EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

spring/shock is all you need, unless you start real racing. get them and you wont be sorry you did.

gears all depend on what tracks you run at. and how much you want to get into changing your car for it. im happy with my stock 3.42. if all i did was autox, which are most all very short, tight tracks, 4.10s would help get out of the corners, provided you have enough traction. 3.73 is always a good comprimise, not a huge difference between that and stock. if you hit real tracks often enough, and have some decent straights, keep it in the middle around 3.42 - 3.73. also remember LS1s make plenty of torque to pull out a slightly taller gear. with basic bolts on, exhaust and tune, i make 370 tq at the wheels.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Yeah - don't mess with gears. You'll be swapping sets for every track, because they're all different. Now, if you run 1 track, and the stock ones are horrible (shifting in weird places), then you may want to change. But, the best way to change your shift points is to attempt to go faster EVERYWHERE and then you'll be shifting at different places.

Springs/shocks, swaybars, brake pads, tires. That's about all I'd concentrate on. You'll be beating most street cars that show up if you do those things.

Mightymike2000ss

iTrader: (4)

some im gonna guess then the koni 4/3's with stranos are good. because thats the set up i plan on buying.... with brembos and hp plus's...... but im unsure of where to find calipers because im not doing a big brake kit..

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Leave your current calipers. The LS1 calipers are pretty good. About the only problem you could run into is that, after repeated track days, you could get some caliper spread. When you take off the pads, note if the outside of the pad is thinner than the inside (near the hub). Then you'll need to replace them.

Everything else looks good!

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

get a real set of track pads. unless its a short, tight track, youll overheat the HP+. i think trans ram himself is selling some used LS1 track pads on frrax.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

I already sold them. Sorry!

Track-only pads are a great investment. I can't tell you how nice it is to have brakes 5 laps into a session. After driving my G8GT (100% stock), I would get fade about 1/2 lap into a session. By 3 laps, my stopping distances were 25% longer - no exageration.

With my racecar, I have ZERO fade. My braking on the last lap is the same as the first - perhaps better. And, it's just pads and good fluid.

Mightymike2000ss

iTrader: (4)

thanks guys for the imput, so this is what i plan on doin.... running some koni shocks 4/3 with strano springs. brembo brakes with track only pads.... full suspension mods from Ws6 store..... what tires do you guys usually run out there because i plan on using my zr1's for track tires.... then getting some ttII's for the street and ****'s and giggle's

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Best thing is to buy take-off race tires. For between $50 and $75 per tire, you'll have almost-new race tires. They'll be 100x better than street tires for performance. And, they'll last longer. You'll get 3-4 track days out of a set of softer take offs (Hoosier A6s, Kumho V710s), and more out of the harder ones (Toyo RA1s, Hoosier R6s, Nittos).

Street tires tend to start chunking when they get overheated.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

i got 4 shipped for $340

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

what pressures did you run when you had these tires? if you ever ran the same ones i bought. i heard they need alot of camber to run correctly. i just installed adjustable upper arms and am in the process of figuring out the alignment specs.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Which brand tires did you get?

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

hoosier, supposed to be the harder compound. some of them used to have tread, and were either shaved or used till slicks. im thinking a hard comp. rain tire, if possible? they have 'koni' stamped into the sidewall, so whatever turner motorsports ran on their beamers in the koni challenge.

Blackfly

iTrader: (13)

So I have updated my list, Got to buy the big **** first, wont have a second chance. I figure it will be easier to save up for the wheels/tires etc than to try to save for some of the more expensive items.

1. Strange 12 bolt w/3.73's
2. C5 Brake Kit- C5/C6 Calipers
3. Pre-oiler/ oil cooler (need help w/ putting together a full kit so I can order)
4. Front and rear sway bars, Torque arm and drive shaft
5. Seat and harness

Next year, Wheels/ tires/ new springs/shocks and gauges.

