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Turn Signal Bulbs

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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 10:16 AM
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Default Turn Signal Bulbs

So I have visited *EVERY* parts store in town. On each shelf the 3357 clear bulbs are always picked clean. Where do you guys buy your bulbs? I see them on ebay, but they are always LED and like $30 for the pair. Any input on these bulbs, price, brand, store would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 10:52 AM
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The stock bulbs will eventually emit so much heat that they will melt the top of the housing, allowing water in, ruining the sockets. Here's what I did: I replaced the housings with new ones, replaced the sockets, and installed LEDs, which are brighter and will not melt the housings.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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Do you need to add a resistor when you do the LED bulbs?

Originally Posted by YellowTA1
The stock bulbs will eventually emit so much heat that they will melt the top of the housing, allowing water in, ruining the sockets. Here's what I did: I replaced the housings with new ones, replaced the sockets, and installed LEDs, which are brighter and will not melt the housings.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by YellowTA1
The stock bulbs will eventually emit so much heat that they will melt the top of the housing, allowing water in, ruining the sockets. Here's what I did: I replaced the housings with new ones, replaced the sockets, and installed LEDs, which are brighter and will not melt the housings.
I am doing this swap on the upcoming weekend. I have already ordered the housings and the leds. Did you have to replace your flasher?
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Brutal Boba Fett
I am doing this swap on the upcoming weekend. I have already ordered the housings and the leds. Did you have to replace your flasher?
oh yes, thanks for bringing that up, you do have to replace the flashers with an electronic flasher to make the signals work correctly, you won't regret the upgrade
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by KK WS6
Do you need to add a resistor when you do the LED bulbs?
no resistor needed, bulbs are plug in and go, drl's work normally as well as the turn signals, have to change the flasher out though
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by KK WS6
So I have visited *EVERY* parts store in town. On each shelf the 3357 clear bulbs are always picked clean.
First off, why are you looking for a 3357 clear. The replacement is a 3157 Amber.


Originally Posted by YellowTA1
The stock bulbs will eventually emit so much heat that they will melt the top of the housing, allowing water in, ruining the sockets. Here's what I did: I replaced the housings with new ones, replaced the sockets, and installed LEDs, which are brighter and will not melt the housings.
Are you talking specifically about T/A's here? This is not an issue with the base and Formula. I'm not sure I've even head about it before on T/A's. Everyone does have charring on the socket, but that's generally superficial.

Everyone also has cracks in the front of the lens from UV and rock damage. Maybe a heat/lens is related to using an overpowered bulb? (Not a 3157.)
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 04:02 PM
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What electronic flasher is this you speak of?

Originally Posted by YellowTA1
no resistor needed, bulbs are plug in and go, drl's work normally as well as the turn signals, have to change the flasher out though
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 04:52 PM
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Yea I've never heard of it melting either. Water getting in through the lens is what I've always seen.
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