1987 TA GTA cranks but doesnt fire
02-05-2012, 04:57 PM
#21
You must not be getting enough fuel pressure. Get a can of carb cleaner and spray it into the intake tract and crank the car. If it runs for a second then you are not getting fuel.
Can you tell me where the intake track is? Thanks and I will try this next.
Go and get a fuel pressure gauge from the store and screw it on the valve on the fuel rail and just turn the key on.
Do these 2 things in order first. Only do the second thing if the 1st thing does what I just said. Report back and let us know.
All we are trying to do here is find what of the 3 things an engine needs to run that you don't have .
1.Fuel
2.Spark
3.Air
Can you tell me where the intake track is? Thanks and I will try this next.
Go and get a fuel pressure gauge from the store and screw it on the valve on the fuel rail and just turn the key on.
Do these 2 things in order first. Only do the second thing if the 1st thing does what I just said. Report back and let us know.
All we are trying to do here is find what of the 3 things an engine needs to run that you don't have .
1.Fuel
2.Spark
3.Air
Can you tell me where the intake track is? Thanks and I will try this next.
02-05-2012, 06:28 PM
#23
Sorry if I might sound like a wise-***, I'm not trying to be one but it sounds like you might need a friend who's more mechanically inclined in auto repairs.
But I do applaud and encourage your interest in trying to fix it yourself. Perhaps a Chilton's repair guide would be a good investment for you.
The intake tract is the plastic and rubber ducting that leads from the air filter box to the throttle body. The throttle body is the entrant thing on the left here with butterfly flaps in it just above the radiator hose:
But I do applaud and encourage your interest in trying to fix it yourself. Perhaps a Chilton's repair guide would be a good investment for you.
The intake tract is the plastic and rubber ducting that leads from the air filter box to the throttle body. The throttle body is the entrant thing on the left here with butterfly flaps in it just above the radiator hose:
02-05-2012, 11:04 PM
#25
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The tpi motors could be very finicky if the cold start injector wasn't working. I forgot to plug mine back in once and it took me a while to find the problem. Although, it did eventually start without it.
02-06-2012, 08:06 AM
#27
Thanks for all your suggestions but I cant figure out why it was working then all of a sudden it wasnt. Nothing was done to the car when it was working. One day it just quite firing then all this troubleshooting began.
02-06-2012, 10:35 AM
#28
Really man, you might want to get someone a little more mechanically inclined to take a look at it. Going thru the internet is kinda hard and we have thrown out all the suggestions to why your car won't start. Sometimes it is better to have your hands on it. If you were close by I would take a look at it for you but I don't know where in the country you live.
If you post your location maybe some of the guys here might be local to you and give you a helping hand in taking a look at this for you.
If you post your location maybe some of the guys here might be local to you and give you a helping hand in taking a look at this for you.
02-06-2012, 04:30 PM
#30
If you're not sure where and how many fuses there are, stop everything right now and go get that Chilton's book. Also, the vehicle's owner's manual will show all the fuses and locations.
I'm not understanding that if it was already suggested that you check the fuses, why would you then ask us if you should check the fuses?
02-06-2012, 09:57 PM
#31
Ive checked the fuses under the dash and they are fine...my 88 service manual shows jack for fuses in the engine bay. I was curious to know where they are before I have to disconnect every connection to see if theres an internal fuse hidden.
02-12-2012, 10:59 PM
#33
Quick question..when you are trying to start the car..does it even sound like its close to starting? As in does it semi catch and almost fire up,or does it just crank really fast?
My experience with tpi Ill tell you this...very picky motors and when you parked it months ago,did you put any type of fuel stabilizer to prevent things from gumming up?
Here is a tip for you to remember with most fuel injected cars that sit for awhile.Turn the key on for 3 seconds then back off,wait 5 second and repeat key on then off.Do this 3 times to fully prime the system if for whatever reason a regulator has failed you should have enough fuel in the lines now to start for a second or 2.Try starting the car and crank it for 3 seconds..if it doesnt start yet..hold the gas pedal All the way down while cranking for 2-3 seconds(this is called clear flood test for the ecm) then take your foot off the gas and keep cranking..it might show some sign of life.At this point it will be a cat n mouse game of feathering the gas pedal while cranking the motor over as if it were a carb...easiest way to explain it.
