Camshaft? Any vendors?
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Camshaft? Any vendors?
Any vendors have a cam setup for this yet? She's got 700 miles on her and I'm dying to make some real power. I'm guessin that with a fairly mild cam and a good tune 360-380 RWHP should be no problem.
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So what all do I need exactly? From what I've read, the G8 cam uses a different sprocket than the f-bods so the end of the cam is different (g8 specific cam), I guess lifters are needed, pushrods, and springs. Does the DOD need to be tuned out prior to the swap to prevent damage? Anything else "special" compared to an F-bod? I really don't care to keep the DOD, I just don't want to screw anything up.
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You would save money just doing lifters. Us guys in the 5.3 DOD section have the same issue. Cams are going to be hard to come by, unless you don't care about losing your DOD. Lifters however, and a new intake, will most likely give you a similar result.
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Thanks ringram. Everything makes sense to me now.
As far as losing DOD, I'm not too worried about it. Is having this function required by some kind of law? Or do we absolutely need to regrind or buy new lifters and such?
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It's not just tuning. The GM active fuel management engines use a specially designed lifter that locks into place when AFM is activated.
Here's the lifter.
And a diagram.
Last edited by Morpheus; 04-16-2008 at 03:14 PM.
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It supposedly improves your fuel economy when it deactivates 4 cylinders. Leaving you running as if you had a 4 banger instead of the massive V8. Basically, it's there to so you don't have to pay gas hog taxes when purchasing a vehicle, and so whoever creates those dumb standards, are satisfied. Keeps the vehicle from being scrapped because of those green leaf *****.
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While that is essentially how most of us FEEL, that is not what it DOES. It cuts 4 cylinders under light load (Such as highway cruising), and when driving at low speeds, such as 1/3rd throttle and the like. It's really not such a bad thing, and it does work.. As long as you put your car in Drive, it'll be active. IN Manual mode, it's not active. So enjoy your shifting!
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I don't care AT ALL if I lose DOD. As a matter of fact, I prefer NOT to have DOD. I don't like it, just my personal preference. So it sounds like the bitch is that the easy LS series cam swap doesn't apply here- I've gotta spend extra jing on lifters and pull the manifold too.
Unless... it looks like in the picture that when DOD is active, the pushrod is allowed to extend into the lifter body. What if the lifters were disassembeled the lifters and you made up some plugs (titanium or tool steel) that would keep the lifter from compressing as it would in the DOD state? I guess the trick would be making a plug that would stop DOD, but still allow the lifter to behave as a hydraulic lifter- I have no idea if the lifter design would allow for this. Does anyone know how much travel a standard lifter body allows VS. what an "activated" DOD lifter allows or if this has been done? I know that this is a stretch as aftermarket lifters aren't a fortune and any plugs would need some real engineering to work (likely require metered oil passages to allow the lifters to still pump up normally). This just got me wondering if this is theoretically possible.
Not that this matters at this point, but lets say I pitch the DOD lifters and replace with a "standard" lifter. What happens if you drive the car without the DOD lifters, but DOD has not been disabled in the tune (as I drive the car to get her tuned)? Will anything get messed up?
Unless... it looks like in the picture that when DOD is active, the pushrod is allowed to extend into the lifter body. What if the lifters were disassembeled the lifters and you made up some plugs (titanium or tool steel) that would keep the lifter from compressing as it would in the DOD state? I guess the trick would be making a plug that would stop DOD, but still allow the lifter to behave as a hydraulic lifter- I have no idea if the lifter design would allow for this. Does anyone know how much travel a standard lifter body allows VS. what an "activated" DOD lifter allows or if this has been done? I know that this is a stretch as aftermarket lifters aren't a fortune and any plugs would need some real engineering to work (likely require metered oil passages to allow the lifters to still pump up normally). This just got me wondering if this is theoretically possible.
Not that this matters at this point, but lets say I pitch the DOD lifters and replace with a "standard" lifter. What happens if you drive the car without the DOD lifters, but DOD has not been disabled in the tune (as I drive the car to get her tuned)? Will anything get messed up?
Last edited by Roadrunner 45; 04-17-2008 at 06:45 PM.
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Parts needed to do the cam swap:
Camshaft designed for a 6.0 w/ l92 heads (I would run the livernois stage 1 l92)
LS7 lifters
LS2 lifter buckets
Pushrods
Upgraded valve springs (I, once again, usually use the Livernois dual kit)
LS7 cam sprocket (or a billet JP performance ls7 single row chain)
Tuning
someone fill in the gaps if I forgot anything, But that should be it...
Camshaft designed for a 6.0 w/ l92 heads (I would run the livernois stage 1 l92)
LS7 lifters
LS2 lifter buckets
Pushrods
Upgraded valve springs (I, once again, usually use the Livernois dual kit)
LS7 cam sprocket (or a billet JP performance ls7 single row chain)
Tuning
someone fill in the gaps if I forgot anything, But that should be it...
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While that is essentially how most of us FEEL, that is not what it DOES. It cuts 4 cylinders under light load (Such as highway cruising), and when driving at low speeds, such as 1/3rd throttle and the like. It's really not such a bad thing, and it does work.. As long as you put your car in Drive, it'll be active. IN Manual mode, it's not active. So enjoy your shifting!
Parts needed to do the cam swap:
Camshaft designed for a 6.0 w/ l92 heads (I would run the livernois stage 1 l92)
LS7 lifters
LS2 lifter buckets
Pushrods
Upgraded valve springs (I, once again, usually use the Livernois dual kit)
LS7 cam sprocket (or a billet JP performance ls7 single row chain)
Tuning
someone fill in the gaps if I forgot anything, But that should be it...
Camshaft designed for a 6.0 w/ l92 heads (I would run the livernois stage 1 l92)
LS7 lifters
LS2 lifter buckets
Pushrods
Upgraded valve springs (I, once again, usually use the Livernois dual kit)
LS7 cam sprocket (or a billet JP performance ls7 single row chain)
Tuning
someone fill in the gaps if I forgot anything, But that should be it...
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