Hi chaps, I have searched for an answer to my problem to no avail. I have a 1995 Formula and when I first switch on my lights they won't pop up, but if I then manually raise them and switch the lights off they go down. They will then pop up and down as normal. I don't know how long after this they will go back to playing up as above. Is it a bad module somehow or a power issue? I appreciate any advice.
Thank you.

 

This is a common thing for GM pop-up lights. Try also opening the hood and then slamming it shut (with the headlight switch on) or bumping the fender. That jolt may be enough for the broken circuit to make contact and trigger the lights to open. (When my car started doing this, these tricks worked to get the lights to pop up and I couldn't figure out why for the longest time...)

Regardless, the issue is most likely a cold solder joint cracked in the headlight control module. It's easily fixed with 30 minutes of time and a solder iron. See posts starting at #1838, https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...o-here-46.html (Getting a "new" used board won't help, either. Often, they just have the same problem.) One pass with a solder iron fixes the problem for good. When I did mine, I added a very tiny bit of extra solder, but that's likely not needed and one could probably also over-do it.

 

Thanks for the reply,I tried it this afternoon and only the left one popped up. I proceeded to slam the hood then beat seven bells out of the fender without so much as a twitch, but after cycling the light switch several times the left would pop up on it's own for the first few then the right one suddenly decided it looked fun so joined in.I then removed the module as per the thread you supplied and I will see tomorrow if it's fixed it.
Again thank you.

 

Good luck. That's still sounding like the module, possibly with several cracked joints. (If your right one won't pop up at all, I'd guess that there is a crack for the terminal where the light blue wire comes in that has separation that you should be able to see with some magnification.)

 

Hi there, tried it today and only the left one pops up. However after three attempts with just the left one working they both come up on the fourth try and work perfectly thereafter. I don't know how long it stays like that till it goes back to playing up.
I will have to look at the module again where you said.
Thank you

 

In general; there is a set of common wires that gather the inputs for the module and then separate outputs to the left and right motors. You might still have a bad join there, but you could also have another issue in the wiring for that one motor that's continuing to give you issues.

Another place to look (if the module is all good) is at the motor connector. These are in a really wet location and water is notorious for getting in there and corroding the connections. Some corrosion in there could also give you issues like this. It's a pain, but you can get in there with small pieces of emory cloth and clean up the terminals, if needed.

 

Thanks for the reply, I'll have a look and give it a good clean and hopefully that will solve the problem.
Thank you

 

Ill bet your linkage is backwards and the motor stops (plastic covers for the metal tabs) are missing and it has rotated too far one direction and is now trying to open it the other way because if you dont stop it the motor will go in a full circle and that means the linkage is now backwards.
I am having the same issue with mine. I replaced the plastic/nylon gears with metal ones from amazon for 22 bucks each and the gear problem is not an issue anymore its the right side (passenger side of the car) that is being wonky and im sure slamming the hood and beating the fender wont do anything any good thats pointless.
So I am going to take out the whole motor again for the 399999999999999999th time and see why
1. The main gear shaft has so much play in it for the gears might not be touching / meshing properly inside the motor housing
2. The linkage is bypassing the stops/tabs (probably because the main gear shaft is able to push out about 1/4 inch and its far enough for the linkage to miss the stops is what I think
3. Make sure the linkage itself, if its using Rivets or bolts does not have too much play in it and instead of moving/articulating properly, that it has too much slop in its movements
4. My Pass Side is hard wired and has no connector for the wires that I can see. The replacement motors from Rock Auto show all the motors have 4 or 5 pin connectors on each L & R motors. So Ill have to see if I buy a new motor, I get the M and F pigtails to get it wired in correctly and get some heat shrink tubing when I am done soldering my wires together cause those butt connectors and twisting of wires all are the crappiest way to fix a wiring problem unless you have to jimmy something on the side of the road to get home Ill never lower myself to doing a hack job like that.

So check your linkage, your linkage stops and ensure the plastic caps are mounted on the end of the metal tabs bent to stop the linkage and that your linkage does not have too much slop in its movements as well as proper lubrication on each joint and the metal gears are just the best way to prevent future failures with those crappy garbage nylon plastic gear sets within each motor housing. Takes all of about 10 minutes to change them out and epoxy the covers back on with some vice grip clamps to hold them tight while the epoxy glue sets up and seals them from water getting into them from splashing and such from up under the nose of the car.
Good Luck to you with your issues...........

Jennifur

 

Thanks, I didn't think about the linkage. I'll look tomorrow assuming it won't be chucking it down with rain, this is an English summer of course.

 

Looking at the motor stops is always a good idea because they can get bent and out of sorts. I expect that they and the linkage are just fine since this problem is intermittent and because the motors can be raised manually. (So, it should be an electrical one vs. a mechanical one.)

