Freefallin

...on your 04 LS1 GTO.

Let's say on with AC on and idling

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

Anywhere less than "HOT" is fine on our cars. The temp gauge itself does not show the true temperature, only cool, normal range and hot. It is considered a "Dummy" gauge.
If you hold down the "Mode" and "Set" buttons on the display control at the same time, then turn the key on without starting the car it will display a hidden menu with several other options for you to choose from. I believe one of them is coolant temp.

LFSADRG

iTrader: (1)

This.

Best way to view actual temp.

Freefallin

Yeah, i actually do that, just said temp gauge needle cz most ppl just look at the needle. Well, im between 212-228. Goes up a little more when i accelerate hard during the day

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

i never knew that lol.


but im around 200-220 when its really hot out and idling but most of the time way below that since im running a 160 stat.

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

The factory thermostat is rated somewhat less than ideal for our cars, we think of them as performance cars and the factory has to think along the gas efficiency and emissions line as well as longevity of engine life.

For performance we like them to run cooler so they don't pull timing = put in a 160* t-stat.
The factory uses a t-stat that is more suited for letting the engine get hot enough during "Normal" driving to burn off the condensation that builds up in the motor after you shut it off and it cools down. If you run the 160* t-stat just make sure in the colder months that the engine gets up to temp for 20-30 mins before you shut it off, the 160* t-stat still lets the motor get warmer than 160*, that is just the point the t-stat opens. It needs that time at 212* or more to boil the water out of the oil.

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

That's spot on for a stock t-stat and cooling system that is working properly.

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

I forgot to mention that once you are into the hidden display just arrow up/down for what you are looking for. The only downside is that you have to do the Mode/Set button hold every time you shut the car off, the chosen display will stay there even when the car is started until the key is cycled off.

time3777

I have the 160 thermostat and my temps stay in the 180 range.

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

That's good, the oil temp will be high enough to get rid of the moisture.

I should clarify a little more about the time at 212* or more to burn off the moisture in the oil. The coolant will be at less than 212* circulating around inside the engine based on what t-stat you have installed and if it is working correctly, the oil temp will be more than 212* after enough time to get hot, it will just take longer to get above 212* with a cooler running engine.

joenub

you can use the VZclustermod software and cable to have your temp gauge read a little more accurately/predictably. check out the write-up on LS1GTO.com for more information.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

How much more timing can you run on an N/A engine when running ~180* vs. 200*?

And what's the benefit of cooler tstat if the engine has already reached it's max timing potential with the stock tstat?

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

FWIW - 212 deg F is boiling point of water at atmospheric pressure and being at sea level. Add pressure and this temperature increases (8 psig = ~233 F; 15 psig = ~250 F; both at sea level) or going up in elevation requires less temperature for water to boil (5k ft = ~202 F @ 0 psig; 10k = ~193 F @ 0 psig).

But regardless of that particular point it happens, it is a good idea to burn off condensates whenever possible from the oils (incl. trans., diff, etc.), or at least change it more frequently if not.

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

There are several variables that contribute to how much timing can be added or pulled and no absolute #/degree of timing that can or should be set. When the motor warms up it has an optimal range of temperature where it performs better. If it goes past that temp it will start to pull timing in small increments, you hear it called "heatsoak" when guys at the track make passes before it cools off enough. The changes in day to day weather cause it to change, etc.

In the 180* vs 200* t-stat question, you may be able to add a few * of timing for peak performance or it may just perform better for a longer period of time before it pulls timing. A lot of it is how/what your car was tuned to do.

In the what's the benefit question, the hotter the engine gets the more timing it pulls to prevent "knock", the point where heat sets off the fuel mixture before the spark plug ever fires. If the ACTUAL temperature difference is 20* cooler with the 180* t-stat, then the answer is simple. What is easier for you, outside work in 100* weather or 80* weather?

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

Thanx! Good info, especially for the FI crowd.

GTO1_OHIO

iTrader: (3)

Depends on if you want to know coolant, transmission or oil temperature.

My hot coolant temp is typically between 165 and 185. My hot oil temp is typically 210 to 235. Hot transmission temp is <= coolant temp.

GTO1_OHIO

iTrader: (3)

Your coolant temp is not a good indication of your oil temp.

I'm NA, speed density tuned with a 160 tstat and have a different of 40 - 50 degrees between the two at hot idle. Some LSx engines are less some more.

Sticks n Stones

stock gauges (or more accurately the gauge cluster computer) are crap and never seem to work right. My gauge stops right in the middle, right where it should and where the T stat opens. Problem is, it will not read higher: car has overheated twice on me in summer traffic because the gauge wouldn't read higher - and the fans work off that gauge, NOT off the sender unit actual reading. My sons car is messed up too: it reads way too low so that by the time the fans come on it's already in the 215 degree range and they don't come on with full power until he's passing 230 degrees. Though his gauge shows 230 degrees to be right of middle of the gauge, and normal op temp of 200 to be the far left.

Both of these issues were worked around by having my tuner turn the fans on at full power at the lowest setting the ECU allowed, which I believe is 185 degrees. ?

BTW the digital readout you get on the cluster when you hold the "Mode" and "Set" buttons when starting it is the same voltage that the temp gauge is receiving, only bypassing the dash clusters messed up computer. I had thought it was the reading that was sent by the ECU's temp sender but it's not.

Rob

iTrader: (6)

The gauge is pretty accurate up to about 180, then it just stays in the same spot. You can do the Mode/Set to get the temp and just watch the gauge to know the needle position at whatever temp. I did this 10 years ago and it still is the same now, so it is a very repeatable gauge...to a point.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

I have the stock temp gauge it reads just fine mines sits around 200 to 210 degrees if it over heats it lets me know n ive never had a problem with it not working thankfully.