As for the pre-oil/cooler system- I am not sure what all I will need. I would like to go with a EPC set-up. Can the sandwich method be used for this version? I will call accusump for some clarification.

any input is welcome

JD_AMG

Not only is this not necessary but its going to hurt your handling and ride quality. Your taking a step backwards here and money could be more wisely spent on other things first.
Not a bad idea but also not something needed first.
Heres one problem, before spending anymore money for suspension fix your biggest problem first: those sportlines. Sell them, burn them, throw them off a cliff, whatever gets the job done. They are useless for anything but looks and are going to be really holding you back. You would be better off on stock springs than these.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

it doesnt sound like hes taking much advice. more like he just has money burning a hole and wants to throw it at the car.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Oh, you've got what we call "GACs"! GAC = Grand Am Cup. Those are fun tires. Friend of mine ran them and loves them. Not the fastest in the world, but consistent as can be and long lasting.

They are essentially the same as the Hoosier R6. Almost the same internal construction. But, a slightly harder compound. They are not DOT rated, however treat them as if they were. Same alignment and such. -2 camber is probably more than enough.

Are they a 275 width? If so, then it is the EXACT same tire that he ran. They're slower than Kumhos, Hoosier A6s, and most slicks. They'll be faster than Toyos or Nittos, though.

Blackfly

iTrader: (13)

^^^ Noted.

I appreciate EVERYONE'S feed back

I have not spent any money yet.
I am listening.
I'm not interested in 1/4 mile, it's too boring.
I enjoy the short runs on the street/highway
I dont want to build the car Strictly for Road racing. I like taking my son for a ride on weekends and to car shows.

But I like having my cake and eating it too. SO. If I have to pull my stock seat out and swap for the road coarse once a month that's fine, or pull my nice show wheels for some track wheels that is fine too.
I put down 600RWHP w/ the giggle juice. 440 without. If I "reinforce" the 10 bolt will it hold up?

If I trash the 10 bolt racing, how much is a replacement... installed?

If I don't order the 12 bolt, that should free up some green for the springs/shocks.

And yes. The money is burning a hole in my pocket, If I don't spent it my wife will find a way to.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

275/40/17. i have -1.2 and 1.3 camber, if you read my post on frrax. i probably could get more, but its going to be alot of trial and error involving taking the entire front susp. apart, back together, repeat repeat.

ive only had one very tight autox on them so far. but they were better then my nearly worn out 615s. this sunday is my first track day with them, albiet on another tight road course.

so R6 pressures are a good start?

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

why would you swap seats? there are many aftermarket seats that are built for double duty. even some pure race seats can be more comfortable then a stock seat. do more research, see whats out there. there is no reason to swap a seat. my arizen has slots for my 5pt, and is more comfortable then my stock was, taking in consideration i had the full power TA seat, which many agree was more comfortable then a camaro.

for wheels.....duh. i have 3 sets of wheels im constantly swapping. i have streets, autox, and track rims, plus another set of bare rims just in case i want another option. everyone who gets the least bit serious about tracking swaps tires. not seats.



any autox or track you go to will require the complete removal of a NOS system. what you make on that doesnt matter, it wont be in the car anyway.

if done right, a built 10 bolt will last years and years. only people who professionally race actually go through them, and then its usually just the diffs that go. for anyone just doing track days and autox, within reason, youre not going to trash the rear. youre not drag racing. you dont have a standing start on super sticky tires, powershifting into 2nd and 3rd. no track day has a standing start, and any autox lot wont have the traction to do harm to a rear.

if you ever find yourself doing a drag launch, or having to powershift and slam gears on a track day, youre doing it wrong. you dont get faster by slamming gears. you get faster by learning the proper line through a curve, learning when and where to hit the brakes or gas.

my rear howls. why? because of the ONE time i spent drag racing at a race/car show. it was dead silent before. then after 6 passes on sumi tires, she howled. after all the autoxing or track days ive done, not once did it make my rear howl.

if you MUST mess with the rear, buy a stock 10 bolt, and build that. CM axles, quality gears, T2R or equivalent, TA girdle, longer ARP studs. keep your original stock just in case.

if youre dying to replace something, then the very FIRST thing you should do is get a turn one power steering pump with better fluid. ask me how i know.

you may need to hide money from your wife......thats not our problem. what we're doing is trying to tell you the right direction to specifically go, rather then replacing everything with a nut and bolt. i only race for fun, but you know how i learned? at the track, and research online. look at my above post. i asked 2000 Trans about the tires, because he used them and has past experience. im taking his advice, doing more research about the pressures, and going from there. when we're telling you about things like brakes, tires, rear end, its because we've been there, or at least have past exp. with these exact items.