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Since I had to drain the refrigerant to get condenser out of the way, pulled the orfice tube out to see if A/C system had any carnage..... oh boy did it! So I've got a new compressor, condenser, drier, and set of hoses coming from rock auto. Gonna have to give evaporator a good flushing
Since I had to drain the refrigerant to get condenser out of the way, pulled the orfice tube out to see if A/C system had any carnage..... oh boy did it! So I've got a new compressor, condenser, drier, and set of hoses coming from rock auto. Gonna have to give evaporator a good flushing
Good thing you checked as that looks about 90-95% blocked. Well, on the bright side you will get a brand spanking new AC system!
Was ready to start tightening down the head bolts and discovered I ordered the wrong ARP head bolts, and now I can't return them. maybe this is a 2004 ls6 block. Kit I ordered has 3 different length bolts and I need the set with 2 different lengths.
Got a refund from Amazon, had to pay a restocking fee. Heads are torqued down and so is intake. Got ahold of a pushrod measuring tool and the ones I got are .05 short. So Got 7.5 length ones ordered. So close!
Got it to idle a little better after opening throttle with a piece of paint mixing stick..... so here's a much better video! Got a guy local who will base tune it
Got a base tune put on by a local guy. We did quite a bit of mild acceleration and normal driving so it would be safe to break in converter. We finish up. Now it keeps throwing a P0106 MAP code. I've checked for vacuum leaks and found non. While driving and coming to a stop it will start to surge and either catch itself or die (not everytime). And if I do a small REV it will hang at around 1800 then slowly come down. After research is it just the min and max values of the MAP are off? I'm meeting up with him again thursday
My first experience with a "tune issue" was in a mid '80's Chevy Impala with a V-6 that acted similar, sounds like almost identical except for the code (or maybe I took the light bulb out the check engine light socket, can't remember). If on a long(er) drive that actually engaged overdrive and coming to a 4 way stop or red-light I would have to shift into neutral before stopping and float the accelerator. After a while it would calm down and act reasonable. I finally took it to a dealership (in 1991 or 92) and they told me I had a bad chip on the ECU and needed a new ECU (at a price of 1/4 to 1/3 what I paid for the car). The way it was explained to me was the car was getting "stuck" in highway mode fuel maps and wasn't switching back to city mode map when the driving profile changed. I was just out of high school and didn't have the money for a new ECU so I just kept on living with it until the car was totaled 2 years later.
Not saying this is your issue but the behavior appears to be similar so it would lead me to take a look at the fuel map profiles where the fuel maps are triggered to turn on/off.
Went and picked up a automotive smoke machine. As I couldn't find a leak by conventional methods. Got smoke coming out around throttle body blade shaft. The machine produces about 6psi of pressure. From my understanding of the seal. It helps seal under vaccum and not pressure. Is this correct? I sprayed with carb cleaner and idle didn't change.
06-14-2024, 05:27 AM
