KILL*SHOT

HI, yes im looking for lights for my 99, i was just throwing out there that i had bought some 4x6 led lights for my 97 and made them work, but i dont recall what i had done exactly but wanted to try someting similar on the 99.

beernut

I've searched, but not found anything - so here goes. I've replaced the gears with brass ones and everything works great. BUT when the lights close, they don't exactly go down smoothly. They drop about halfway down before closing and it makes a racket. Anyone seen anything similar? The linkage seems to be in good order and the motors and gears are all good.

VIP1

Make sure the housing isn't flexing or partially open.

beernut

As far as I can tell it all looks good, nothing is flexing and it seems to be tight.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Try it with the hood open and compare the two sides.

inspector

Google headlightexperts.com very pricey but they have a led kit for your 99.

VIP1

I just looked. Skip those and stick with what I listed above. Their pics show the wrong housings and those drop-in LEDs won't give a good beam pattern.

KILL*SHOT

I think I'm going to go with the LMC truck housings. I believe the part #s were 36-0303 & 36-0302 for inner and putter. does that sound right? as for the drop ins Im not sure where to go with that... I have actually been offered some h7s or h11s etc.LEDs for free for testing purposes. Was thinkin of going that route. Idk.

VIP1

Yes those are the right part numbers for the housings, but the wrong bulbs.

The LMC Truck Housings use 9005 & 9006 bulbs. You'll have to replace the bulb connector on the car with 9006 or 9005 connectors for low beam and high beam respectively for the bulbs to plug into the car's wire harness.

To physically easily fit on the Firebird you'll need the straight version of the bulbs (these housing come with them). 9012/9011 bulbs are brighter than 9005/9006 bulbs and will fit the housings but you'll need to trim the bucket/holder on the car for the bulb to fit since it is right angle. You'll have to trim the bucket for LED too since they have wide heat sinks and fans at the back (also watch out for depth behind the housing).

https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-87-che...csb-dual-150mm
Low Beam: 36-0302
High Beam: 36-0303

Fitting 9011 & 9012 bulbs
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...s-exist-2.html

Here is how I trimmed to fit LED into my high beams:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...l#post20152164

KILL*SHOT

Wow, sounds like you've tried about every possible avenue. Nicccce! Appreciate the information. That being said, im leaning towards the LMC housings and 9011/9012 for sake of simplicity and other projects in the mix.

KILL*SHOT

The 9011\9012 have the same connection as the 9005/9006 right? just physically fit a bit differently correct? I can't seem to find 9011/9012 combo packs that clearly state that's what they are. I've only seen the numbers on single or 2 packs along side a whole slough of different comparable or compatible bulbs.? Is there a set of all 4 a guy could get at a good price anywhere?

VIP1

The sockets are same or nearly same.
9011 bulb will plug into 9005 socket
9012 bulb will plug into 9006 socket

The only physical difference I remember is one of the lock tabs where it inserts into the housing is slightly different but many housings are designed to fit either without trimming. Some older housings may need a trim to the tab on the bulb, but I think the LMC Housings are fine so it should just be plug-and-play.

You won't find a kit/package with both 9011 & 9012 bulbs and they won't say they replace 9005/9006 bulbs. You'll have to buy either single or double packs of the different bulbs.

Watch out for fakes or the older ones. If it has a Blue tinted coating, it is Fake or BS Marketing. Stick with a reputable brand. The glass should be either clear or possibly an iridescent coating (although most of the current/new batch usually don't have a coating).

Fun note: Wagner bulbs are often rebranded/reboxed Philips bulbs but cheaper. I've bought some Wagner 9011 bulbs that said Philips on the bulb but where in a plain white box instead of the plastic blister pack that Philips bulbs are usually packaged. I installed them in my mother's CR-V in place of the stock 9005 bulbs without issue or modification - it just plugged in. Some speculate that Wagner bulbs are Philips factory seconds.

Here is a thread on HID Planet where someone compared a few different versions of the 9011 bulb over the years if you are interested in seeing how they've changed/improved:
https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...9011-hir1-bulb

Last Post in this thread compares another brand:
https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...gen-bulb/page3

Sounds like if you want the brightest version, try to find a Vosla or a Korean-Made Osram (Sylvania). Either way any 9011/9012 bulb will be brighter than any 9005/9006 bulb.

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

VIP 1, Thanks for sharing your in depth experience about aftermarket headlight upgrades. Do you know what the difference in lumen output is between the stock headlights and the new 9011 & 9012 bulbs?

John

VIP1

I don't know the exact lumen difference, but it is noticeable.

beernut

I did, same behavior. I've given up on it for now, just going to leave it until I have time to take it all apart again

VIP1

Sounds like a bad or missing ground. Trace wires and double check connections.

How do the fog lights behave with the high beams off or on?

beernut

You were definitively on to something. Disconnected everything and measured ground on all leads, checked out ok. However, noticed some moisture damage in both connectors, ended up splicing in new ones on both sides and everything works great now 😎

staff23

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone just hard wired the two connections for the headlights? I not only had corrosion but two male ends broke off into the female end. I can find a female piece for about $30 but no male clip in stock now, I could get an entire new motor assembly with the male clip though for 99 (for 2). I'm really thinking of just getting some butt connectors with heat shrink and snipping and connecting. Sorry if it's already on here I read 3 pages but not 102.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You can certainly do that. The connectors are really just there for ease of assembly and repair. If you crimp them use the 3M heat shrink butt splices. The plastic melts and liquefies to make a water-tight seal around the bare wire. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...8731280&rt=rud

staff23

iTrader: (2)

Awesome thank you! I recently decided to change the headlights to the LED lights from Headlight Experts. Took everything apart and sprayed it down with some krylon flat black after sanding down rust spots and what not. I disconnected and went well ****. But connected and they light up, then it wouldn't come back to life. UGH. So I've been trying to decide what was best. The passenger side I do the same thing, everything good there though. Turn them on and off and make sure spacing is good before tightening it all up and.. I get the dreaded motor growl or whatever you want to call it. (I already replaced the driver side with a "metal" gear) Of course this couldn't have happened before I almost had everything back together! So I can't even share pictures yet.

I appreciate the help!