Turn One Power Steering Pump
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I've been autox since Dec and have noticed my stock power steering pump whining and spewing a little fluid from the cap. I don't have a power steering cooler, although I hear those just cause problems and contaminate your coolant. Anyway, I've read up on the turn one PS pump in GM high performance and was curious if anyone has installed one with their pulley? If so, how was the install and is it a noticeable improvement? Thanks!
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I have a TO pump on my road race car (LT1) and do so, because I installed one on my old street/track day car.
When you idle the car around the grid or parking lot, the steering is a bit "heavy" and even notchy. But any RPM off idle makes it smooth out as if it were stock.
There is a local (local to DFW) steering component builder that refubs stock pumps to perform like Turn One pumps. They specialize in mud trucks, rock crawlers and monster truck builds and do a few pumps for sprint car, Modifieds, ARCA and NASCAR truck teams.
But a GM Saginaw pump is a Saginaw pump. We have 4 of them on customer cars (3 LSx cars and 1 LT1 car) and we are hearing of no complaints.
They aren't a sponsor here, so I can't Put Someone's Contact information in here without them being a sponsor.
For an LSx car, the pulley makes life so much easier getting the pump on and off.
When you idle the car around the grid or parking lot, the steering is a bit "heavy" and even notchy. But any RPM off idle makes it smooth out as if it were stock.
There is a local (local to DFW) steering component builder that refubs stock pumps to perform like Turn One pumps. They specialize in mud trucks, rock crawlers and monster truck builds and do a few pumps for sprint car, Modifieds, ARCA and NASCAR truck teams.
But a GM Saginaw pump is a Saginaw pump. We have 4 of them on customer cars (3 LSx cars and 1 LT1 car) and we are hearing of no complaints.
They aren't a sponsor here, so I can't Put Someone's Contact information in here without them being a sponsor.
For an LSx car, the pulley makes life so much easier getting the pump on and off.
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Cool - let us know how the install went. I'm probably going to go with their pulley as well. The shop manual recommends a mity vac for bleeding whereas the Haynes recommends turning the pully backwards with the engine off to remove bubbles, then start the car with the front off the ground and turn the wheel lock to lock until the fluid level stabalizes. I have a mityvac but not a cap that will fit over the PS cap...
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i did it today. dont bother with a vacuum. and you need to take your stock pulley off to remove the pump anyway, so getting the pulley isnt a big time saver. i took off a line at the lowest point i could, in the rack, and let it drain first. i had an old coolant tester, the kind with a tube, clear plastic case, and turkey baster bulb that i used to suck out the rest of the can.
my manual says to drain the coolant, but i dont see why. i did have to disconnect the power steering cooler though. dont know if your Z28 has one stock, but WS6s did. once you get into it, youll see why and where you have to disconnect it. that was the hardest part.
before you start, regardless if you have the new pulley or not, you will need a pulley remover AND installer. i found that out the hard way, and had to return a tool and buy another set. i found a very nice set for $30 at autozone. comes with a standard puller, and attachments for installing pulleys on different make cars. well worth the buy, even if you only use it once or twice. made by OEM, which is a better quality chinese import.
theres no way of getting the long bolts out of the pump housing without removing the pulley first: ergo you need to have the pulley off to get them back in. so i wouldnt bother buying the pulley. either way, if you dont have it, youll need a $30 tool for the job. save the money on the pulley for the tool.
my manual says to drain the coolant, but i dont see why. i did have to disconnect the power steering cooler though. dont know if your Z28 has one stock, but WS6s did. once you get into it, youll see why and where you have to disconnect it. that was the hardest part.
before you start, regardless if you have the new pulley or not, you will need a pulley remover AND installer. i found that out the hard way, and had to return a tool and buy another set. i found a very nice set for $30 at autozone. comes with a standard puller, and attachments for installing pulleys on different make cars. well worth the buy, even if you only use it once or twice. made by OEM, which is a better quality chinese import.
theres no way of getting the long bolts out of the pump housing without removing the pulley first: ergo you need to have the pulley off to get them back in. so i wouldnt bother buying the pulley. either way, if you dont have it, youll need a $30 tool for the job. save the money on the pulley for the tool.
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I'm curious to see how many events the stock pump takes.
I'm running a stock cooler, but I think the ASP underdrive pulley helps too. I attended an event this past weekend and it was hot as **** out....
The stock pump and cooler are holding up for now.
I'm also running red line water wetter, I think thats a must in south tx!
I'll be flushing the PS fluid with redline in another few events.
I'm running a stock cooler, but I think the ASP underdrive pulley helps too. I attended an event this past weekend and it was hot as **** out....
The stock pump and cooler are holding up for now.
I'm also running red line water wetter, I think thats a must in south tx!
I'll be flushing the PS fluid with redline in another few events.
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If you buy the TO pulley, it has holes in it...no need to remove it to access the pump mounting bolt.
I've been running mine w/ Amsoil ATF since 2004, at least 8 road course track days on it with no boil-overs or issues. We measured the fluid temp right off the road course at Memphis last Summer and it was consistently between 170-180degF. No aux cooler, either.
I've been running mine w/ Amsoil ATF since 2004, at least 8 road course track days on it with no boil-overs or issues. We measured the fluid temp right off the road course at Memphis last Summer and it was consistently between 170-180degF. No aux cooler, either.
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exactly. i could care less what SCCA thinks of my car. i have never, nor do i ever plan on running SCCA, and if i do, itll be a once in a blue moon thing. i bought my car brand new, and i dont care what a rulebook says. im going to do whatever i want with my car. if you want to hide it......take the sticker off any no one knows anything.
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i went to autozone. first the guy (who was totally clueless) brought out their loan-a-tool set, which had most of the threads already stripped and boogered up. he said it was $30 to rent it. i asked about buying, and they had the exact same set, brand new, for $30. so of course i bought it.
its made by OEM, which is a better quality ***** brand. the remover part looked and felt exactly the same as the first one i bought which was just the remover, and made by performance tool. the OEM also comes with attachments and different thread sizes for installing the pulley. for only $30 its worth it, as you can do other brand cars and different type pulleys.
its made by OEM, which is a better quality ***** brand. the remover part looked and felt exactly the same as the first one i bought which was just the remover, and made by performance tool. the OEM also comes with attachments and different thread sizes for installing the pulley. for only $30 its worth it, as you can do other brand cars and different type pulleys.
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exactly. i could care less what SCCA thinks of my car
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I feel the same way...but running it out there is the perfect place to learn how to drive, tune the car and have fun doing it safely!!!!!!
it's fun as ****...to compete with other cars who post similar times
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Now THIS is fun ...
http://vimeo.com/5177704
From races on Sunday ... the chase car is a Fox Mustang and I'm in the #9 white Firebird
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