Installed Drag Bags yesterday
#1
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From: Houston, TX
Installed Drag Bags yesterday
With the new 19s, I was getting a tiny bit of rubbing even with rolled fender lips. Mostly on bumps on the roadways. I went ahead and installed a set of BMR drag bags to raise the rearend up a bit and provide more tire clearance.
Installation was pretty simple, I did the installation without removing the coil springs or unbolting anything.
Tools:
Sawzall saw to cut the upper and lower bump stops
wire cutters to cut the air hose
pliers to install the air hose clips
drill to make the hole for mounting the air valve
zip-ties (included)
One trick is to deflate the air bag as much as possible and then slap that black rubber cap/plug back on so that it remains compressed. This makes it pretty simple to stick between the coils and move upwards into the spring. Once you get the bag into the coil, remove that plug on the nipple and then attach the hose. Pump it up with an air compressor or bike pump and it will "fill" into shape and it can be moved around slightly.
Overall, it took about an hour. The longest part was figuring out where I wanted to run the air lines and mount the air valve. I ran them up the tie rods and decided to keep the "T" fitting to join the two bags. From there I routed a line to the rear of the passenger side wheel opening, drilling a hole in the black plastic underneath the quarterpanel. This keeps it easy to access.
I put 9 psi in the bags, and the car seems to sit about an inch higher. No more saggy butt!
ride quality didn't seem harmed at all. Wheelhop was definitely minimized from this mod.
Installation was pretty simple, I did the installation without removing the coil springs or unbolting anything.
Tools:
Sawzall saw to cut the upper and lower bump stops
wire cutters to cut the air hose
pliers to install the air hose clips
drill to make the hole for mounting the air valve
zip-ties (included)
One trick is to deflate the air bag as much as possible and then slap that black rubber cap/plug back on so that it remains compressed. This makes it pretty simple to stick between the coils and move upwards into the spring. Once you get the bag into the coil, remove that plug on the nipple and then attach the hose. Pump it up with an air compressor or bike pump and it will "fill" into shape and it can be moved around slightly.
Overall, it took about an hour. The longest part was figuring out where I wanted to run the air lines and mount the air valve. I ran them up the tie rods and decided to keep the "T" fitting to join the two bags. From there I routed a line to the rear of the passenger side wheel opening, drilling a hole in the black plastic underneath the quarterpanel. This keeps it easy to access.
I put 9 psi in the bags, and the car seems to sit about an inch higher. No more saggy butt!
ride quality didn't seem harmed at all. Wheelhop was definitely minimized from this mod.
#3
I ran the hose to the fuel cap bay. It took an extra couple of minutes but is very convenient for adding and subtracting air. I agree that it makes a big difference in stance along with improved 60ft times. ~ .10-.15
#4
Here I was raising the rear up with the King HD springs and now I want it lower again. I like stock height, just needs to be stiffer to avoid rubbing. I'd be interested in seeing some shots of your GTO now to see how it sits Tony as I'm considering drag bags as well for traction/wheelhop issues too.
#5
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From: Houston, TX
Josh, you can raise/lower the rear of the car now. It can go from stock height (0 psi) or up to 1.5" taller in the rear with 15 psi. I'm currently running them at 9 psi and the front/rear wheelgap is the same. That is with luggage and a 250 lb passenger since we are currently heading to Power Tour. Just passed thru Nashville last night, we are in Bowling Green now, headed to Cleveland.
#6
I used drag bags to keep mine up off of the wheels as well. The install is really easy, the only thing that went in befor them was the gmm. I mounted the valves in the trunk and kept them separate incase spirited driving around the track takes place. That way both springs will remain the same and they wont change psi on one side when more pressure is applied to the other.
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#8
In Nashville and didn't even let me know. Bastard. :p Seems like I heard you shouldn't run no air in drag bags. If you can run them with no air I'll probably grab some and only air them up at the track. The King springs are great on the street, no rub at all and I wouldn't want the rear to sit any higher, but I'm still getting a little wheelhop at the track on occassion and wouldn't mind running 5-10 psi in them at the track to help a little.
#9
Running no air pressure can cause pinching and holes in the bags. They suggest 5-10 pounds on the street. I run about 10 pounds on the street and about 30 pounds at the track. At 20 pounds the wheel hop ended. At 30 pounds I was able to cut an additional .1-.15 off of my 60 ft. time.
#11
Originally Posted by Tails
Running no air pressure can cause pinching and holes in the bags. They suggest 5-10 pounds on the street. I run about 10 pounds on the street and about 30 pounds at the track. At 20 pounds the wheel hop ended. At 30 pounds I was able to cut an additional .1-.15 off of my 60 ft. time.
did you put yours in like this?
(without removing anything?
I've got a set of drag bags in my garage (along with a harrop cover, bmr subframe connectors, h/d cv axles, and axle stubs)
#12
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From: Southaven, MS (near Memphis, TN)
Originally Posted by KrautBurner
did you put yours in like this?
(without removing anything?
I've got a set of drag bags in my garage (along with a harrop cover, bmr subframe connectors, h/d cv axles, and axle stubs)
(without removing anything?
I've got a set of drag bags in my garage (along with a harrop cover, bmr subframe connectors, h/d cv axles, and axle stubs)
I removed my springs to install the bags...Just seemed easier that way. Only took 1.5-2 hours...It always takes me longer to do projects cause I lose my tools all the time
#14
Originally Posted by KrautBurner
did you put yours in like this?
(without removing anything?
I've got a set of drag bags in my garage (along with a harrop cover, bmr subframe connectors, h/d cv axles, and axle stubs)
(without removing anything?
I've got a set of drag bags in my garage (along with a harrop cover, bmr subframe connectors, h/d cv axles, and axle stubs)
Geez Russ, I thought you would have done all that by now. I assume you are using a lift so it may be easier to remove the springs.
#16
i run mine at around 18 psi at the track and the rear is raised up a good inch and a half...i needed them for clearing the 11.5" slicks i got from MT and was able to cut 1.8's with the stock clutch and gears....i usually keep about 9 psi on the street just for the comfort factor when going over bumps and such. at 9 psi the rear isnt raised very much (maybe a half inch). overall im very happy with the drag bags, for the cost they are a great alternative to much more expensive options for the suspension.
tails: i belive 30 psi is ALOT of pressure for these bags but hell if it works it works.
tails: i belive 30 psi is ALOT of pressure for these bags but hell if it works it works.
#18
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From: Houston, TX
We have driven from Houston, TX to Cleveland, OH, and now back to Little Rock, AR. Car still rides great, only rubbed a tiny bit on a huge dip in the road somewhere near Chicago. I'm very pleased with the ride.
No more squat, feels more stable.
No more squat, feels more stable.