque arm was actually built along with my rearend. It's a custom fabricated 9 inch rearend that Eric at www.midwestchassis.com offers as a complete bolt in kit. He has many different options and his products are all top notch. He can actually build you a torque arm for your car with the stock rearend, and mount it to the chassis for improved traction. Or build 1 to mount into the stock location. He offers a relocated trq. arm as well to take it off the transmission. The stock trq. arm puts alot of added stress on the transmissions tailshaft. Thats why I mainly chose to have 1 built to mount on my chassis instead of the trans.
The rearend and the suspension components that I had him build for me, I am confident I will NEVER need to replace.
He builds them so strong, and so nice, that I would never look into any other suspension parts for my car. I'm very pleased with MWC. They are the best in my book. Hands Down! I'm actually waiting on my Front Tubular K-member from them, along with some custom "save your *** bars", just in case the car wants to lift the front wheels. I don't wanna damage the oil pan and/or headers if it comes down too hard.
Do a quick search and you'll find lots of info about MWC.
As far as the stock 10 bolt rearend, they are weak. But many people including myself have ran some good track times with them, but some people tend to break them with Stock horsepower.
I've managed to run high 10's and low 11's consistently with a stock 3.42 rearend out of a 6 speed car. The auto cars only came with 2.73 and 3.23 rearends. 93 6 speed cars had 3.23's and 94-02 6 speed cars all came with 3.42's. If you plan on changing the rear gears, you can go with anything from 2.73 to 4.56's with the stock rearend. Maybe even higher numerical gears... 5.xx But I have yet to see anyone running anything higher than 4.56's. They arent needed. IMHO, an "automatic transmission" street car does great with 3.70's in a 9 inch or 3.73's in a stock 10 bolt rearend. And a 6 speed car does Great with 4.10's in a 10 Bolt or 4.11's in a 9 inch rearend. But thats my honest oppinion. And it also depends on your setup, a turbo car will like lower numerical nuimber gears such as 3.23's or 3.42's. Where as NA or Supercharged cars like the bigger numerical number gears.
11-06-2011, 05:57 PM
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Thanks much for the info, good to talk to someone with experiance on these cars. I just love tp build hp, always set everything up perfect for the use it will see, try to piece it all together like a puzzle and think of the future use to for a continual build as most things always are. I have lots of time to plan mine out as my winter is full of engine builds for now, plus I recently bought my twin girls a 64 Fairlane Sport coupe for a again future build, so more parts to collect. I just love the old stuff, but am really thinking the LS series is just kick *** cool, and I can build and weld anything but have to sit back and learn and plan it out, man LOTS to learn too, So mine has prob 3.23's with an auto not 3.42's, fine I will go 3.73's till I blow it up. Not sure on stall. Just thinking that I have 133,000 miles on my motor so don't know if I should upgrade cam and intake or rebuild it. It has over 60psi and about 35/40 at idle for oil pr. So prob alright, see not fimilar with these engines yet. I will be watching and listening. Think I will build my own exhaust too, have a plan. Thanks again.
11-06-2011, 07:46 PM
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On your rpo code sticker, (they are usually in the glove box attached to the glove box lid) Look for gu2 or gu3. gu2 is 2.73's and gu3 is 3.23's. that's another way to tell. Or pull the cover and count the teeth, and divide the bigger number by the smaller number and see whats the ratio.
Also, if it's a 2.73 geared rearend, you"ll need to make sure when you buy a gear set that it's for a 2 series carrier rearend. The 3.23's and 3.42's had a 3 series carrier Diff in them. But the 2.73's had the smaller 2 series carrier. The 2 series carrier kit will have extra shims and etc. to make the new gears work properly. Just another tip for you.
Also, The oil pressure your stating is good for these engines. I personally would cam it even with that mileage... I did a cam swap on a friends car, 2001 WS6 with 156k miles on it and it put down 390 rwhp "Cam Only" LS1, with stock LS6 Intake, and with the addition of headers and a catback exhaust.
Ran hard as hell too. It amazed me bc the cam was only a 230/230 56x"/58x" 112 lsa
Your cam, and stall selection has alot to do with the use of the car. If you need any help I'll be more than happy to. Or get you in touch with the right people. As for the converter choice... Don't go cheap. Yank, Vigilante (Precision Industries), Circle D, TCI, Etc. are all very nice stall converters. But just do not skimp out on them. They can make or break a setup.
And again, any help I can offer... I will.
Also, if it's a 2.73 geared rearend, you"ll need to make sure when you buy a gear set that it's for a 2 series carrier rearend. The 3.23's and 3.42's had a 3 series carrier Diff in them. But the 2.73's had the smaller 2 series carrier.
The 2 series carrier kit will have extra shims and etc. to make the new gears work properly. Just another tip for you.Also, The oil pressure your stating is good for these engines. I personally would cam it even with that mileage... I did a cam swap on a friends car, 2001 WS6 with 156k miles on it and it put down 390 rwhp "Cam Only" LS1, with stock LS6 Intake, and with the addition of headers and a catback exhaust.
Ran hard as hell too.
It amazed me bc the cam was only a 230/230 56x"/58x" 112 lsa Your cam, and stall selection has alot to do with the use of the car. If you need any help I'll be more than happy to. Or get you in touch with the right people. As for the converter choice... Don't go cheap. Yank, Vigilante (Precision Industries), Circle D, TCI, Etc. are all very nice stall converters. But just do not skimp out on them. They can make or break a setup.
And again, any help I can offer... I will.
11-07-2011, 12:03 AM
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Wow you have a lot of good info my new friend, I am glad for the stuff you know, been a big help already. As for the glove box sticker, none at all, so heading for the diff when I get a chance. Sounds good on cam for my mileage but should regear first so I can match the cam to gear ratio and rpm. Do you think the LS6 intake makes all that much hp difference over the LS1, plus according to what I read I will need to do a tune, not with gears, maybe not cam but with the intake for sure because of the EGR delete. Which means an HP tuner by the sound of it if I am correct. What is your opinion on all this.
