gto/nitrous questions?
#1
gto/nitrous questions?
i have an 06 gto 6.0L. i have an AEM brute force CAI, jetchip MAF, pacesetter long tubes, catless mids, x pipe no resonator, i will have my car dynotuned in a week. and i want to run nos.what is safe? will it take/handle 100 shot or can i go 150 shot? what plugs do i need to use? i am only going to use nitrous till i can afford more engine work. without nos. also what can the rear end handle, will i need to go with different tires? etc.
Last edited by armyGTO; 06-25-2010 at 07:00 PM. Reason: adding
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Are we talking a wet plate system? If so, a 100 shot is probably okay. More than that I would recommend upgrading the fuel pump for safety, but I know others have done a 150wet shot with the stock fuel pump (but that is really stressing the stock fuel pump). I also suggest a window switch or progressive controller and a FPSS. Then have it tuned so it don't run lean.
For spark plugs, I'd go with at least TR6 with a 100 shot, or use NGK BR7EF (what I got) which are easily good for a 150 shot.
The rear end will handle the power as long as you don't spray off the line (use a window switch) and as long as you don't wheel hop. The weak link in the drivetrain is the inner axle stubs followed by the CV joints/half shafts.
As you increase power, you will definitely start having traction problems. Stuffing bigger stickier tires under the rear is not a bad idea.
A couple of pics of my GTO.
For spark plugs, I'd go with at least TR6 with a 100 shot, or use NGK BR7EF (what I got) which are easily good for a 150 shot.
The rear end will handle the power as long as you don't spray off the line (use a window switch) and as long as you don't wheel hop. The weak link in the drivetrain is the inner axle stubs followed by the CV joints/half shafts.
As you increase power, you will definitely start having traction problems. Stuffing bigger stickier tires under the rear is not a bad idea.
A couple of pics of my GTO.
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I have a similiar question.
I have an 06 M6 and i plan on doing a 150 shot soon, and i will upgrade the plgs and fuel pump for safety as well. Im just waiting for my stock clutch to go out so that i can get a monster stage 3 and then spray.
But i plan on still running my stock 18s with 245 Falken Azenis, so i plan on having the shot activate in third gear.
Will i hook in third with that setup and also is there any way that with a more aggressive tire, say 17s and 275s, i will be able to hook in second?
I have an 06 M6 and i plan on doing a 150 shot soon, and i will upgrade the plgs and fuel pump for safety as well. Im just waiting for my stock clutch to go out so that i can get a monster stage 3 and then spray.
But i plan on still running my stock 18s with 245 Falken Azenis, so i plan on having the shot activate in third gear.
Will i hook in third with that setup and also is there any way that with a more aggressive tire, say 17s and 275s, i will be able to hook in second?
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Depends on track prep, how well the tires stick, and how smooth you are at shifting. I've only heard of people locking out first gear. I'd give that a try, you'll probably be okay.
Start out small like a 50 or 75 shot and work your way up.
Don't active the system below about 3,000 rpm. I usually set my window switch to 3,500 rpm. Deactivate the system about 200 rpm before your shift point. With a manual trans, this is not all that critical as long as you have a WOT switch. It'll deactivate as soon as you let up on the throttle to shift.
Never let it go too lean. It's better to be a tad rich than a tad lean.
Either pay a tuner who has a wideband to get you set up or invest in your own wideband or perhaps both.
Start out small like a 50 or 75 shot and work your way up.
Don't active the system below about 3,000 rpm. I usually set my window switch to 3,500 rpm. Deactivate the system about 200 rpm before your shift point. With a manual trans, this is not all that critical as long as you have a WOT switch. It'll deactivate as soon as you let up on the throttle to shift.
Never let it go too lean. It's better to be a tad rich than a tad lean.
Either pay a tuner who has a wideband to get you set up or invest in your own wideband or perhaps both.
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lol, i have an 04 gto, ran a 200shot wet plate kit, and had no issues, that was with cam, CIA, intake, LT headers, exhaust, and a stall converter. Your goat will take a 100shot dry or wet no problems, just make sure you have a good tuner. As far as the rear end, its different for every car, some cars rearend and driveshafts break with a bone stock motor, and some can survive 200shots. Just make sure the tune is spot on and you will have fun!
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Here is a 100 shot second gear with street tires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGQ2L...eature=related
And with him just punching it in second gear it struggles to hook, i would imagine a 150 shot to be worse traction wise. Oh and im more interested to see how it would hook on the street, i dont go to the track too often.
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150 shot will be handled easily by these motors. With the right tires traction should be obtainable. On a stock motor with a 150 shot you will not have to worry about the axles unless you wheel hop.
I'm currently on stock axles and spraying a 200 shot out of the hole on a 402 stroker. Read my sig for mods.
I'm currently on stock axles and spraying a 200 shot out of the hole on a 402 stroker. Read my sig for mods.
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Yea but your an A4, those hook way better out of the pocket and low rolls.
My main dilemma is figuring out if activating the shot in second gear as opposed to third would require a set of 17s with some beefier tires to be able to hook.
My main dilemma is figuring out if activating the shot in second gear as opposed to third would require a set of 17s with some beefier tires to be able to hook.
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You do know that a window switch gear lockout won't work right with roll racing, right? If you have first gear locked out, then arm the system and punch it in third gear, it thinks whatever gear you are in when you start out is first gear. You have to go through a full activation and deactivation cycle. With roll racing, it's better to just arm the system when you want it to kick in.
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Yea that has been a plan of mine for a while, to have a set of M/Ts for "special occasions"
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I'm speaking from experience, don't drive in the rain with M/T ET drag radials, you'll end up in the ditch. I ran Nitto drag radials before the Mickeys, they do a little better in the rain and wear longer, but the M/T tires have better traction. Still, the Nittos are way better than street tires, plus the 275-40-17 Nittos will usually fit unto the stock wheels and under the rear with no fender modding (they run a little narrower than other 275 tires).
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I'm speaking from experience, don't drive in the rain with M/T ET drag radials, you'll end up in the ditch. I ran Nitto drag radials before the Mickeys, they do a little better in the rain and wear longer, but the M/T tires have better traction. Still, the Nittos are way better than street tires, plus the 275-40-17 Nittos will usually fit unto the stock wheels and under the rear with no fender modding (they run a little narrower than other 275 tires).
But if anything i will not daily drive on those tires, just a special occasion type deal.
Im pretty happy with my 245 Falken Azenis for DDing. And they handle great as well. The fronts will stay falkens.
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I sprayed a 150 all day long on a ls2. then upgraded the pump to a walbro and sprayed a 200. my tuner said that he would of sprayed a 250. car did great on radials (mt on stock 17's) smoked some fast cars...
here is a 550 whp svt cobra that got checked...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo16N...300#post354300
here is a 550 whp svt cobra that got checked...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo16N...300#post354300
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You do know that a window switch gear lockout won't work right with roll racing, right? If you have first gear locked out, then arm the system and punch it in third gear, it thinks whatever gear you are in when you start out is first gear. You have to go through a full activation and deactivation cycle. With roll racing, it's better to just arm the system when you want it to kick in.
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^^. You don't need to get a tune but you do need to check your air fuel ratio while spraying. You want it at around 12.5. I wouldn't go leaner on a stock motor. And you need a wide open throttle switch.