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I don't know what to tell you about why your headlights won't work. But, can you please tell me what a "T-Brace" is?
It's this piece that comes with some of the brass/bronze gear kits. It goes over the bolts that hold the motor to the car to give it some extra stability I guess.
Also, I fixed it just a moment ago. Had a post on a Facebook group that a guy posted this picture in. I had this bolt in backwards, so the arm was hitting the nut on the other direction as it got trapped between the plastic stop and the nut (which explains why I could no longer manually rotate it with the ****). If anyone else runs into the same behavior, check that first.
It's this piece that comes with some of the brass/bronze gear kits. It goes over the bolts that hold the motor to the car to give it some extra stability I guess.
Also, I fixed it just a moment ago. Had a post on a Facebook group that a guy posted this picture in. I had this bolt in backwards, so the arm was hitting the nut on the other direction as it got trapped between the plastic stop and the nut (which explains why I could no longer manually rotate it with the ****). If anyone else runs into the same behavior, check that first.
Thanks!
This is a perfect picture that shows how it is supposed to be assembled. I saved it to my Firehawk maintenance collection.
John
My 01 WS6 headlights are mostly working fine, I replaced both sides with brass gears many years ago. I noticed recently that my passenger side headlight has some free play when it is closed. The passenger side headlight lid seems to be resting on the bumper “all the way” down. If I lift on it, it will move around a half inch up. On the other side, my driver side light is secure with no free play at all. It doesn’t rest on the bumper, it sits in place with a normal amount of panel gap.
Despite this free play, the passenger side raises and lowers normally when I flip the headlight switch. Any ideas what needs to be adjusted to fix this?
My 01 WS6 headlights are mostly working fine, I replaced both sides with brass gears many years ago.
The brass gears are a waste. They strip exactly like the plastic ones do. (The better 'gear' kits come with instructions on how to fix the motor tabs, which are the big issue and not the gears themselves.)
Originally Posted by cascadesys
I noticed recently that my passenger side headlight has some free play when it is closed. The passenger side headlight lid seems to be resting on the bumper “all the way” down. If I lift on it, it will move around a half inch up.
With the car off, pull the rubber cap off the top of the motor the turn the manual opening **** at the top of the motor so the light opens up 30 degrees. Check if the play is gone. If so, then your brass gear is starting to strip.
The brass gears are a waste. They strip exactly like the plastic ones do. (The better 'gear' kits come with instructions on how to fix the motor tabs, which are the big issue and not the gears themselves.)
With the car off, pull the rubber cap off the top of the motor the turn the manual opening **** at the top of the motor so the light opens up 30 degrees. Check if the play is gone. If so, then your brass gear is starting to strip.
Thanks, I’ll try that. If it turns out to be the case I assume I need to simply replace the gear once again?
it’s been a good ten years since I put the brass gears in
The plastic gears in the new motors installed in the thread above lasted 12 years but didn't survive my friend's friend hitting the wall at a local drag strip. (Fortunately I didn't own the car at the time, but the gears were still going strong.)
The gears will only last so many cycles on a bad (OEM) motor. Some motors are worse off than others.
The brass gears are a waste. They strip exactly like the plastic ones do. (The better 'gear' kits come with instructions on how to fix the motor tabs, which are the big issue and not the gears themselves.)
With the car off, pull the rubber cap off the top of the motor the turn the manual opening **** at the top of the motor so the light opens up 30 degrees. Check if the play is gone. If so, then your brass gear is starting to strip.
I used the manual **** to open my light 30°, and the free play is still there, a little worse actually. I took a video here:
That doesn't look like a stripped gear. The linkage is moving in the video and it looks like the shaft that the brass gear is on is rotating. If that's the case, then my guess would be that the motor housing is loose and the worm gear isn't engaging the brass gear fully. (This is what typically strips the gears.)
If the shaft is not spinning, the linkage could be loose on the motor shaft.
If the former, you could swap the left and right motors to confirm if the issue is the motor. (Your problem would switch sides.) This is a real PITA to do, but it would give you assurance before going out and buying new motors.
That doesn't look like a stripped gear. The linkage is moving in the video and it looks like the shaft that the brass gear is on is rotating. If that's the case, then my guess would be that the motor housing is loose and the worm gear isn't engaging the brass gear fully. (This is what typically strips the gears.)
If the shaft is not spinning, the linkage could be loose on the motor shaft.
If the former, you could swap the left and right motors to confirm if the issue is the motor. (Your problem would switch sides.) This is a real PITA to do, but it would give you assurance before going out and buying new motors.
I looked closely and the shaft is spinning when I wiggle it for free play. The nut is tight, I checked that as well. Is this something I can fix by disassembling the motor or am I likely going to need to replace the motor?
I expect the motor will need to be replaced. The original is only held together by 4 flimsy bend-over metal tabs. They loosen up over time and we have never seen anyone successfully address this. (Aside from buying a new motor.)
I replaced my drivers side headlight motor because it would not work. I have the replacement in and it still won’t work. If I manually raise it, it will go down by using the headlight switch in the car. However it still won’t go up. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
I replaced my drivers side headlight motor because it would not work. I have the replacement in and it still won’t work. If I manually raise it, it will go down by using the headlight switch in the car. However it still won’t go up. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
I recently replaced the driver side headlight motor. However, when my light is closing it pops back up about an inch. I figured I had done something wrong, and I have been messing with it for several weeks. I have since realized that the new motor and the old motor have a different length (spindle) no idea what is actually called that controls the bracket that moves the light up or down. The length causes the arm not to connect with the little stop bumper. I have ordered second motor, but it has the same problem. Is there an actual motor out there that has the correct size on it?
Last edited by LS1Verve; 04-17-2024 at 01:57 PM.
Reason: I need answers
Assuming that most of the 2200+ posts in this thread is related to mechanical (gear) issues w/ the headlamp motors, I think I have a different (electrical) problem w/ mine I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction to fix.
Up until about 3 weeks ago, never have had a problem w/ my headlamps working (<25K on my car, and don't do much night-time driving). Went out late one night and the headlamps worked normally when I left home. Then, when I headed home, I started the car and turned-on the headlamps, neither side came up. I hardly noticed until I got home because my fog lights were lighting up the road enough for me. So when I turn the lights ON, I hear just a small, soft click noise but no motor noise or motion (the headlamp bulbs do light-up). Same thing when turning them back off. Seems something common between both sides had failed at the same time, more or less ruling out any mechanical issues. Is there a body control module that may have cracked a solder joint or loosened a connection to it that could cause this? Thanks for any feedback. If the solution for this has already been posted, my apologies.
That both sides at the same are affected at once seem to point to the headlight door module.
See what others say, perhaps a common ground too.
Credit to WhiteBird00 for this great diagram! This diagram is definitely for 98-02, and could be similar or the same for 93-97.
You can also try unplugging and reseating connectors at the headlight door module and other connections / grounds. Watch for any bad or burned connections!
10-09-2023, 04:00 PM
2000 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am Headlight 
