Carbotech ?'s
Carbotech ?'s I'm getting ready to pick up some Carbotechs for my T/A and just wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions. I know most people stagger them and right now I'm leaning towards XP10/XP8 Front/Rear, just wanted to see what other people are running.
The car is the Trans Am in my sig and it's no lightweight.probably between 3600-3700 lb's, 570 rwhp. It's not daily driven so noise/dust isn't much of a concern. It sees auto-x fairly regularly, some very long and aggressive back road driving, and will see some open track days this year.
I'm also flushing my brake lines too, any recomendations on fluid?
Thanks
The car is the Trans Am in my sig and it's no lightweight.probably between 3600-3700 lb's, 570 rwhp. It's not daily driven so noise/dust isn't much of a concern. It sees auto-x fairly regularly, some very long and aggressive back road driving, and will see some open track days this year.
I'm also flushing my brake lines too, any recomendations on fluid?
Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: gilbertsville, PA
10 and 8 worked fine during novice sessions. ATE super blue has a high boiling point both dry and wet, and doesn't break the bank. I'm running 12's up front now and may move up to 16's, as I only got 2 weekends out of the 12's.
with 570 at the wheels, i'd be looking to upgrade the entire brake system. The KORE3 corvette kit is pretty nice and reasonably priced. There's also the Bob Bishop bracket set that you can get from the frrax.com site. you can put c6 calipers on it. they hold up better than the c5's.
with 570 at the wheels, i'd be looking to upgrade the entire brake system. The KORE3 corvette kit is pretty nice and reasonably priced. There's also the Bob Bishop bracket set that you can get from the frrax.com site. you can put c6 calipers on it. they hold up better than the c5's.
Bigger brakes would be nice, but at this point I think I'd rather keep my eyes peeled for a cheap C5 roller and turn that into a track car. I've never been able to make up my mind on whether I wanted to set up my T/A for curves or for straight lines so right now it's just mediocre at both.
Super blue, stainless lines if you don't already, and given your extra weight you may consider XP12s in front. BUT, if you really don't mash the pedal hard when you drive spirited the 10s will be plenty. Be aware, these are noisy pads even with anti-squeal, it helps a lot but isn't 100%. you may want to look into some sort of brake cooling, they like some heat to work well, but if not properly cooled will glaze (like all pads). I glaze my pads after every track session (i'm now a pro brake tech on my vette :o ), and last time i checked the pads on my street camaro they were glazed as well. Just something to think about
SS lines are going on when I flush the system. I've seen the Castrol SRF before but I don't think my needs will justify $90 brake fluid. I'm running Motul for my clutch right now since I was having a problem with my clutch fluid heating up so I might run that for my brakes too, but I'm going to look in to the Super Blue. I was also going to try to figure out some sort of brake ducting while i'm in there
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Christ..... YOu guy'sare running Castrol SRF? WTF?
I've got Motul RBF 660, and my god I love it.
As far as brakes... well, I have a slow car so I have no need for anything more than stock calipers, solid rotors and a healthy supply of Hawks brake pads...
I've got Motul RBF 660, and my god I love it.
As far as brakes... well, I have a slow car so I have no need for anything more than stock calipers, solid rotors and a healthy supply of Hawks brake pads...
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Brett Foote Switching to SRF is a tough check to write. But I have found that its actually less expensive to use than Motul or SuperBlue.
During a weekend, I would have to bleed my brakes Saturday night when I was running Motul or SB fluid. I just cooked the fluid. It would come out green and slimey.
Louis Gigliotti talked me into using a bottle of SRF and it was night and day difference. The only fluid I bleed now is when I replace brake pads about twice a year. I open the bleeder screw when I push the pistons back into the calipers and then top off the MC.
That regiment began in 06. So, I've spent $180 in brake fluid in almost 4 years and I still have about 1/2 the 2nd bottle on the shelf.
And the REAL benefit is I don't have to fuss with bleeding brakes at all. It allows me to concentrate on more important stuff, like shade and gatorade.
During a weekend, I would have to bleed my brakes Saturday night when I was running Motul or SB fluid. I just cooked the fluid. It would come out green and slimey.
Louis Gigliotti talked me into using a bottle of SRF and it was night and day difference. The only fluid I bleed now is when I replace brake pads about twice a year. I open the bleeder screw when I push the pistons back into the calipers and then top off the MC.
That regiment began in 06. So, I've spent $180 in brake fluid in almost 4 years and I still have about 1/2 the 2nd bottle on the shelf.
And the REAL benefit is I don't have to fuss with bleeding brakes at all. It allows me to concentrate on more important stuff, like shade and gatorade.
i bleed after every session...also pull my pads after every session to get the glaze off 
My rotor temps at the last race were 1432 degrees F. Apparently others have seen up to 1600. This winter we are finally getting old world challenge rules to play with (4 piston max front/rear) with 2 piece rotors with aluminum hats, so next year I'll get to save $ on pads and fluids with the new setups
My rotor temps at the last race were 1432 degrees F. Apparently others have seen up to 1600. This winter we are finally getting old world challenge rules to play with (4 piston max front/rear) with 2 piece rotors with aluminum hats, so next year I'll get to save $ on pads and fluids with the new setups
Interesting. I use Wilwood 570. No boil, no fade, and outbrake everyone on track (well, except that damn GT3 Cup). I flush the system once per year, and check the MC level before every race (didn't crack the cap open in 8 races last year).
i bleed after every session...also pull my pads after every session to get the glaze off
My rotor temps at the last race were 1432 degrees F. Apparently others have seen up to 1600. This winter we are finally getting old world challenge rules to play with (4 piston max front/rear) with 2 piece rotors with aluminum hats, so next year I'll get to save $ on pads and fluids with the new setups
My rotor temps at the last race were 1432 degrees F. Apparently others have seen up to 1600. This winter we are finally getting old world challenge rules to play with (4 piston max front/rear) with 2 piece rotors with aluminum hats, so next year I'll get to save $ on pads and fluids with the new setups
I'll clarify so no one confuses anything...
I do not boil the SRF. Every time I bleed after my sessions the fluid is clear. I bleed so I get my stiff pedal back (if not just for the lap and a half it stays firm
). Literally between every session I have to clean up my pads due to insufficient cooling; heat which radiates through the rotors, into the calipers, and killing my pads (and pedal). But the coolant is good...just WAY overkill for a street car that does a little auto-x and a couple DEs. Super Blue works great in my street camaro and is pretty cheap too
what car? and what level of prep? I love rally and would like to get into it, but I can only do so much and spend so much $ 
i have tossed around the idea of finding an older salvage title audi or wrx and go have fun in it
Well, at the moment I'm picking up a bone stock '98 Subaru Forester. I'll use that in the Rallycross events until I can pick up some sort of sponsorship for both Autocross and Rallycross. In which case I'll probably move into a more rally specific type car, for starters like a '87 Nissan 200sx that I'll have full rally prep. At least, stripped, caged, tube frame, 5 point harnes. Probably a decent winter or all terrain tire until I start getting better and get spend better money on good parts.