BTW - If the plastic motor stop bumpers are missing, some members have had success replacing them with short pieces of heater hose. (This quiets down some of the clunking, but isn't a critical part.)

 

I was going to use a few old Thumb Drive caps that cover the rectangular Thumb Drive metal connector, it is the same size as the metal tabs that are present but I also see my metal tabs are a hair out of place, not sure if tahts just from 21-years ish of constantly getting hammered by the headlights going up and down? Its possible but unlikely.
But since my motor that I rebuilt both with the metal gears for 22 bucks each from Amazon, for a few months it was fine but out of no where the passenger size started to not come up and I needed to use a long pry bar to push the linkage just enough for the allen wrench to fit into the top **** to turn the motor to bring up the light manually. Then I saw that the shaft where the internal gear sits was moving around and had a lot of play and allowed the linkage that pushes up the light to be out further than where the plastic and metal stop tabs are. So I think when the light slams shut a few times, it pushes it just far enough that its got the linkage exactly 180 degrees out and the motor tries to lift the light but how the linkage is sitting at that moment, it cant move it and i need to help it by pushing on the linkage with a pry bar and twist the **** a few turns to then have the linkage just past the exact 180 degree point and then it lifts the light. I also have to push the gear shaft back into the motor housing so that the linkage now sits in-between the stop tabs and it works for a few cycles and then ends up not coming up again.
So between putting new aluminum gears in the housing and keeping the plastic shaft mesh gear and only replacing the main drive gear that is attached to the linkage the plastic mesh gear on the shaft of the motor I think is wearing out and causing a little play to be present which is then allowing the shaft to move in and out and allowing the linkage to be beyond the reach of the stop tabs and then when the light housing drops, its in that position exactly 180 degrees out and the motor does not have enough UMPH to move the light housing linkage upward. So the rubber hose on the tabs is a good idea cause you can have a rubber cushion instead of plastic and it wont slam and bang each time it drops or goes up and can stick out further than the plastic stock caps do and the plastic Thumb Drive - USB caps I was going to use to replace the stock ones but ill try the rubber hose method, that sounds better and I have plenty of old rubber hose pieces laying around in my toolboxes junk drawers and clamp on a few to see if this helps some.
I also want to get a replacement motor that is out of the corvettes that have the O Ring Seals on them vs having to use Plastic Epoxy glue to glue the housing caps back on and clamp them down to seal it from water and moisture from getting in there, I have opened and closed up the motors from trying to fix the plastic or nylon gears and then adding the metal aluminum ones and now ill have to do it again but its been about 4 or 5 times thus far and the caps are getting a little beat up and having to scrape off the old epoxy each time If I have to replace one motor which is what I am leaning towards because this one light just wont be consistent and having to get out and raise the light in the rain or in a parking lot at the food store at 1040 PM or something is a pain in the ***, and I just want it to work as it should and not have to monkey with it so I see Rock Auto has them for like 50-55 bucks each so I think I am going to order one and keep the old one I take out as a spare in case it burns up or fails 100%.
I just wish they had a better "backup" way to raise the light than that **** that is really tough to turn (when you have long airbrushed nails) I use a long Allen key wrench but even that is still cumbersome to use.
When I mess with it again ill snap a few photos to show the play in the linkage and if its riveted together, maybe ill drill out and replace the rivets and tighten it up and fix or replace the motor and perhaps my documentation can help others diagnose their headlight issues and identify a few things to look for to properly diagnose their issues, because the worst part is you can not be at the headlight and at the headlight switch at the same time, so you have to flip the **** to lift the lights and then run around to the front of the car to see what its doing.
I live alone so do not have any little helpers around. So I must do all this on my own. Makes it difficult because the headlight might only try to lift the light housing for 3-4 seconds and then stop on its own.
Thanks
Jennifur

 

^ This is a lot of work. At the point this stuff starts to wear out, just going to a linkage off a salvage car may be a whole lot less work. (If you can find a good one.)

I don't live alone, but my other half is grumpy and doesn't help with dirty work.

I recommend getting a cheap $9.99 wall/door mirror from WalMart or something like that. You can prop it up in front of the car and watch what is going on from the driver seat.

 

Hummm.......Never thought of that
And never a touch decision to buy a mirror .....lol....
Thanks for the tip th ats a good idea that in a fair amount of situations I can see that coming in handy for sure.....
I don't mind getting dirty because it does wash off but I hate it when I break fingernails because it hurts like he'll and if they break down low it hurts even more and bleeds for a while and.feels.like someone slammed a car door on your finger tip...
Anyway thank yp u very much I will use a few mirrors I already have for issues that they will come in handy for....
2 thumbs up!
Jennifur........