Harness holes too small?
01-25-2009, 10:06 AM
#22
http://www.saferacer.com/g-force-eye...?productid=883
these are the specific ones i used. they also come in a shorter version, but same pitch. screwed right in, no problems. i havent swapped yet, but i cant imagine GM changing the pitch of threads between 3rd and 4th gens.
these are the specific ones i used. they also come in a shorter version, but same pitch. screwed right in, no problems. i havent swapped yet, but i cant imagine GM changing the pitch of threads between 3rd and 4th gens.
"1/2" Eyebolt, Nut, & Washer used to mount harness directly to floor pan of vehicle. 50mm long bolt"
That is typically how it works. I don't recall any belt not having to have that done.
01-25-2009, 06:56 PM
#24
Like I said ...
I have been unable to find a bolt of sufficient hardness that has the same thread and pitch so that I could eliminate the shouldered torx bolt.
If you are dead set on using the stock mounting point, you only have 2 options. open up the hole of the harness or use the supplied hardware that came with your harness.
Opening up the hole is not that big of a deal. Your referenced link, while true, is probably a little over the top. If you take your time, be smooth and be careful, the issues javajoe sensationalized will be of minimal concern.
Using the supplied hardware brings along it's own set of issues. Primarily, installing the bolts or eyebolt in the rocker panel side. In my race car, I used a cut-off wheel and made an access panel in the botom of the rocker panel so that I could get a wrench on the backing nut after I installed the harness' eyebolt. Once finished, I made a cover and riveted it in place to seal the hole I created. I used windshield sealer to prevent water intrusion.
In my street car, I opened the hole of the harness tab with a die grinder.
If you are dead set on using the stock mounting point, you only have 2 options. open up the hole of the harness or use the supplied hardware that came with your harness.
Opening up the hole is not that big of a deal. Your referenced link, while true, is probably a little over the top. If you take your time, be smooth and be careful, the issues javajoe sensationalized will be of minimal concern.
Using the supplied hardware brings along it's own set of issues. Primarily, installing the bolts or eyebolt in the rocker panel side. In my race car, I used a cut-off wheel and made an access panel in the botom of the rocker panel so that I could get a wrench on the backing nut after I installed the harness' eyebolt. Once finished, I made a cover and riveted it in place to seal the hole I created. I used windshield sealer to prevent water intrusion.
In my street car, I opened the hole of the harness tab with a die grinder.
01-26-2009, 06:40 AM
#26
Look, this is no different than installing a set of headers, for instance, that are "direct bolt-ons".
Yet you have to maybe re-route a little wiring, extend an O2 wire, maybe massage the floor pan or cross member or be careful going over speed bumps. It comes with the territory.
This issue is minor in comparison to other modifications one makes in order to upgrade or add performance parts. This isn't a shift **** or carbon fiber overlay. This is the component that keeps your butt in place in case something really, really bad happens.
I know of no lap harness that has the size needed to fit over the shoulder of a stock torx bolt.
Yet you have to maybe re-route a little wiring, extend an O2 wire, maybe massage the floor pan or cross member or be careful going over speed bumps. It comes with the territory.
This issue is minor in comparison to other modifications one makes in order to upgrade or add performance parts. This isn't a shift **** or carbon fiber overlay. This is the component that keeps your butt in place in case something really, really bad happens.
I know of no lap harness that has the size needed to fit over the shoulder of a stock torx bolt.
02-04-2009, 12:24 PM
#27
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Actually I found some grade 10.9 hardware and used that to bolt my harness in place in the stock location. The stock threads are metric but the size and pitch are not unique. There are plenty of high quality bolts that can be purchased that will work. I ended up double nutting the bolt right at the shoulder to use as a stop and then I torqued the bolt to the GM factory specs when I installed it.
02-04-2009, 12:39 PM
#28
Actually I found some grade 10.9 hardware and used that to bolt my harness in place in the stock location. The stock threads are metric but the size and pitch are not unique. There are plenty of high quality bolts that can be purchased that will work. I ended up double nutting the bolt right at the shoulder to use as a stop and then I torqued the bolt to the GM factory specs when I installed it.
02-04-2009, 03:31 PM
#29
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You'll never guess/believe it: Ace Hardware. They've got a really nice selection of fasteners and not only do they carry lots of sizes, but they are also high quality, not China knock-offs, which is indicated by the class ID and the Manufacture ID on the head of the bolts and nuts.
02-04-2009, 05:59 PM
#34
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BTW, do you still have stock seats or did you replace them with a real racing seat? If you have the stock seat then returning the harness was a good idea because I found that the shoulder straps of the harness didn't do jack to hold me into a stock seat. However once I upgraded to a racing seat, the harness is a must have.
If you choose to repurchase a harness I can't recommond a cam-lock style latch strong enough. I have the latch-lock style cause I wanted to save $30/harness and I totally regret it. The latch lock is such a pain to belt in compared to the cam lock.
02-04-2009, 09:36 PM
#37
What did you use to hold the bolt while you were grinding it?
Sorry I was slow, but it appears to be my nature.
BTW, do you still have stock seats or did you replace them with a real racing seat? If you have the stock seat then returning the harness was a good idea because I found that the shoulder straps of the harness didn't do jack to hold me into a stock seat. However once I upgraded to a racing seat, the harness is a must have.
If you choose to repurchase a harness I can't recommond a cam-lock style latch strong enough. I have the latch-lock style cause I wanted to save $30/harness and I totally regret it. The latch lock is such a pain to belt in compared to the cam lock.
BTW, do you still have stock seats or did you replace them with a real racing seat? If you have the stock seat then returning the harness was a good idea because I found that the shoulder straps of the harness didn't do jack to hold me into a stock seat. However once I upgraded to a racing seat, the harness is a must have.
If you choose to repurchase a harness I can't recommond a cam-lock style latch strong enough. I have the latch-lock style cause I wanted to save $30/harness and I totally regret it. The latch lock is such a pain to belt in compared to the cam lock.
If they can't do anything, then I guess ACE hardware and possibly grinding the shoulder of the stock bolt are secondary options.
02-05-2009, 03:51 PM
#39
and compromised the safety of the harness.
Stroud said specifically NOT to do that.
It would have been nice to be told that these would not fit the stock bolts when I ordered them. Perhaps you should tell other customers that when they order.
Stroud said specifically NOT to do that.
It would have been nice to be told that these would not fit the stock bolts when I ordered them. Perhaps you should tell other customers that when they order.