Use a volt meter verify there is power present at the jumper. It comes of maxi fuse so should have power unless the fuse is smoked.

But based off the trouble shooting you and I went through there are still issues related to wiring missing for the clutch switch under the dash. It's missing the 12 v signal from the ignition switch through the clutch safety then out the starter relay under the hood. May have a 2 fold problem.

 

I absolutely agree. There are going to be a few issues here.

 

See if this PDF will work for you. I'm great at car computers and electronics damm home computers are a enigma PITA so my wife worked her magic and got it from my gm shop manual to here for you dunno if it will open or not.

This is seqence of operation.
Soon as you insert the key into ign and rotate to on pos BCM sends ground to starter relay field coil if it determines the key is correct.
2. When you rotate the key to crank 12V power is sent through the starter fuse goes through the normally open clutch pedal switch when you step on the clutch that closes that circuit and 12V is then applied to the opposite terminal of the starter relay field coil. This then activates the relay. The relay has 12V present at all times from the starter maxi fuse as soon as the relay field coil energizes it closes the relay then bridges battery power to the power wire for the starter solenoid. The starter turns engine fires and away we go.

If you follow the diagram and have a basic understanding of electrical operation it's easily solvable.

 

Ya it worked. Funny how everyone has their strengths and weaknesses. Obviously car electronics is a weakness of mine. I just feel like it has nothing to do with the starter or solenoid. I drove the car in the garage, cut some **** up (yes a huge regret) and now it won't start. It has to be related to what I did. I just can't see it being a coincidence.

 

I have to ask is the battery hot have you put a charger on it.

 

Ya it should be good. It stays on a charger, the only time I take it off is when I work on it and that hasn't been often lately.

 

You guys are missing the point that the jumper in the relay socket completely bypasses all the BCM/VATS, clutch switch, ignition switch, and relay itself. The jumper effectively passes unswitched battery power from the starter fuse to the solenoid. Assuming you are actually getting power on the red wire at the relay socket (i.e. the fuse is good), the starter should crank the moment you connect the jumper regardless of ignition key position or any other conditions. You're simply passing power straight from the fuse through the jumper in the relay socket directly to the starter solenoid. If that doesn't work, you have a starter or solenoid problem unless the wiring between the relay socket and the solenoid is broken.

 

Obviously I don't know my butt from a hole in the ground when talking about this stuff but it seems like the jumper would only bypass the relay? Either way I'll check for power there when I get home today, I didn't yesterday.

 

Yes, the jumper bypasses the relay. But there is nothing between the relay and the starter solenoid... no switches or other things to possibly cause the starter not to function.

All of the other things (VATS, clutch switch, ignition switch, etc.) are used to make the starter relay trip so that it passes power to the solenoid. By bypassing the relay with your jumper wire you are eliminating all of those other things from consideration and simply passing power directly from the STARTER fuse through the jumper wire to the starter solenoid. If it still doesn't turn over then it makes no difference if any of those other things work or not because your starter is not cranking when it is directly connected to power. You have to fix that first before you can go back and look at the relay, switches and BCM.

 

Ah, I get it...so what's the best way to test the starter/solenoid?

 

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...on-car-tests-1

 

So I came home for lunch and pulled the "starter relay" then used a test light to see if I had power there and got nothing. Shouldn't there be power there on the red wire?

 

Follow the schematic and check the IGN fuse in the underhood distribution the red wire comes off of.

The schematic can walk you through fixing it without one more post or input from us.

 

I checked every fuse on the car and they are all good... I looked at the schematic and it makes my head spin. I suck at electrical stuff, always have. Guess you guys are about finished with me haha

 

Use a voltmeter and check for voltage in and out of fuse its located in lower fuseblock.

Not through but quickly reaching end of anything that can be done over a computer without hands and tools on the victim.