What Cam for Road Racing
#1
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From: Bentonville, Arkansas
What Cam for Road Racing
I am in the process of doing a LS1 & T56 Swap into a 96 Camaro V6 Road race car amd am wondering what cam would be a good choice for this car.
The car will have long tube headders a modified computer no rear O2 or EGR and a 80 to 85 mm Throtle body. I believe that I would need a cam that makes excellant mid range power. Any advice would be helpful.
The car will have long tube headders a modified computer no rear O2 or EGR and a 80 to 85 mm Throtle body. I believe that I would need a cam that makes excellant mid range power. Any advice would be helpful.
#3
I would go with the ASA cam. I would use a lightweight flywheel and clutch, along with an aluminum 1LE driveshaft. I can definitely tell you that you will need a crankcase evacuation system or you will have massive oil consumption problems. The 1LE suspension components will also help, and I hear that KONI has some coil overs. If not, I would use H&R components. You could also go to the Goodridge brand stainless steel braided teflon brake lines. That'll firm up pedal feel. I use those and run Neo Synthetic Super DOT 610 brake fluid, that's completely flushed every year. 1LE hard rubber suspension bushings will also help. For rear end fluid I would use 75-90 fluid, in synthetic. You didn't say what your budget is, so I went low ball. There are others that are more knowledgable than me in this arena.
#4
For road race I would think you would want a cam with a smooth powerband. The TR224 114 is a great cam; makes power all over the curve and has a flat powerband, not a peaky one. It's a great midrange to high end cam.
I'd pass on the big throttle body; they are of little value unless you can get an intake manifold with a wider mouth.
I'd pass on the big throttle body; they are of little value unless you can get an intake manifold with a wider mouth.
#5
I looked at the ASA cam. Nice numbers but not a lot on the bottom end. And it likes to rev over 6K. That's not for me.
I have a TR220/114, putting 380/380 at teh wheels with over 350 ft/lbs of torque at 3500. It certainly pulls nice coming off the corners. A TR224 might work even better.
My $.02 ....
sawedoff ... I see you are in Ft. Worth ... where do you run? Several of us are gonna be at Motorsports Ranch this coming weekend
I have a TR220/114, putting 380/380 at teh wheels with over 350 ft/lbs of torque at 3500. It certainly pulls nice coming off the corners. A TR224 might work even better.
My $.02 ....
sawedoff ... I see you are in Ft. Worth ... where do you run? Several of us are gonna be at Motorsports Ranch this coming weekend
#6
Okay, I had looked at the ASA cam, the numbers do look good, but that lobe separation isn't good. Yes, I stand corrected on that. I had heard from others that said they use it, now whether thats' the truth who the hell knows.I figured it was an inside thang. I was just going by what they said they got from it, and I was surprised initially when I did see the numbers and the lobe separation angle.
Mitch, I have never been to the Ranch. Private message me all the particulars, I 'd love to come out.
Mitch, I have never been to the Ranch. Private message me all the particulars, I 'd love to come out.
#7
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From: Bentonville, Arkansas
Originally Posted by sawedoff
I would go with the ASA cam. I would use a lightweight flywheel and clutch, along with an aluminum 1LE driveshaft. I can definitely tell you that you will need a crankcase evacuation system or you will have massive oil consumption problems. The 1LE suspension components will also help, and I hear that KONI has some coil overs. If not, I would use H&R components. You could also go to the Goodridge brand stainless steel braided teflon brake lines. That'll firm up pedal feel. I use those and run Neo Synthetic Super DOT 610 brake fluid, that's completely flushed every year. 1LE hard rubber suspension bushings will also help. For rear end fluid I would use 75-90 fluid, in synthetic. You didn't say what your budget is, so I went low ball. There are others that are more knowledgable than me in this arena.
How do you do the crankcase evacuation system I can see that there could be a problem? I am already running a 3qt accusump but that is for low oil pressure issues. I don't have a LW Flywheel or clutch yet but I agree that that would make sense. I already have Ground control and KONI adjustable shocks and poly bushings and larger sway bars. As far as handleing this car is on a rail. I only use Red Line fluids and find that they serve me the best. The only complaint that I have is that my ABS is too slow to react in hard braking and I will slightly skid the tires going hard into corners.
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#8
The only way I'd do a crank evac system, and that would be to use a pump. You can mount it using the extra brackets from the air pump or the A/C system. There will be some custom fabrication involved. Be conservative with the amount of vaccum you use until you get a feel for it and monitor the engine.It will eliminate oil consumption problems that are common and will definitely inrease horspower. Too much and you will burn up your top end, by sucking all the oil out of it, or you can collapse the oil pan, and suck in gaskets. Here are a couple of links that sell these systems. The Moroso unit is a nice one, but has a $700 tag, the other one is from Cands Specialties. Theirs' is pretty good to. I would call them and they will be more than helpful on the installation.
www.moroso.com
www.candsspecialties.com
www.moroso.com
www.candsspecialties.com