2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

congrats on the find..

yellow

Keep in mind that KAAZ lockup rate is adjustable from 35% to 100% in about 15% increments and also 1.5 and 2 way on deceleration. Plus it can be somewhat tuned with friction modifier, although I find that to just work on smoothing out the engagement but not changing actual lockup rate. I tested 65% and 50% lockup rate with 1.5 way for autocross. Lower lockup rate is definitely faster. And smoother. And super civilized for street driving.
I think 100% lockup rate and 2 way is meant to be more of a drifting setup.

rednari2

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I never saw one. How do you adjust these in increments?? Clutch spring adjustments??

yellow

I don't. 2QWK4RU does that for me

Checking out KAAZ website is not a bad start to learn basics on their differentials. They have some videos too.

rednari2

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure you can change the springs. I don't want to buy one I was curious, Christ. You must be a troll. Two postings?

yellow

Why would you think I am a troll? You asked the question. I am just trying to point you in right direction to start with. It's easier to have productive conversation if you have some basic idea to start with. Sorry if I offended you in any way.
These differentials are highly adjustable. One can set it up to work for just about any application. Cams, friction plates arrangement, springs, oil type and amount of friction modifier all make a difference. Friction plates arrangement being the most important.

Here is the link for the KAAZ differential basic tuning video. But there is lot more to it. This is why I like to have someone that really knows these diffs work on mine.

rednari2

iTrader: (1)

Ok, What area do you live in?

2002Monaro

I didn't realise how adjustable it is and I have no idea how mine has been set up. I actually really like it how it is. I don't notice most of the time but accelerating on a tight corner I can feel it. Had a run down the strip last week and it was flawless.

yellow

I am curious what exactly did you feel out of tight corners?

In straight line acceleration, it probably doesn't make much if any difference how it is set up.
In straight line deceleration under hard breaking, 2 way cam will make a car more stable.
On turn exit acceleration, less lockup will allow car to turn better (less understeer).
On turn entry, 1.5 way or 1 way cam and less lockup rate will make a car less stable but it will turn in better.
For drifting, 100% lockup and 2 way cam will make it easier to get a car into drifting mode and keep it in drifting mode.
In general, less lockup rate will make the unit operate smoother; less abrupt engagement, good tight turning ability, quiet operation.

2002Monaro

Tyres skipping a little from it being so tight. Almost like a locker.

yellow

Sounds about right. Most likely yours is set at factory 100% lockup. Very few get into trying different setups and tuning these differentials.

What type of oil is in it? Any friction modifier added?

2002Monaro

Penrite mineral. It has friction modifier in it.
This one.
https://penriteoil.com.au/products/g...80w-90-mineral

yellow

That may be too thin for the gears. It would be interesting to hear from others on this subject.

GTO service manual calls for 75W140 GL5.
KAAZ oil is 80W90 with friction modifier and additives premixed in it. But that is not to say that you have to run it. It may be better to use oil that keeps your gears from wearing out? I know for a fact that KAAZ guys used thicker oil in their road racing diffs. They also tried synthetic and it didn't work well. Apparently the diff made all kind of strange noises with synthetic oil in it. I never tried synthetic with the KAAZ diff, so can't confirm.
I run 85W140 Castrol. Mixing 2oz per quart of Torco F-type friction modifier. I buy three quarts of oil and mix 6oz of friction modifier in the bucket before filling in the diff. Note that my car is never driven in cold weather and when it's driven, it's driven hard.

Thicker oil and extra friction modifier should also make the diff operate smoother.

Based on the chart below, there is no reason to go thinner than 85 unless the car sees cold temperatures below 12 degrees Celsius.
The second number is for oil viscosity at 100 degrees. Generally speaking, the higher the number, the better protection at high temperatures and high loads. For those that track their cars, this may be better option.


I am no expert in any of this oil stuff, so whatever you hear from me should be considered as just something to think about and maybe do some further research...

pdxmotorhead

The ramp and angle of gear drive diffs is normally engineered around a 70 weight lube, I had a fail with one when I went to a synthetic, within a few weeks the gear faces were spalling. When I called detroit support they mentioned that they didn't recommend synthetic for a true-trac I loved it offroad becasue it was invisible for the most part.

I went to ARB air lockers and have about 100K miles on them no issues.. I've always wondered why more guys don't use them drag racing, spool when ya need it and open to drive around... But I've always been a circle or road racer.. So thorsen or quaife or true-trac. in those..

2002Monaro

I did a bit of research and found that KAAZ recommended a quality mineral in similar grade to theirs hence the one I went with. I can't find where I found that but I'm sure it was a post from KAAZ on a different forum. If I come across it I'll post up a link.

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

It's getting technical in here...lol. Diff oil is the most confusing part of the drivetrain for the bandwagon kids. Torco and it's done they say... If they only knew what they were really setting themselves up for.

The thinner oil is a bad idea. Torco, it's a bad idea.. There were engineering challenges when our diff took shape. GM made it fly with special oil and fm. These diffs are simple, but not that simple. You have to navigate through **** aftermarket parts and pick and choose if you wanna get them right.

Some run off to the 8.8 and 9" kits. I had those in mind, but research showed more issues and nvh than id like to see.. at least for my car. I've got the oem diff in cars over 1000hp, for many years, and without failure. Like I said, you just have to know what the deal is.

Yellow, he's no troll, he's the real thing. Has the car and mod n plays with it like everyone else. He can actually share some productive conversation if your skin isn't too thin.