Has anyone used a Dana S60 rear end while autox or roadracing?
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How does an S60 hold up to roadracing, it is cheaper than a 12 bolt or 9 in and it has options for a tru-track, so i was looking at that at being my next rear end when my ten bolt goes. I know the ten bolt would be ok for just roadracing but i plan on dragging it too with at least 500rwhp. Thanks
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Nope, added weight isn't a positive no matter where or what it is.
You said you intend to drag race the car as well. If you are planning to beat on the car on the dragstrip, you can't expect to take advantage of the nice light stock 10bolt on a road course. It is a trade off of having a one car to use for all disciplines.
You said you intend to drag race the car as well. If you are planning to beat on the car on the dragstrip, you can't expect to take advantage of the nice light stock 10bolt on a road course. It is a trade off of having a one car to use for all disciplines.
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im a huge offroad jeep enthusiast and the dana 60 is a beastly axle not the lightest mind u but very strong and by far the most popular with big tire spinning jeeps they can handle serious beating and the aftermarket support is great and wadded weight isnt good like nj spyder said but if u want something u can pull out at a junk yard rebuild with very strong parts on the cheap and have a nice axle the dana 60 is a good choice but i believe a ford 9 inch is lighter and just a little weaker but the nine inch is nice cause u can rebiuld it with it in the car it unbolts apart very easily and can aslo be built very strong and has great aftermarket support
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I had this conversation with sam strano. He wasn't too happy with the weight of the rear but I'm in a simular situation. I like both drag racing and autoxing the car. So with a supercharger in the future I went with the s60. There are always trade offs. But I'm glad to see someone else was thinking the same thing. I kept tossing arond in my head if I made the right decision on my rear.
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well after digging around the 10 bolt is aprox 175 pounds
so that puts the s60 40 pounds heavier than the 10 bolt
I just got mine and it is a monster I'll just have to get creative to shed some pounds
so that puts the s60 40 pounds heavier than the 10 bolt
I just got mine and it is a monster I'll just have to get creative to shed some pounds
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I have a midwest fab 9in and it with an alum center section weighs less than the stock 10 bolt.
I went Iron for long term street life and quietness and it came out 7 lbs more than my stock 10 bolt. Also went with the full length TA as the short TA sucks for handleing.
I went Iron for long term street life and quietness and it came out 7 lbs more than my stock 10 bolt. Also went with the full length TA as the short TA sucks for handleing.
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if it weighs less than the damn 10 bolt!!
RIght now I have a 12 bolt, because I too drag race and raod race my car..
and I have the lighter aluminum cover, trutrac 12 bolt w 3.73s.. and I still felt a huge difference in cornering and was experienceing wheelhop on decel..
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I have a strange 12 bolt with 33 spline axles and the super strength posi. STAY AWAY FROM IT!!! The modified eaton posi is a PITA and does not work well for road coarse stuff if you are on R compounds and have substantial latteral grip. I can burn the right inside tire even with the 900# springs in the diff. They DO NOT offer a true trac or any other diff due to the way the splines are on the axles. Been working though this problem for the last couple years. I am not lifting the inside tire, and have tried softer rear bars to try to eliminate it. I just starts pushing with the softer bar. I didn't have this problem before I started using real r compounds like the 710s. The stroker motor and all the bottom end torque didn't help the situation either ![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
I am still half tempted to try the true trac even though it supposedly is loose on the splines....
I used to drag the car and got a 12 bolt as a result of blowing the 10 bolt. I then switched to AX so I just run what I have. Also, 3 channel abs instead of hte 4 channel causes even more issues..... you have to get the diff machined to accept the reluctor. If I switch the diff, I would have to have strange machine it down and tig weld the reluctor to the diff like it is now.
From what I have found, i have a common problem with my clutch type posi vs the others available.
![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
I am still half tempted to try the true trac even though it supposedly is loose on the splines....
I used to drag the car and got a 12 bolt as a result of blowing the 10 bolt. I then switched to AX so I just run what I have. Also, 3 channel abs instead of hte 4 channel causes even more issues..... you have to get the diff machined to accept the reluctor. If I switch the diff, I would have to have strange machine it down and tig weld the reluctor to the diff like it is now.
From what I have found, i have a common problem with my clutch type posi vs the others available.
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I have a strange 12 bolt with 33 spline axles and the super strength posi. STAY AWAY FROM IT!!! The modified eaton posi is a PITA and does not work well for road coarse stuff if you are on R compounds and have substantial latteral grip. I can burn the right inside tire even with the 900# springs in the diff. They DO NOT offer a true trac or any other diff due to the way the splines are on the axles. Been working though this problem for the last couple years. I am not lifting the inside tire, and have tried softer rear bars to try to eliminate it. I just starts pushing with the softer bar. I didn't have this problem before I started using real r compounds like the 710s. The stroker motor and all the bottom end torque didn't help the situation either ![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
I am still half tempted to try the true trac even though it supposedly is loose on the splines....
I used to drag the car and got a 12 bolt as a result of blowing the 10 bolt. I then switched to AX so I just run what I have. Also, 3 channel abs instead of hte 4 channel causes even more issues..... you have to get the diff machined to accept the reluctor. If I switch the diff, I would have to have strange machine it down and tig weld the reluctor to the diff like it is now.
From what I have found, i have a common problem with my clutch type posi vs the others available.
![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
I am still half tempted to try the true trac even though it supposedly is loose on the splines....
I used to drag the car and got a 12 bolt as a result of blowing the 10 bolt. I then switched to AX so I just run what I have. Also, 3 channel abs instead of hte 4 channel causes even more issues..... you have to get the diff machined to accept the reluctor. If I switch the diff, I would have to have strange machine it down and tig weld the reluctor to the diff like it is now.
From what I have found, i have a common problem with my clutch type posi vs the others available.