GOGOGTO

I have no idea what this is but I've heard alot of people mention it. I live in Florida would I benefit from it ?????

bandit12

Supposedly will allow cooler air. Cooler Air=More HP

SilverGoatGirl

iTrader: (2)

It's a very easy, free mod (I think you can buy a kit for it, but you can also do it without one), and you gain an itty bit of HP from it.

sonicbaloo

iTrader: (2)

The bypass allows coolant to not flow throught the TB. This is supposed to keep the air from heating up when passing into the TB. The reason GM has coolant flowing through the TB is to help emissions and help with cold start up in freezing conditions.

Chad

whatsaholden

iTrader: (1)

it doesn't seem to be worth the 5 min it takes to actally do it, not to mention the $1 it costs for the hose.... i think that with the amount of power we already have in these cars, 1-2 phantom hp (at the crank i'd bet, which i don't even believe.) is not worth making your car look like it was owned by some 17 year old ricer... imho

Foster'sguy

I'm guessing "sandy eggo" doesn't have our heat and humidity.
The TB bypass doesn't apply to your car, or didn't you know that? It only concerns the '04 model and I'll take whatever gains I can get.
Just so you know, it is a free mod. Don't need a cent for a hose. If you'd ever done it, you would know. It's basically unnoticed by anyone who isn't looking for it. So much for rice.
And thats not opinion, thats fact.

Steel Chicken

iTrader: (3)

doesn't cost anything, you can use the parts that are there. it may not help much, if at all, but it certainly doesn't hurt, and it doesn't look ricey either.

GOGOGTO

I could use some pics !!!!!!!!!!!

Steel Chicken

iTrader: (3)

theres no need for pics. take the hoses from either side of the front of the throttle body, and plug em together.

whatsaholden

iTrader: (1)

well ex-kyeeeewwsse the fick out of me. its not my fault i don't live in a craphole. i never said anything about my car. i guess wherever backwards hick state you're from, you have no idea about speaking in generality, much less class.. i guess that makes you better than me. i guess thats what i get for not being poor enough to need an extra 1-2 *fake* ponies. i just did a tstat instead. i'm guessing you didn't, since it's not on your mod list next to your --oil and filter--

ps- clean up that oilstain out in front of your house

gogo- go ahead and tear up your car if you want. i'm sure they'll all tell you how much of a gain it is.. i can tell you some real gains to get out of your car, and they have nothing to do with home depot.

Foster'sguy

You weren't speaking in generalities, you were being quite specific.
You must be pretty thin skinned to be so offended by my remark about heat and humidity that you need to resort to insulting my area - or my home.
As for class, well you pretty much showed yours (none) with the flip off smiley.
Changing your thermostat does not affect the air temp passing through the TB. The 05's and 06's have a different TB than the 04. Yours does not have coolant flowing around it to raise the temperature. Mine did.
Not being poor enough to need 1 or 2 *fake* ponies? Your logic escapes me. Gee, the 05's weren't out yet when I got my car so, yeah, I'll take what I can get.
My oil and filter are quality items. Got no shame in announcing the brands.
As for the oil catch can, my HD special was an experiment to see if it was worth it to order a professionally designed unit. In a very short period of time it has shown me that it is a necessary item. Crappy pic to follow. Will take and post a better pic tomorrow.

And yes, I'm better than you.

P.S. The stain is not on my side of the street, so I really don't care!

whatsaholden

iTrader: (1)

well i guess a millionth of a degree of heat generated by the fraction of a second the air is passing through the tb kills power in theory, but not in america.
the tstat does not need to cool air into the motor, as it makes the entire engine cooler, which is much more important, imho. most people seem to already know that. apparently some still don't. my tongue would never have been sharp had i not been attacked earlier. watch the way you phrase things. there are in fact people here that know more than you. so dont assume since your opinion(thats all it is) is always right. as you will be proven wrong. we can all have a good time on here, or we can all bicker about who's right. your choice. i don't appreciate being talked down to. i've been a mechanic since i was 15. and i'm glad to help nice people. there was no reason to belittle me in such a way. thats why you got the reply you did. plus i think i was drunk. that tends to happen a lot. anyway, put the mod on the dyno and prove the power. you'll be surprised at what you'll find. nothing. look at it logically.. 350in^3 pulling air at an avg of 4000rpm. any single cu.in. of air is travelling across the tb for less than a millisecond. how hot can it possibly get in that time? a thousandth of a degree? and the next in^3 of air that hits it is just as cool as the first before it hit the tb. if anything, the tb is cooling the motor in hot conditions, the tb is the stationary factor, and the cooler air is constantly cooling off the tb, almost as a radiator does. although the tb is heating the air a thousandth of a degree, the air is making that tb a good 5-10* cooler.. now if the whole motor is 20* cooler, as it would be with a tstat, then you are looking at some performance gains, common sense dictates.... but don't listen to me, nobody does. i apologize for my earlier drunken rant, but don't talk down to people you don't know. because they may just know more than you. not just what is read off these (often ridiculous) forums, but actual mechanical knowledge.
i have plenty of induced hp on my car. but it's not about the brands or the stickers. it's about having a clean car. at least for me, and a few other people i know who are very fast.(you know who you are) the new goat is a great car, so do what you want with it. imho the pcv system is a good thing. that oil in the combustion chambers is there for a reason. do you think that burning motor oil is good for emissions? imo the only way that the top of your stroke and valve seats are going to see any lubrication at all is through that pcv, and now your car is running dry near the top of stroke. imho. dont listen to me if you don't want. what do i know?

aja342

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE]well i guess a millionth of a degree of heat generated by the fraction of a second the air is passing through the tb kills power in fantasy carland, but not in america.
ps. youre not as smart as you think you are.[QUOTE]

Well he seems to have you beat.

