p0327
#1
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p0327
Had this pop up the other day, cleared it and it came right back. Ls2's are mounted on the sides of the block not under the intake right?
I dont here a ping or have any issues performance wise and its only bank1. I know knock sensors have a history of issues with corrosion, but I thought the side mounted ones alleviated this?
I had been planning on doing plugs and wires, but it has red MSD wires on it currently and im the third owner and I now have 61k on it. My be my fault but im kind of assuming plugs were done already. Possible I got some bad gas I guess but figured it would be both banks if that were the case.
Tried a few searches but im having trouble finding into on the ls2 sensors its all under the intake manifold info. Any body have any experiences with this issue?
I dont here a ping or have any issues performance wise and its only bank1. I know knock sensors have a history of issues with corrosion, but I thought the side mounted ones alleviated this?
I had been planning on doing plugs and wires, but it has red MSD wires on it currently and im the third owner and I now have 61k on it. My be my fault but im kind of assuming plugs were done already. Possible I got some bad gas I guess but figured it would be both banks if that were the case.
Tried a few searches but im having trouble finding into on the ls2 sensors its all under the intake manifold info. Any body have any experiences with this issue?
#2
Correct, knock sensors are on the side of the block for LS2's. They're about in the middle, just above the oil pan. That code indicates a sensor or wire failure and has nothing to do with knock. I believe you can pull it and do a resistance test with a multimeter. If you do need to replace it, they're like $10 on Amazon.
Why are you replacing the plug wires? You can check resistance on them (and compare to what the manufacturer says the resistance should be) to make sure they're working as they should. Your plugs may be fine too. Check the gap on them and replace if worn.
Why are you replacing the plug wires? You can check resistance on them (and compare to what the manufacturer says the resistance should be) to make sure they're working as they should. Your plugs may be fine too. Check the gap on them and replace if worn.
#3
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Thanks for chiming in, I figured under the circumstances it was more of a sensor issue then an actual knock event.
As far as the plugs? It's a fewr of the unknown I guess. In my experience those premade wires tend to come apart when removed repeatedly and since it's my daily I'd rather have what I need to get it back running in the event something happens. I've only had her for 3 years and barely put 10k on it so I don't know when they were put on. I have a few assumptions since it had long tubes already but who knows
As far as the plugs? It's a fewr of the unknown I guess. In my experience those premade wires tend to come apart when removed repeatedly and since it's my daily I'd rather have what I need to get it back running in the event something happens. I've only had her for 3 years and barely put 10k on it so I don't know when they were put on. I have a few assumptions since it had long tubes already but who knows
#4
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Update put the new knock sensor on (10 bucks from Amazon BTW) and noticed the wires were really close to the long tubes. Saw a melted spot on the outer coating, but can't really get my hands on it.up top. Went ahead and swapped my sensor and I'll go.fkr a drive later and see if that gets me or it was the wires.
#6
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forgot to clear out the code before I came to work this morning, so it didnt shut off on the way in, but I have a 4 minute commute on a bad day. So it may not have had enough time to clear. I have my scanner with me so ill clear it before I leave and see if it comes back, and if it does Ill pull the wires up over the headers to see if I can repair the rough spot. its just rubbing the number 5 primary a bit, in a since it tells me the longtubes probably havnt been on the car that long prior to me purchasing it. as this is the first time ive had the issue but it seems like something that would have showed it self pretty quickly if not for the low miles I drive with it. Probably few instances ive got it hot enough to do the damage
#7
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code came back on the drive home so its most definitely the wires close to the primary.....what i get for being hopeful when I could have just been done with it. anywho, ill patch the wires up and get them away from the exhaust and call it a day.
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#9
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I should have weighed in on the issue before you bought the sensor, but it only cost 10 bucks. The LS2 and later motors are notorious for burning wires. This is especially true with aftermarket headers. The Gen III location under the intake is the best place for the sensor.
#10
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#12
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Finally fixed it, never did get that clip to opennup, looks similar to a zip tie but for the life of me couldn't get it to release. Didn't matter in the end the wire had been exposed for so long the cores rotted it actually broke while I was fiddling with the connector. Clipped the wire about an inch from the knock sensor and all the way behind the block where it comes outta the main harness......total pain in the *** to solder in tight spaces. But it's done cel off. Looks like she still had the OE acdelcos on as well, glad I got wires cause one fell apart when changing the plugs. I guess whoever did the headers put wires on but not the plugs