Wiring help!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,321
Likes: 341
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
If any of those don't produce the results they should then track down and repair the reason. For example, the dark green wire provides power to the starter relay coil through the clutch safety switch or neutral position switch depending on manual or automatic transmission. Those switches can go bad or get out of adjustment.
If all of those things check out properly then reinstall the starter relay and check that you get 12V+ power at the starter solenoid when you turn the ignition key to START. If not, you either have a bad relay or something is wrong with the wire between the relay and the solenoid. If you get power at the solenoid but it still doesn't crank then your solenoid or the starter itself is the problem.
Once you get it cranking, we can move on to making sure it gets fuel to start and run.
Where did you cut the harness at in the vehicle. Under the dash at the kick area near the floor pan or in the rear of the vehicle. Was the battery disconnected when you cut it.
All of the wiring related to BCM antitheft and antitheft starter relay is contained in the dash area none of it runs in the harness down the passenger side of the vehicle. The only wiring from the BCM that runs in that harness is the shock sensor mounted in the rear. If the battery was not disconnected there is the possibility that if the harness was cut in one fell swoop with cutters it could have back fed power up the shock sensor circuit and blew up the BCM causing the no start.
All of the wiring related to BCM antitheft and antitheft starter relay is contained in the dash area none of it runs in the harness down the passenger side of the vehicle. The only wiring from the BCM that runs in that harness is the shock sensor mounted in the rear. If the battery was not disconnected there is the possibility that if the harness was cut in one fell swoop with cutters it could have back fed power up the shock sensor circuit and blew up the BCM causing the no start.
At the kick panel. Battery was disconnected...pretty sure ugh. I remember thinking "oh **** I forgot to disconnect the battery" but can't remember for certain if that was before or after I cut this bundle.
Rap is retained accesory power that keeps windows and radios operational after you shut the key off before you open the drivers door. Do you have the car together enough to see if the list of above works. It could always have wounded the BCM causing the no start and still have all of the above stuff work. Is the security LED on dash and the security indicator in the instrument cluster functional.
What does the security indicator in the cluster do when you insert the key and the go from off to on ignition position then to crank and back to on position?
What does the security indicator in the cluster do when you insert the key and the go from off to on ignition position then to crank and back to on position?
Rap is retained accesory power that keeps windows and radios operational after you shut the key off before you open the drivers door. Do you have the car together enough to see if the list of above works. It could always have wounded the BCM causing the no start and still have all of the above stuff work. Is the security LED on dash and the security indicator in the instrument cluster functional.
What does the security indicator in the cluster do when you insert the key and the go from off to on ignition position then to crank and back to on position?
What does the security indicator in the cluster do when you insert the key and the go from off to on ignition position then to crank and back to on position?
The red light flashes and the orange "security" comes on in the dash as well as a couple of other lights, can't remember which, but when I try to start it they all turn off.
Key in but in off position there is nothing. Turn it to on and the orange security "light" comes on for about three seconds then turns off. Key still in on position, hasn't moved to start.










