Wiring help!
On that yellow with a black for the starter enable relay did you ground the relay side or car side after you cut the wire.
Have someone step on the clutch and hold the key in the crank position. Check for 12V using a volt meter at the dark green wire at the starter relay.
If 12 V is not present at dark green under the hood at the starter relay then pull down the clutch safety switch under the dash. Disconnect the electrical connector hold the key in the crank check for 12V positive at the purple with white tracer. If 12V is present then use a jumper and jump purple to dark green. With the yellow with black at the starter relay grounded once you do the above the starter should crank.
Have someone step on the clutch and hold the key in the crank position. Check for 12V using a volt meter at the dark green wire at the starter relay.
If 12 V is not present at dark green under the hood at the starter relay then pull down the clutch safety switch under the dash. Disconnect the electrical connector hold the key in the crank check for 12V positive at the purple with white tracer. If 12V is present then use a jumper and jump purple to dark green. With the yellow with black at the starter relay grounded once you do the above the starter should crank.
Last edited by 01WS6/tamu; May 15, 2015 at 10:01 PM.
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From: Daytona Beach, FL
So... The clutch switch. The purple wire has an all black wire spliced to it and that wire goes to nothing. It looks like it was ripped from somewhere. So I can just connect those two wires and be good? The green wire by the way is also spliced using a yellow wire. Both original wires are very short, maybe why the extension?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Daytona Beach, FL
On that yellow with a black for the starter enable relay did you ground the relay side or car side after you cut the wire.
Have someone step on the clutch and hold the key in the crank position. Check for 12V using a volt meter at the dark green wire at the starter relay.
If 12 V is not present at dark green under the hood at the starter relay then pull down the clutch safety switch under the dash. Disconnect the electrical connector hold the key in the crank check for 12V positive at the purple with white tracer. If 12V is present then use a jumper and jump purple to dark green. With the yellow with black at the starter relay grounded once you do the above the starter should crank.
Have someone step on the clutch and hold the key in the crank position. Check for 12V using a volt meter at the dark green wire at the starter relay.
If 12 V is not present at dark green under the hood at the starter relay then pull down the clutch safety switch under the dash. Disconnect the electrical connector hold the key in the crank check for 12V positive at the purple with white tracer. If 12V is present then use a jumper and jump purple to dark green. With the yellow with black at the starter relay grounded once you do the above the starter should crank.
It sounds like someone in the past may have bypassed the clutch switch cause it failed or for auto start. That being the case I would just splice the purple with white tracer to dark green under the dash at the clutch switch and bypass the clutch switch.
If all of the bcm functions are not damaged it should then crank and fire with the starter relay installed under the hood.
If it does fire me personally I would unground the yellow with a black for the starter relay from the chassis and resplice it together solder and heat shrink and then verify everything still starts and runs normally.
If all of the bcm functions are not damaged it should then crank and fire with the starter relay installed under the hood.
If it does fire me personally I would unground the yellow with a black for the starter relay from the chassis and resplice it together solder and heat shrink and then verify everything still starts and runs normally.
Solder the purple with white to the dark green on the cars harness side not switch side cant close a electrical circuit if you splice the switch into itself.
All of the above wires you are working with are in the vicinity of the clutch pedal. Not the harness you cut out.
All of the above wires you are working with are in the vicinity of the clutch pedal. Not the harness you cut out.
Last edited by 01WS6/tamu; May 16, 2015 at 05:38 PM.
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Hahah ya I was laughing after I saw what I had done. Mega brain fart. I'll get back at it tomorrow, I have people over now.
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From: Daytona Beach, FL
And this just dawned on me. I'm told the car has a '99+ computer and repin done. Does this matter? And what was the issue with the' 98 stuff?
Last edited by Major Shart; May 17, 2015 at 09:42 PM.
Wires for clutch switch should exit the cross dash harness in the vicinity of the clutch pedal area. Just gotta look around in that area under the dash. My cars stuck in paint jail so I dont have it to look at to guide you directly to it.
