MoparSpeed

Hey guys, just recently signed up here, hope to be more active soon.
I own an '09 Challenger R/T and I'm currently looking for a car to get my younger brother, we wan't something used but fairly quick so he can go to the track with me. We found a WS-6 Trans-Am with 104K for just under $10K, what price should I be aiming for here? any advice would be great.

He definitely deserves something nice (dual enrolled in college, 4.0 student), but as a first car, I'm not gonna buy him something new, wan't him to learn the ins and outs of it, how to do basic repairs, oil changes, etc..

He loves the Trans-Am, and I know it would whoop my R/T all over the place but I'm totally OK with that, sibling rivalry is fun, and the bolt on wars would commence.

I'm a Mopar guy but if I had to choose a second brand it would be Pontiac, I absolutely love them.

He want's something he can take to car shows and the track with me. Plus ANY american muscle is better than him driving an eco box, luckily I influence him there

Anything in particular I should look out for? Major issues I need to know about? He really loves the car and it's in my price range, just need to make sure it's mechanically stable. I know the LS1 is a fantastic engine. Again any advice on this purchase would be highly appreciated.
Thanks

02v8ta

iTrader: (8)

Stock or modded ? Auto or manual? The mileage seems about right. Does the seller seem like he's selling for a legit reason? Condition of the car? These will all effect people's opinion on it. And also where you live. Generally a ls1 can go as low as 5k up towards 18k for the crazies depending on location.

If the windows don't work, common problem. If the blinkers don't work, common. If the headlights act up, common and simple issues with these cars. Pay more attention to how it drives and the engine sounds. Any service records he can show you. Make sure the rear doesn't make any noise.

MoparSpeed

Looks stock to me, but I'm not too familiar with common mods on these cars, what should I be looking for? It's the 4 speed Auto, haven't been able to test drive it yet, should be going friday to take a closer look.

02v8ta

iTrader: (8)

If you're able to get or have any pictures of the engine bay there might be give always. Usually people like to add a catback exhaust, aftermarket air lid /cold air intake and go from there. The auto isn't bad (with mods) if you guys are going to put it to the track. Be warned they're weak rears stock adding suspension upgrades or gears/ stall will only increase that risk. Don't know how involved you plan on getting into it.

MoparSpeed

Not to involved really, it's just gonna be for fun, no serious competition.

Here's a pic of the engine bay


We aren't gonna add anything crazy, how hard is it to beef up the rear?

It'll be stock for a long while, since it can beat my car I'm sure he'll be more than satisfied.

skidooingit

Look for stuff like exhaust mods, intake mods, suspension mods. Stuff like oil leaks and body work a carfax would be good to run also u can run the vin at ur local dmv and the dealer as well to find out as much about the history of the car as possible. An all stock non modded car thats clean would be a good place to start. Being your brother are new to the fbody u should say away from something modded as it could be a can of worms and a money pit to fix. As for other things to check would be a good look under the car for any rust leaks frame damage. Post some details and pics of the car and take ur time shopping around there r some really nice fbodys to be had at that price.

skidooingit

Also take the car for a long ride city highway also it might be a good investment to have a good shop look at the car as they will give u a professional look. Also checking the computer for codes and readiness monitor/emission status would be a good idea. Engine bay looks clean but looks can be deceiving. .. what is the sellers story.. how long has he owned it... why is he selling, with a used car the more u know before u buy the better.

MoparSpeed

It is at a dealership, not a private sell, I'll take some pictures and have my own personal mechanic look at it before the buy, so far it looks to be in pretty good shape, paint is nice, no dings or scratches, engine bay is clean like you said. I will get a good look underneath for any leaks/rust and get a carfax if possible.

Are there any specific problems I should look out for?, I saw the headlights and blinker malfunctions were listed earlier.

02v8ta

iTrader: (8)

That pic you posted looks stock from what can be seen. It looks clean as well. The coolant reservoir cap is missing in that pic though far bottom left. It's 2$ if it happens to be missing.

Check all the vacuum lines around the intake and throttle body they're common to crack and break down, still simple fix. Make sure you drive the car up to operating temp, the temp holds and heat works. All could be signs of something off in the cooling especially If that thing as been sitting with dexcool in it. That's another topic though just make sure the coolant doesn't look like rusty globs.
As far modding. I'd do a cold air intake with a catback exhaust first and you'll see a decent gain from that alone.

