Get long tubes, not mid length. Can't help you on converter.

 

Perhaps?:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-70-2258/

 

Pacesetters are great. Collectors aren't as good as arh or stainless works but they fit great and are definitely worth the money. Definitely should spend the extra money for ceramic coating. You need to do boltons before a cam or you won't be getting the full benefit of the cam.

 

The way I went about it was picked the cam i wanted to go with first, then got and installed pacestter longtubes, the correct valvesprings and stall for the cam....then after that I installed the cam and pushrods

 

Corsa

 

So much retarded in here.

 

Says Mr. Needle dick.

 

I have this cam match with PRC LS6 Stage 2 heads milled to 59cc with a 112LSA and the power is great. the car is very streetable and is fun to drive again. I may want a bigger cam later in time but as of now i made 405RWHP with the heads and ca, torque was right around 388-395 or something. can not remember. this Dyno Run was done on a very humid day also

 

Lol get the 224, and pacesetters. Be sure to follow it up with a predator or doablo can-tune.
Throw a K&N on while youre at it.

 

Gotta' say...I'm with Greg on this one.
People picking cams based on sound. Clearly you have not done the necessary research. You need to read more and talk to people in the profession with experience and advice. Stop watching youtube videos because that doesn't mean ****. Any cam with a 112 LSA will have the lope you're looking for. Start at square 1. CAI isn't a "must" if you're just going to go with a K&N or AEM anyways. If you do it, do ir right with an OTRCAI. 2. Get LT's. Pacesetters will work just fine. 3. Please, please, please don't get a mail order tune if you're not on the stock cam. That's just dumb.
I'll be the first to admit that I don't have the most knowledge or experience with this, but I'm smart enough not to pick one based on youtube.

 

I love my OBX headers. had them for 3 years now. other then a slight tap on the firewall, slid right in with out any issures. didnt take out my starter, dint un bolt my steering linkage, and didnt have to knotch the stock k-member when i still had it. lol they arnt the LARGEST headers, but unless you are looking at max effort, you sont notice a differece between OBX and the bigger name brand stuff. plus you will have more money for the rest of everything that goes with header swaps. OBS are stainless sooooo no rusting like pacesetter. I even had my EGR and AIR still hooked up at the time. AIR is still hooked up but blocked off for "looking stock" lol EGR is gone though. for the same price and design as mild steel, id do it again with OBX stainless headers.

as for stall, depends on what you want. alot of people have mentioned that 3000 and above is a good start for 228s. you dont "need" a stall, but will make taking advantage of your new power more effecient. plus you wold be getting close to pushing with the stock stall. alot of people recommend 3600 as a starter stall. i went 3200 for mine for mostly street usen and love it, but i have other plans for my car so thats why i went with a 3200. alot of people will recommend you do stall then cam. id have to agree. even my mild 3200 stall changed how my car felt.

agreed on the sound factor. picking based on sound alone could result in disappointment if you dont research first. im on the opposite side of the house where, if i could get it to sound as stock as possible with out sacrificing too much power, thats what i want with my cam. im considering the 228 with 114 LSA for that purpose, plus i want the power band up a touch higher anyway.

 

Actually the BEST thing you can do is find a few people that have cammed and stalled autos that will let you take they're car for a test drive....if you have 5 people in the room and ask them what do they feel is good street manners and tolerable to daily drive you will get 5 different answers...

First thing to remember is you want to match your stall to your cam and car, plus the better the final tune is the better the entire package will work for you.

 

I agree with most of what you said, but when it comes to getting a mail order tune after a cam swap most of them are just a close and rough tune to get the car running so you can take it to be dyno or street tuned....the lots of places work is say they charge you $150 for a mail order tune, then you take your car in to them for a dyno fr gull street tune that $150 you paid for the mail order tune gets knocked off the final price.