Raggedy Andy

Hello,

I have an 05' LS2 GTO with an "X" Pipe, SLP Loudmouth II, LongTube Pacesetter headers, K&N air intake.... basically bolt ons. I do plan to go with a small to mid size cam in the future. What is the best bang for your buck when it comes to clutches. I was thinking of a Monster Clutch Stage 2. If you could please tell me the Pros and Cons. Also what are other options for my Goat.....! Thanks

outkast6991

iTrader: (34)

an ls7 clutch is hard to beat for a mild application

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

i agree and second this recommendation.

gconnoyer

iTrader: (1)

LS7 would be a good option. It will hold up just fine, and last for a long time if you arent drag racing it.

Dont buy a monster. Thanks.

LS1'SGrandady

Why would suggest not buying a monster? Just curious and I haven't heard anything bad about them. I was actually looking to get either a stage 2 or 3 if I ever do a cam swap.

Raggedy Andy

I did hear good things about the ls7 clutch. I just heard better things about the monster clutch. The ls7 is nice for a commuter and it could be use occasionally for drag racing. I do want a little more of a boost because I do plan to go with a cam in the near future. I haven't heard negative stuff about a monster clutch. I heard horrible things about a centerforce dual friction clutch. Appreciate the suggestions.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Ive heard a handful of bad things about monster clutches, but for every bad review, i hear like 5 good ones. I did research on clutches and i saw how monster stands behind their products and that made me purchase a monster clutch. A lot of the problems from monster were also due to people not properly breaking in the clutch.

I went for a stage 2 with lightweight flywheel and kept the stock master. It drives like stock and supports over 500lbs of torque. I strongly recomend monster.

outkast6991

iTrader: (34)

my ls7 has been holding 470rwhp for 13,xxx miles with no issues

gconnoyer

iTrader: (1)

I had a monster clutch and the company does not stand behind their product. If you want a clutch, I would say LS7, or shell out for something good, that actually gets beat on and can hold it or atleast be backed by the company.
Search Monster clutch problems on here and LS1GTO.com and see what you come up with.

I bought a Stage 5 (brand new) from one of my friends. I had him email SNL to confirm that a warranty would transfer (since it was brand new) otherwise I was going to buy a new one directly from monster.
After the install the car would not go into gear. No air in the system, and according to SNL "no shims needed." I called them to explain to situation, and their only help or solution was that the hydraulics still had air in it. I suggested that the pressure plate was bad, but they insisted it was fine, no shims were needed, and to keep bleeding it. Quarts of fluid later, and it still wouldnt disengage.
So I called a bunch of companies and Tick said that they use shims in about 90% of their monster installs. I talked to Ryne@CMS and he said that he would shim it. So I picked up a shim (around .100) and did the install again. Still wouldn't disengage. Another call to SNL to sort it out and no help.
Yanked the trans again, measured, remeasured, and added another (thinner) shim, only about .050. Bled the lines, and it would go into gear, but it was a little notchy. I called SNL again to tell them and the only help I got, still, was that I needed to bleed it more. Again, quarts later, no fix. PP let go 2months, 6000mi, a few test and tunes, and a few roll races later. Shattered my bellhousing, cracked my oil pan, and obviously the PP was ruined.

I called SNL, thinking about their "great" "customer service" and they told me that I had left a socket or wrench in the bellhousing during the install and thats what made the PP let go. So they kindly sold me another PP to install. Clutch disk was ok and the flywheel were fine so they said to reuse them.

Bought a stage 3 PP, and 6 months or so later, x amount of miles a trip from california to St louis (after I got out of the military), and a spring popped out of the disk. I called them again hoping for some sort of customer service because the same thing had happened to a few people I know and they had their stuff covered. But I got nothing. I went through a week or two of emails with Steve pointing the finger at everything else. I had to go so far to check the runout of my input shaft to prove that it wasnt on my end, but it somehow was still my fault.

I bought a MCleod RXT (which I should have done in the first place) and its been in since last Feb, 25k+ on it, and not a single issue.



Pictures of my Stage 5 here...
You can see here, a shift internally where normally you would be able to get a socket on the bolt.


My lovely extra parts that I got out of the deal



And here is the Monster 3, with the popped spring, Also not covered. PP and Flywheel were fine. But I asked that get a new PP/Clutch (I didnt want to reuse a PP after a failure just incase there was some hidden issue) or a refund so I could just take the loss and get away from Monster.



This is why I don't reccommend Monster.

LS1'SGrandady

Holy crap man. Thanks for the info on the issues you had and the customer service (or lack of).

409CISecondGen

iTrader: (2)

I have had fantastic experience with my twin disk Monster, Monster was recommended to me by the shop that works on my car, they have built many boosted Z06s, have a 800rwhp ZR1, and have been around for years, I trust their subject matter knowledge. I would avoid an LS7 clutch for three reasons:
-Because it adds significant rotating mass, even with a lightweight flywheel, MOI will increase and whp will be lost.
-Because it's an OEM clutch, it's designed to be easy to drive. Aftermarket clutches are designed for racing. Do not even think about trying to slip the LS7 clutch when you launch at the track.
-Because it was designed to hold 500 crank hp in a 3200lb car. The GTO is significantly heavier and will reach the limits of an LS7 clutch sooner than a Z06 would.