The By-pass does not do much but it DOES keep you T-body cooler. If you do not think 100 degree liquid running though metal will not heat the air around it...even if it is breifly then you need to back to high school....unless you are from Cali..then you need to go to college.

whatsaholden

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=aja342]if you think engine coolant is 100* then you need to get off this forum and go to ls1takeitintothedealer.com.
and to grammar school for your language skills.

Foster'sguy

I accept your apology.
I am not a professional mechanic, although I've worked on engines big and small most of my 51 years. What is your level of expertise?
The reason I did not go with the 160 degree thermostat is, thanks to my tune, it is unnecessary. Due to the work of Jeremy Formato, the engine never runs over 197 degrees. The TB bypass was done long before the tune.
By your reasoning, a blow dryer should not work.
If you blow air fast enough though a heated metallic tube, it will not change temperature?
Most of my driving is done well below 4,000 rpm. Down here in Hicksville it gots hot. Africa hot, with humidity I don't wish on anyone. Our engines have a BIG problem with heat soak. ANYTHING that can reduce the incoming air temp, even 1 millionth of a degree is an improvement to me.
I apologize if you think I'm talking down to you.

whatsaholden

iTrader: (1)

i have run the gamut, from mop boy, to oil changer, to brake tech, to maintenance mechanic, and wound up as a tuner mechanic (mainly honda and nissan[favorite], toyota mitsu and subaru sprinkled in) and have done almost everything you can do to a motor (full swaps to ecu retros and injector conversions, played with porting but never had enough money to screw up...), just on a smaller scale(as in nissan sr20det 2.0 i4 turbo, rb25dett 2.5i6 twin turbo, and of course, the honda 'lego' motors). contrary to popular belief and 'the fast and the furious', import tuning has been around since the early `80s and before. being in san diego, where 1/4 of the population is asian, there is a much bigger market for it than most other places. i have been drifting for a long time, also, and it pisses me off when people call it a 'fad', and always mention those stupid movies. you can't throw a rod (even in a bright green eclipse) and keep driving it.(vent) so if i say anything about drifting or road racing, don't discount it. i used to work for mack... mckinneymotorsports.com a blow drier runs over a red hot coil, heated by current applied to a high resistance wire. like a toaster, but more dense. if your tb was red hot, you would get heat soak. also, if your blow drier blew as much as these motors, with the same amount of heat it makes now, it would not get very hot. you're right. i guess it comes down to personal preference. i would not personally do a mod that makes my car appear as less than of factory quality. but also, i would not put forced induction on my car. or a straight axle. i run mobil 1 5w30, because it works very well. having an m6, i don't even drag it. i have my preferences. as we all do. so no hard feelings. my car has to be tuned for a wide variety of conditions, from 50*(30 in the winter) and foggy to 115 and dry (or up to and above like 45% humidity), and from sea level to 7000', as san diego has a pretty wide spectrum, from beaches to mountains to deserts all within an hour's drive. so it keeps me on my toes. san diego tuners have to be the best, if we want the best out of our cars no matter where we are.. (we have 2 drag strips in s.d., one at about sea level, and one over 4000', and they run on consecutive days, not that i use them..) so i try to keep everything as neat and clean and as close to factory as possible. (i learned from the best.) because they designed the car to operate in a wide variety of climates, which is exactly what we tune in.

ps. import guys can drag too..

Foster'sguy

Cool. Now try tuning for 100% humidity and you'll try anything that may help!
The whole engine bay is like a toaster oven, which many down here can confirm. Heatsoak IS a very serious issue down here.
I've worked in the S.D. area and have family there. Had to come home. Missed the weather.
I highly recommend the GMM Ripshifter and the RP Synchromax. Makes it a whole different vehicle!

whatsaholden

iTrader: (1)

i never had a problem with the factory setup, except for that incessant rattle the stick makes sometimes. but i baby the trans somewhat, and heel-toe every downshift. my tranny never sees a shock braking load on it (made that term up, as in rpms too low, downshift and really load up the motor and trans, there's prolly a real term i forgot) and never shift-lock.. i have the 240 for shift-lock drifting. my goat mostly gets me to work and up into the mountains, and i usually only dynamic drift it. the s13 is my whipping boy, as is evidenced by the brand new diff and the check engine light being on. "go speed racer go-oo"

Foster'sguy

Very often, the rattle comes from the **** being a little loose. I've never had the problem but a lot of guys have.

whatsaholden

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i should prolly just take it in, and see if they can warranty my diff oil at 13k.. it's starting to 1-leg.. "hey bub dont put so much friction modifier in this time"
ps what state exactly have i been talking poo about this whole time? i hope youre not in AL cuz i have family there and would be embarrassed.. hows that for the pot calling the kettle black? i'm the guy who gets drunk and picks a fight, btw