Also when you are cranking the motor over..does your oil pressure gauge show pressure?If it reads 0 while trying to start it..guess what..it will not start.The ecm will not fire the injectors on 0 oil pressure.Check all spark plugs..not just one,my old tpi would not start if 3 or more were fouled..it would just sputter.Good luck..if everything was working before..it will be a "simple" but stupid fix that will be sometimes hard to find.
My experience with tpi Ill tell you this...very picky motors and when you parked it months ago,did you put any type of fuel stabilizer to prevent things from gumming up?
Here is a tip for you to remember with most fuel injected cars that sit for awhile.Turn the key on for 3 seconds then back off,wait 5 second and repeat key on then off.Do this 3 times to fully prime the system if for whatever reason a regulator has failed you should have enough fuel in the lines now to start for a second or 2.Try starting the car and crank it for 3 seconds..if it doesnt start yet..hold the gas pedal All the way down while cranking for 2-3 seconds(this is called clear flood test for the ecm) then take your foot off the gas and keep cranking..it might show some sign of life.At this point it will be a cat n mouse game of feathering the gas pedal while cranking the motor over as if it were a carb...easiest way to explain it.
Also when you are cranking the motor over..does your oil pressure gauge show pressure?If it reads 0 while trying to start it..guess what..it will not start.The ecm will not fire the injectors on 0 oil pressure.Check all spark plugs..not just one,my old tpi would not start if 3 or more were fouled..it would just sputter.Good luck..if everything was working before..it will be a "simple" but stupid fix that will be sometimes hard to find.
02-17-2012, 01:44 PM
#34
Quick question..when you are trying to start the car..does it even sound like its close to starting? As in does it semi catch and almost fire up,or does it just crank really fast?
My experience with tpi Ill tell you this...very picky motors and when you parked it months ago,did you put any type of fuel stabilizer to prevent things from gumming up?
Here is a tip for you to remember with most fuel injected cars that sit for awhile.Turn the key on for 3 seconds then back off,wait 5 second and repeat key on then off.Do this 3 times to fully prime the system if for whatever reason a regulator has failed you should have enough fuel in the lines now to start for a second or 2.Try starting the car and crank it for 3 seconds..if it doesnt start yet..hold the gas pedal All the way down while cranking for 2-3 seconds(this is called clear flood test for the ecm) then take your foot off the gas and keep cranking..it might show some sign of life.At this point it will be a cat n mouse game of feathering the gas pedal while cranking the motor over as if it were a carb...easiest way to explain it.
Also when you are cranking the motor over..does your oil pressure gauge show pressure?If it reads 0 while trying to start it..guess what..it will not start.The ecm will not fire the injectors on 0 oil pressure.Check all spark plugs..not just one,my old tpi would not start if 3 or more were fouled..it would just sputter.Good luck..if everything was working before..it will be a "simple" but stupid fix that will be sometimes hard to find.
My experience with tpi Ill tell you this...very picky motors and when you parked it months ago,did you put any type of fuel stabilizer to prevent things from gumming up?
Here is a tip for you to remember with most fuel injected cars that sit for awhile.Turn the key on for 3 seconds then back off,wait 5 second and repeat key on then off.Do this 3 times to fully prime the system if for whatever reason a regulator has failed you should have enough fuel in the lines now to start for a second or 2.Try starting the car and crank it for 3 seconds..if it doesnt start yet..hold the gas pedal All the way down while cranking for 2-3 seconds(this is called clear flood test for the ecm) then take your foot off the gas and keep cranking..it might show some sign of life.At this point it will be a cat n mouse game of feathering the gas pedal while cranking the motor over as if it were a carb...easiest way to explain it.
Also when you are cranking the motor over..does your oil pressure gauge show pressure?If it reads 0 while trying to start it..guess what..it will not start.The ecm will not fire the injectors on 0 oil pressure.Check all spark plugs..not just one,my old tpi would not start if 3 or more were fouled..it would just sputter.Good luck..if everything was working before..it will be a "simple" but stupid fix that will be sometimes hard to find.
