Pontiac Firebird 1967-2002 Birds of a feather flock together

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Old May 13, 2015 | 08:35 AM
  #21  
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Nope. All of those wires coming from the BCM are solid with the exception of the yellow one.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 08:36 AM
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And actually I hooked that one up and tried to start it but got nothing.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 08:51 AM
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yellow one have a black stripe on it?
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Old May 13, 2015 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by blackbyrd
yellow one have a black stripe on it?
Sure does. And I know I need it but can't figure out where it goes other than the connector that has other wires on it and I'm not sure where that goes.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 09:07 AM
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well its part of the antitheft deterrent, i believe its what disables the coil on the starter solenoidal (which is definitely your problem) it should have been in one of the 6 pin connecters into the BCM from there it goes into the theft deterent relay

Last edited by blackbyrd; May 13, 2015 at 09:15 AM.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by blackbyrd
well its part of the antitheft deterrent, i believe its what disables the coil on the starter solenoidal (which is definitely your problem) it should have been in one of the 6 pin connecters into the BCM from there it goes into the VATS module which is under the steering column I believe
you're exactly right, that's what I read. Now I need to figure out where it goes...I mean I have the connector with the other yellow wire with black stripe. I guess I need to figure out where to plug that up at. Or maybe if that is the only wire I need out of that connector/cluster I could just bypass the connector and go straight to the source. Only issue with that is in that bundle of wires in my picture #2 and #3 don't have a yellow wire with a black stripe wtf
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Old May 13, 2015 | 09:15 AM
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Maybe I need to look closer to #2...I know it isn't in #3
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Old May 13, 2015 | 09:30 AM
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if you can get that one reconnected to its severed partner that should let you crank her over. Now if it cranks but wont start there is another one we will have to track down, and Ill have to dig out a diagram.

theft deterrent works 2 ways, it cuts the injector pulse (I think) and it kills the starter

but get it back to turning over and we can go from there
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Old May 13, 2015 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by blackbyrd
if you can get that one reconnected to its severed partner that should let you crank her over. Now if it cranks but wont start there is another one we will have to track down, and Ill have to dig out a diagram.

theft deterrent works 2 ways, it cuts the injector pulse (I think) and it kills the starter

but get it back to turning over and we can go from there
Yep I'll check it out when I get home. I dread climbing back in that car, I had no idea how cramped it would be with the cage in it.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 09:49 AM
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I feel your pain man, when I went through all of this mess I had my seats out and was layng on back under the dash I didnt think that was to bad. Over christmas though I pulled out all the carpet and interior panels to do some sound deadening and it wasnt as easy since ive put on a few pounds since the first go around.

They arent easy to work on sometimes but still one of my favorite cars on the road
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Old May 13, 2015 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by blackbyrd
I feel your pain man, when I went through all of this mess I had my seats out and was layng on back under the dash I didnt think that was to bad. Over christmas though I pulled out all the carpet and interior panels to do some sound deadening and it wasnt as easy since ive put on a few pounds since the first go around.

They arent easy to work on sometimes but still one of my favorite cars on the road
No doubt. They are sexy...and I can't blame the car for this one, this is my fault.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 04:54 PM
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The yellow/black wire from the blue 32-pin connector on the BCM is the starter relay enable. It provides ground for the starter relay coil when VATS is satisfied that the correct key is in the ignition based on the resistance reading it gets.

The other wire at the BCM that is involved with VATS is the dark blue wire in the same 32-pin connector. That is the fuel enable signal that tells the PCM that it's okay to allow fuel to the engine.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
The yellow/black wire from the blue 32-pin connector on the BCM is the starter relay enable. It provides ground for the starter relay coil when VATS is satisfied that the correct key is in the ignition based on the resistance reading it gets.

The other wire at the BCM that is involved with VATS is the dark blue wire in the same 32-pin connector. That is the fuel enable signal that tells the PCM that it's okay to allow fuel to the engine.
Thanks for jumping in. All I need to know now is where those to connect to and I promise to post a sexy idle video
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Old May 13, 2015 | 05:11 PM
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The yellow/black wire goes from pin C11 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin C6 of the starter relay in junction block #2 under the hood on the left fender.

The dark blue wire goes from pin D8 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin 30 in the red 80-pin connector on the PCM.

You can eliminate the yellow/black wire by simply cutting it near the starter relay and connecting the relay end to a good chassis ground. That will give the starter relay coil a good ground regardless of whether the BCM VATS sees the correct ignition key resistor pellet or not.

However, you can't eliminate the dark blue fuel enable signal wire so easily because it is a data signal based on a 5V reference voltage. You could have the PCM tuned to ignore a missing fuel enable signal which is what people sometimes call programming out VATS (even though it only gets rid of half of the VATS system).
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Old May 13, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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Awesome thanks. I'll try to get to this tonight if not tomorrow for sure.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 06:28 PM
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Thanks for jumping in whitebird00 I figured you would know better than me or anyone else for that matter.

Where did you learn all your info about the wiring anyway?
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Old May 14, 2015 | 07:16 AM
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I've been in the car business in one capacity or another (parts and service - mostly with dealerships and manufacturer's offices) for the better part of 40 years but my degree is in electronics so I always buy a service and electrical manual for any vehicle I own. And I do a fair bit of electrical customization (lights, stereo, etc.) for friends when I'm asked so the schematics really come in handy and I've managed to pick up some additional experience on the side.
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Old May 14, 2015 | 08:25 AM
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I kind of figured you had some hand in automotive, My father in law has access to shop key so I printed off a bunch of wiring diagrams one night when I was getting ready to do the swap. I kind of wish I had took more time to remove the now useless parts of the wiring since I have a stand alone engine harness and fan relay, A guage cluster that runs off of the stand alone and its own sending units, and a stereo that utilizes none of the pre existing wiring. I dont care so much about the weight (ironblock and stereo) but would be nice to clean it all up and discard the useless stuff one day. Even if no one else sees it I know its all there. Thanks again for chiming in

anyway end of rant, you get it fired off yet?
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Old May 14, 2015 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbyrd
you get it fired off yet?
I got caught up inspecting/playing with my new nitrous kit that arrived yesterday then the CAPS game. Tonight is the night.
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Old May 14, 2015 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
The yellow/black wire goes from pin C11 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin C6 of the starter relay in junction block #2 under the hood on the left fender.

The dark blue wire goes from pin D8 in the BCM 32-pin blue connector to pin 30 in the red 80-pin connector on the PCM.

You can eliminate the yellow/black wire by simply cutting it near the starter relay and connecting the relay end to a good chassis ground. That will give the starter relay coil a good ground regardless of whether the BCM VATS sees the correct ignition key resistor pellet or not.

However, you can't eliminate the dark blue fuel enable signal wire so easily because it is a data signal based on a 5V reference voltage. You could have the PCM tuned to ignore a missing fuel enable signal which is what people sometimes call programming out VATS (even though it only gets rid of half of the VATS system).
So I connected the yellow and black wire from the starter relay in the junction box to a ground and still nothing. I haven't sorted the dark blue one yet but I thought it would at least turn over. What else am I missing?
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