MoparSpeed

another pic of the engine bay

I have a question, are these T-Tops notorious for leaking like the IROC-Z?

wjayg

I purchased a 1998 Trans Am w/ 81K miles in Sept 2012 and w/no WS6 and I paid $8995
Did radiator flush, tranny filter and fluid change, spark plugs, rear shocks upper and lower hoses and all belts, rear axle fluid change and so far I have less than $400 into her and that includes a spare key, 4 book gm service manual and front and rear GM brake pads-spares.

Drove her down to Salt Lake City from Boise month after I bought at 75-80 mph I got 25.4 MPG

wjayg

oh here is a pic

NC01TA

Not many posters are disagreeing with the price, but I am. It is too high IMO for a 6 figure mileage car unless it was meticulousy maintained with all records and with mostly highway miles. Too many repairs are on the horizon (from the a/c to just about anything) and you don't want to be into the car for too much $$$ unless it is kept for many years. Only you can answer that question. Is your brother likely to keep it for many years or try to sell it in a year or two??
Try to get the car for $8,000, maybe $8,500 if necessary, which allows for some repairs over time. You don't want to be $12,000 into the car in a year or so, which will then have well over 100,000 miles on it, and then need to sell it. You might get $7,000 - $7,500 for it. Ouch!!
You also want your brother to enjoy the ownership experience. If this is the car, then fine, but don't overpay. Sweet lower mileage LS1 examples are out there for that $12,000 (and less) that need no serious repair work. I have no knowledge on these cars but they are currently on www.autotrader.com and there are many other examples:
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...Index=25&Log=0
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...gIndex=1&Log=0
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...gIndex=6&Log=0

MoparSpeed

I agree, I'm definitely going to try and talk the price down into the $8k range sticker is right at $9800 so with the miles I don't think that should be too hard. You mention a lot of repairs on the horizon like the A/C, would you mind elaborating on this? do these cars not last very long after 100K? What is the usual mileage for one to crap out, if it is maintained averagely.

NC01TA

Just speaking in general terms about all cars with 100,000+ miles. Our LS1 cars are no different. Window motors, headlight gears, the list is endless... I mention a/c because the cost is so expensive to fix them if you can't do it yourself. Things just start going south as the mileage and use increases, and especially after 6 figures show on the odometer. Some high mileage cars are just wonderful but most will start having issues of some type. As far as the drivetrain goes there are quite a few owners that get 150,000 - 200,000 miles on their machines. Those are obviously well maintained cars since they left the showroom. This is where the going gets tough as a buyer. If you can't get the maintenance records, it becomes a crap shoot, so it is best to limit your liabilities and get a lower mileage example, preferably 'stock' with not too many owners.

metalmilitia606

iTrader: (8)

Not doing anything except changing the oil, I would say most examples will last to about 150k or so before something blows. The engine is good for at least 200k the transmission and everything else will go first.

MoparSpeed

That's good to know, I'm gonna make an effort to get the maintenance records, and If I can't at the least I'm gonna go over everything with a fine brush and get a full inspection by my personal mechanic.

The car will be taken care of with us, that's one thing I stress. It won't be driven hard (my brother is extremely timid) and it will be respected. It might go to the track once every 3-4 months, mostly he want's to put it in shows with me.

I can handle most repairs myself and if it's anything huge, I have friends who are mechanics for a living and would cut me a great deal labor wise.

I've heard about the rear ends being weak, is their anything that can solve this problem short of a full swap?

EDIT: Iim looking at the carfax here, it has 7 service records available, 1 owner, no reported problems. It's looking like it was well taken care of, but will still give it the 1 over.

WS6-R

iTrader: (1)

All I am going to say is if you find the right one...meaning with your desirable color combo and upgrades and well maintain then expect to pay close to their asking price if is justify.
It's been more than 10 years and things deteriorate .
I rather get a 100k car that most likely everything its been replaced than getting a 40-60k with leaks/flat tires/no AC/bad fuel pumps/old belts.....etc.... among others but the bottom line a WS6 is a car many would like in their garage and that's why their value stays right about 10k -/+ depending on condition but every seller/owner is different.

Look for the right one

And if you paying top dollar make sure is a real WS6.
Check the code...check the code

MoparSpeed

The code on the door correct? If it's a real WS6 it will have it inside the door, that's the only way to be completely sure it's not badged up?

MoparSpeed

Alright, I confirmed that it is an actual WS6 by taking a look at the RPO sticker. Is $8K a price that would be wise bargaining too? I think it's what I'm gonna aim for fingers crossed.

Mod wise, if I've got it right, the basics are Lid, L/T's, Y pipe, Catback. These cars are super cost friendly to mod as opposed to my challenger.