I just got back from a business trip so I will try this next...Thanks
02-18-2012, 01:03 PM
#35
Quick question..when you are trying to start the car..does it even sound like its close to starting? As in does it semi catch and almost fire up,or does it just crank really fast?
My experience with tpi Ill tell you this...very picky motors and when you parked it months ago,did you put any type of fuel stabilizer to prevent things from gumming up?
Here is a tip for you to remember with most fuel injected cars that sit for awhile.Turn the key on for 3 seconds then back off,wait 5 second and repeat key on then off.Do this 3 times to fully prime the system if for whatever reason a regulator has failed you should have enough fuel in the lines now to start for a second or 2.Try starting the car and crank it for 3 seconds..if it doesnt start yet..hold the gas pedal All the way down while cranking for 2-3 seconds(this is called clear flood test for the ecm) then take your foot off the gas and keep cranking..it might show some sign of life.At this point it will be a cat n mouse game of feathering the gas pedal while cranking the motor over as if it were a carb...easiest way to explain it.
Also when you are cranking the motor over..does your oil pressure gauge show pressure?If it reads 0 while trying to start it..guess what..it will not start.The ecm will not fire the injectors on 0 oil pressure.Check all spark plugs..not just one,my old tpi would not start if 3 or more were fouled..it would just sputter.Good luck..if everything was working before..it will be a "simple" but stupid fix that will be sometimes hard to find.
My experience with tpi Ill tell you this...very picky motors and when you parked it months ago,did you put any type of fuel stabilizer to prevent things from gumming up?
Here is a tip for you to remember with most fuel injected cars that sit for awhile.Turn the key on for 3 seconds then back off,wait 5 second and repeat key on then off.Do this 3 times to fully prime the system if for whatever reason a regulator has failed you should have enough fuel in the lines now to start for a second or 2.Try starting the car and crank it for 3 seconds..if it doesnt start yet..hold the gas pedal All the way down while cranking for 2-3 seconds(this is called clear flood test for the ecm) then take your foot off the gas and keep cranking..it might show some sign of life.At this point it will be a cat n mouse game of feathering the gas pedal while cranking the motor over as if it were a carb...easiest way to explain it.
Also when you are cranking the motor over..does your oil pressure gauge show pressure?If it reads 0 while trying to start it..guess what..it will not start.The ecm will not fire the injectors on 0 oil pressure.Check all spark plugs..not just one,my old tpi would not start if 3 or more were fouled..it would just sputter.Good luck..if everything was working before..it will be a "simple" but stupid fix that will be sometimes hard to find.
Okay...I just gave this suggestion a try and its still a no go. The oil pressure shows 0 throughout the process so I guess thats the issue or one of the issues. What should I be doing next? Another member suggested that I scan for codes. I dont have a scanner so I jumped the connector pins and no codes were visible/readable on my car.
02-18-2012, 01:05 PM
#36
[QUOTE=Redbull87;15957591]My experience with tpi Ill tell you this...very picky motors and when you parked it months ago,did you put any type of fuel stabilizer to prevent things from gumming up?
Yes I did add a stabilizer prior to parking it.
Yes I did add a stabilizer prior to parking it.
03-01-2012, 05:32 PM
#38
I have an Actron CP9145 scanner now which I just hooked up to the car. It says that a connection is required but it is hooked up. Does this connector under the dash run to the computer? If so, would one assume that the computer is shot and that is why I am not getting any readings? Would the computer be the culprit for all my problems that i am having? Thanks
03-02-2012, 08:55 AM
#39
In the factory service manual there are tips about cranks but no start.
Find that page and follow the tests in the flow chart.
Learning to use the factory service manual sucks but it is well worth the time spent once you figure it out.
Find that page and follow the tests in the flow chart.
Learning to use the factory service manual sucks but it is well worth the time spent once you figure it out.
Last edited by TTOP350; 03-04-2012 at 09:46 AM.
03-02-2012, 11:45 AM
#40
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Does the fp prime? Hows the pressure? are the plugs wet? With key on engine off press down on the shrader valve...does it shoot out gas? Prime it again and with key off does it shoot gas?