Wiring help!
well its part of the antitheft deterrent, i believe its what disables the coil on the starter solenoidal (which is definitely your problem) it should have been in one of the 6 pin connecters into the BCM from there it goes into the theft deterent relay
Last edited by blackbyrd; May 13, 2015 at 09:15 AM.
well its part of the antitheft deterrent, i believe its what disables the coil on the starter solenoidal (which is definitely your problem) it should have been in one of the 6 pin connecters into the BCM from there it goes into the VATS module which is under the steering column I believe
if you can get that one reconnected to its severed partner that should let you crank her over. Now if it cranks but wont start there is another one we will have to track down, and Ill have to dig out a diagram.
theft deterrent works 2 ways, it cuts the injector pulse (I think) and it kills the starter
but get it back to turning over and we can go from there
theft deterrent works 2 ways, it cuts the injector pulse (I think) and it kills the starter
but get it back to turning over and we can go from there
if you can get that one reconnected to its severed partner that should let you crank her over. Now if it cranks but wont start there is another one we will have to track down, and Ill have to dig out a diagram.
theft deterrent works 2 ways, it cuts the injector pulse (I think) and it kills the starter
but get it back to turning over and we can go from there
theft deterrent works 2 ways, it cuts the injector pulse (I think) and it kills the starter
but get it back to turning over and we can go from there
I feel your pain man, when I went through all of this mess I had my seats out and was layng on back under the dash I didnt think that was to bad. Over christmas though I pulled out all the carpet and interior panels to do some sound deadening and it wasnt as easy since ive put on a few pounds since the first go around.
They arent easy to work on sometimes but still one of my favorite cars on the road
They arent easy to work on sometimes but still one of my favorite cars on the road
I feel your pain man, when I went through all of this mess I had my seats out and was layng on back under the dash I didnt think that was to bad. Over christmas though I pulled out all the carpet and interior panels to do some sound deadening and it wasnt as easy since ive put on a few pounds since the first go around.
They arent easy to work on sometimes but still one of my favorite cars on the road
They arent easy to work on sometimes but still one of my favorite cars on the road
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,320
Likes: 341
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The yellow/black wire from the blue 32-pin connector on the BCM is the starter relay enable. It provides ground for the starter relay coil when VATS is satisfied that the correct key is in the ignition based on the resistance reading it gets.
The other wire at the BCM that is involved with VATS is the dark blue wire in the same 32-pin connector. That is the fuel enable signal that tells the PCM that it's okay to allow fuel to the engine.
The other wire at the BCM that is involved with VATS is the dark blue wire in the same 32-pin connector. That is the fuel enable signal that tells the PCM that it's okay to allow fuel to the engine.
The yellow/black wire from the blue 32-pin connector on the BCM is the starter relay enable. It provides ground for the starter relay coil when VATS is satisfied that the correct key is in the ignition based on the resistance reading it gets.
The other wire at the BCM that is involved with VATS is the dark blue wire in the same 32-pin connector. That is the fuel enable signal that tells the PCM that it's okay to allow fuel to the engine.
The other wire at the BCM that is involved with VATS is the dark blue wire in the same 32-pin connector. That is the fuel enable signal that tells the PCM that it's okay to allow fuel to the engine.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,320
Likes: 341
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The yellow/black wire goes from pin C11 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin C6 of the starter relay in junction block #2 under the hood on the left fender.
The dark blue wire goes from pin D8 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin 30 in the red 80-pin connector on the PCM.
You can eliminate the yellow/black wire by simply cutting it near the starter relay and connecting the relay end to a good chassis ground. That will give the starter relay coil a good ground regardless of whether the BCM VATS sees the correct ignition key resistor pellet or not.
However, you can't eliminate the dark blue fuel enable signal wire so easily because it is a data signal based on a 5V reference voltage. You could have the PCM tuned to ignore a missing fuel enable signal which is what people sometimes call programming out VATS (even though it only gets rid of half of the VATS system).
The dark blue wire goes from pin D8 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin 30 in the red 80-pin connector on the PCM.
You can eliminate the yellow/black wire by simply cutting it near the starter relay and connecting the relay end to a good chassis ground. That will give the starter relay coil a good ground regardless of whether the BCM VATS sees the correct ignition key resistor pellet or not.
However, you can't eliminate the dark blue fuel enable signal wire so easily because it is a data signal based on a 5V reference voltage. You could have the PCM tuned to ignore a missing fuel enable signal which is what people sometimes call programming out VATS (even though it only gets rid of half of the VATS system).
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,320
Likes: 341
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I've been in the car business in one capacity or another (parts and service - mostly with dealerships and manufacturer's offices) for the better part of 40 years but my degree is in electronics so I always buy a service and electrical manual for any vehicle I own. And I do a fair bit of electrical customization (lights, stereo, etc.) for friends when I'm asked so the schematics really come in handy and I've managed to pick up some additional experience on the side.
I kind of figured you had some hand in automotive, My father in law has access to shop key so I printed off a bunch of wiring diagrams one night when I was getting ready to do the swap. I kind of wish I had took more time to remove the now useless parts of the wiring since I have a stand alone engine harness and fan relay, A guage cluster that runs off of the stand alone and its own sending units, and a stereo that utilizes none of the pre existing wiring. I dont care so much about the weight (ironblock and stereo) but would be nice to clean it all up and discard the useless stuff one day. Even if no one else sees it I know its all there. Thanks again for chiming in
anyway end of rant, you get it fired off yet?
anyway end of rant, you get it fired off yet?
The yellow/black wire goes from pin C11 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin C6 of the starter relay in junction block #2 under the hood on the left fender.
The dark blue wire goes from pin D8 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin 30 in the red 80-pin connector on the PCM.
You can eliminate the yellow/black wire by simply cutting it near the starter relay and connecting the relay end to a good chassis ground. That will give the starter relay coil a good ground regardless of whether the BCM VATS sees the correct ignition key resistor pellet or not.
However, you can't eliminate the dark blue fuel enable signal wire so easily because it is a data signal based on a 5V reference voltage. You could have the PCM tuned to ignore a missing fuel enable signal which is what people sometimes call programming out VATS (even though it only gets rid of half of the VATS system).
The dark blue wire goes from pin D8 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin 30 in the red 80-pin connector on the PCM.
You can eliminate the yellow/black wire by simply cutting it near the starter relay and connecting the relay end to a good chassis ground. That will give the starter relay coil a good ground regardless of whether the BCM VATS sees the correct ignition key resistor pellet or not.
However, you can't eliminate the dark blue fuel enable signal wire so easily because it is a data signal based on a 5V reference voltage. You could have the PCM tuned to ignore a missing fuel enable signal which is what people sometimes call programming out VATS (even though it only gets rid of half of the VATS system).








