small garage WS6 LS3 418 build
#21
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YES I DID THE FUEL ACCESS DOOR AND PROUD OF IT
So...when you do your LS3 swap the best thing I found when you relocate your MAP up front in the LS3 intake manifold it to remove the gromet and buy 1/4 fuel hose, cut it to lenght like in the picture, apply sil-glyde as a lubricant to slide into manifold. It fits perfect and there is no problems when your done or messy silicone hack job.
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First time out of the garage
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1.3 miles on the new setup
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Uner the hood is a little busy and will clean it up when I have a lot of time on my hands, but for now this will do. I also forgot to mention after extensive research on coolant vapor lines and having no success on finding something good I went with the Kurt Urban setup which is a very nice setup. Just need to find a way to clean up the engine bay.
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The PCV system was the next hardest decision to make. After lots of reading and research I found nothing worth doing. So I talked to a buddy who has been there and done that. My PCV system is from each valve cover to a catch can you see by the A/C dryer and that is it! So simple and yet effective. I really like it because no oil what so ever will enter into intake which equals no carbon build up and messy ****. I plugged intake side and valley cover. I see no problems with this setup and think it will do just fine, I just have to change oil more frequently which I do anyway, let me know what you guys think of that setup. I sent computer to get start up tune, used Joe Gibbs break in oil for first 250 miles, then got street tune all dialed in with speed density. Changed oil and put Castrol GTX 10w-30 and now have 600 miles on her. Oil pressure is around 50 and everything is perfect with the engine. Lots of torque!
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YES I DID THE FUEL ACCESS DOOR AND PROUD OF IT
So...when you do your LS3 swap the best thing I found when you relocate your MAP up front in the LS3 intake manifold it to remove the gromet and buy 1/4 fuel hose, cut it to lenght like in the picture, apply sil-glyde as a lubricant to slide into manifold. It fits perfect and there is no problems when your done or messy silicone hack job.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
First time out of the garage
[IMG][/IMG]
1.3 miles on the new setup
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Uner the hood is a little busy and will clean it up when I have a lot of time on my hands, but for now this will do. I also forgot to mention after extensive research on coolant vapor lines and having no success on finding something good I went with the Kurt Urban setup which is a very nice setup. Just need to find a way to clean up the engine bay.
[IMG][/IMG]
The PCV system was the next hardest decision to make. After lots of reading and research I found nothing worth doing. So I talked to a buddy who has been there and done that. My PCV system is from each valve cover to a catch can you see by the A/C dryer and that is it! So simple and yet effective. I really like it because no oil what so ever will enter into intake which equals no carbon build up and messy ****. I plugged intake side and valley cover. I see no problems with this setup and think it will do just fine, I just have to change oil more frequently which I do anyway, let me know what you guys think of that setup. I sent computer to get start up tune, used Joe Gibbs break in oil for first 250 miles, then got street tune all dialed in with speed density. Changed oil and put Castrol GTX 10w-30 and now have 600 miles on her. Oil pressure is around 50 and everything is perfect with the engine. Lots of torque!
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#22
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Also got a 3.5 inch aluminum drive shaft. And you LS3 guys, the Holley throttle cable bracket is what you will need to do this swap and the only good cheap bracket out there. You will have slack in the throttle cable so at the gas pedal you will need to find a way to get the slack out. What I did was used three zip ties to bring the cable out and it works just fine and have had no issues. The cam I have is perfect and is big enough but has good drivability, in 6th gear at 1500 RPM's I have no cam bucking or surge. At 90mph I'm about 2000 RPM's. Will add some vids later on
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[QUOTE='99REDTA;17658863]How does she drive with all the tubular suspension stuff? I kinda want to do this for my car since the mustang was pretty bad with all of it[/QUOTE
Better then I thought when it comes to noise. I went the poly/Roto joint combo for sound purposes but think I could have went to Roto/Roto and been fine. The pan hard bar is double rod end and front lower control arms are poly/rod end which I thought would have not dampened harsh bumps in the road but it does very well. I needed new bushings for the upper control arms so I just went with tubular w/poly and the ball joints have more pivot for lowered cars. It handles and drives very nice, I have good control and can predict how it will react. I need to finish with the alignment which would help and would like new set of tires and wheels.
Better then I thought when it comes to noise. I went the poly/Roto joint combo for sound purposes but think I could have went to Roto/Roto and been fine. The pan hard bar is double rod end and front lower control arms are poly/rod end which I thought would have not dampened harsh bumps in the road but it does very well. I needed new bushings for the upper control arms so I just went with tubular w/poly and the ball joints have more pivot for lowered cars. It handles and drives very nice, I have good control and can predict how it will react. I need to finish with the alignment which would help and would like new set of tires and wheels.
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Thank you! Alright, so I got a computer back and some updates. Car is put away for another winter but got over 2500 miles on the car and it runs perfect. So I got it dynoed and the results were 566 RWHP and 546 Torque. It most definitely feels like it on the freeway, if I can just get some traction. I was driving around on the stock wheels and 275/45 17's crap tires. Here is a pic of the dyno sheet
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I would be curious to see the results would have been with a dyno tune, but this is street tuned. Speed density tuned. The cam is a 23x 24x .629 .629 114 lsa +2. Running 93 octane and 11.5 compression. Got lots of **** from the cathedral port head guys saying my cam would be to small but I don't think they have dealt with rectangle port much. It has a nice lope at idle but drivability is great. I can drive in 6th at 1200 RPM's with no bucking.
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I would be curious to see the results would have been with a dyno tune, but this is street tuned. Speed density tuned. The cam is a 23x 24x .629 .629 114 lsa +2. Running 93 octane and 11.5 compression. Got lots of **** from the cathedral port head guys saying my cam would be to small but I don't think they have dealt with rectangle port much. It has a nice lope at idle but drivability is great. I can drive in 6th at 1200 RPM's with no bucking.
[IMG][/IMG]
Last edited by MertezWS6; 12-05-2013 at 10:05 PM.
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Thanks for the compliments It feels good to have done most of the work myself and tighten every nut and bolt on the car. Also nice having helped assembling the engine internals. It seems like a very reliable setup. Looking forward to taking it to the track and seeing some numbers next summer. The license plate is just LS3 418 BUT L 4 S 1 3 8. Wanted something most could not figure out and didn't stand out to much... The limo taxi's all have the license plate starting with L and then numbers, maybe they'll think I'm a limo driver lol. So I'm hoping when the budget fits I'd like to get some 17" Weld rts s71 wheels, holy cow those aint cheap. Something similar would be ideal
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Could you let me know how you have your front accesories setup? I am in the middle of my swap, Im going from v6 to a v8 LY6 stroker and am not sure what I am going to do about the accesories.
Last edited by pasadenaman; 12-07-2013 at 09:48 AM.
#40
Thanks for the link.
Bad *** car. Looks REALLY CLEAN. Crazy numbers. All I want for Xmas is YOUR car. LOL
Bad *** car. Looks REALLY CLEAN. Crazy numbers. All I want for Xmas is YOUR car. LOL