Repinning the harness for the 411 pcm pertains to and is related to the underhood engine harness only nothing else is touched. 98's have a bad rap for pcm programmability and it's limited because it is a one year pcm only. The newer pcms have more parameters to tinker and fine tune with. Just typical evolution of the species as the years went by. It wasn't due to any reliability issues.
Repinning the harness for the 411 pcm pertains to and is related to the underhood engine harness only nothing else is touched. 98's have a bad rap for pcm programmability and it's limited because it is a one year pcm only. The newer pcms have more parameters to tinker and fine tune with. Just typical evolution of the species as the years went by. It wasn't due to any reliability issues.
Last edited by 01WS6/tamu; May 17, 2015 at 10:12 PM.
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Wires for clutch switch should exit the cross dash harness in the vicinity of the clutch pedal area. Just gotta look around in that area under the dash. My cars stuck in paint jail so I dont have it to look at to guide you directly to it.
Repinning the harness for the 411 pcm pertains to and is related to the underhood engine harness only nothing else is touched. 98's have a bad rap for pcm programmability and it's limited because it is a one year pcm only. The newer pcms have more parameters to tinker and fine tune with. Just typical evolution of the species as the years went by. It wasn't due to any reliability issues.
Repinning the harness for the 411 pcm pertains to and is related to the underhood engine harness only nothing else is touched. 98's have a bad rap for pcm programmability and it's limited because it is a one year pcm only. The newer pcms have more parameters to tinker and fine tune with. Just typical evolution of the species as the years went by. It wasn't due to any reliability issues.
Look for wires that come out of the harness near the clutch pedal and match the wire colors. Unless someone completely untaped and hacked the harness open it should be evident after looking around for a while. That's all I can do for you.
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Does anyone have a schematic or something? There are several purple and white wires in separate bundles near the clutch.
Thread Starter
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Maybe someone could trace where the purple and white wire goes from the clutch switch and tell me or post a picture? My wiring is a mess because of the cage install and my clutch switch already had been spliced, now I can't find the where the wire goes. Or is there another way around it?
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The purple/white wire goes directly from the clutch switch to connector C200 (the big 48 pin connector under the left side of the dash between the kick panel and the steering column). One side of the connector is a single 48-pin block. The other side has three individual connectors that plug into it in rows - a 17-pin single row, a 18-pin three row, and a 13-pin single row. The purple/white wire is in position C5 of the center connector.
However, that should not be a big deal to test to determine if it is the problem. That wire is simply a power feed that goes through the clutch switch and the starter relay coil to ground in the BCM (or in your case to a separate ground). You should be able to rig a jumper wire at the starter relay to provide that power directly, bypassing the clutch switch for testing purposes. For that matter, you could bypass the relay altogether - just pull the relay from its socket and use a heavy gauge jumper wire to connect the red wire at pin C4 with the dark green wire at pin B4 and see if the starter cranks. That eliminates the relay and all switches to simply test if passing power directly to the starter solenoid will get it to turn over. If that works then you can work back through to determine if the relay, the wiring or one of the switches is the problem.
However, that should not be a big deal to test to determine if it is the problem. That wire is simply a power feed that goes through the clutch switch and the starter relay coil to ground in the BCM (or in your case to a separate ground). You should be able to rig a jumper wire at the starter relay to provide that power directly, bypassing the clutch switch for testing purposes. For that matter, you could bypass the relay altogether - just pull the relay from its socket and use a heavy gauge jumper wire to connect the red wire at pin C4 with the dark green wire at pin B4 and see if the starter cranks. That eliminates the relay and all switches to simply test if passing power directly to the starter solenoid will get it to turn over. If that works then you can work back through to determine if the relay, the wiring or one of the switches is the problem.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Well, assuming you are actually getting battery power on the red wire at the relay socket and that power is now getting to the solenoid through your jumper wire, you can now eliminate your wiring harness cuts as having anything to do with the problem. You just have an old fashioned starter or starter solenoid problem.
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Well, assuming you are actually getting battery power on the red wire at the relay socket and that power is now getting to the solenoid through your jumper wire, you can now eliminate your wiring harness cuts as having anything to do with the problem. You just have an old fashioned starter or starter solenoid problem.