What should I do to increase high-speed stability (Autobahn driving)
03-02-2010, 11:48 AM
#21
On The Tree
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lacey, WA (JBLM)
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very cool thread.
Out of curiosity, what does it cost to get a car to Germany?
NATA SS I've been discussing it with a friend, What does it take to get a WS6 trans am over 200 MPH reliably. I'm planning a set of 3:50 rear end gears, and about 700 HP to the rears. my suspension, brakes, etc are all squared away. (koni's strano's etc.)
Out of curiosity, what does it cost to get a car to Germany?
NATA SS I've been discussing it with a friend, What does it take to get a WS6 trans am over 200 MPH reliably. I'm planning a set of 3:50 rear end gears, and about 700 HP to the rears. my suspension, brakes, etc are all squared away. (koni's strano's etc.)
American Auto Logistics
1 Maynard Drive
3rd Floor
Park Ridge, NJ 07656
Fax: (618)931-2892
I shipped my car from St. Louis, but this is the contact information I found in my paperwork. The address follows:
4236 Crescent Drive
Pontoon Beach, IL 62040
Hours: MON-FRI 0800-1600
Sorry, I don't have a phone number. Hope this helps.
Sorry OP.
03-10-2010, 03:29 AM
#25
Very cool thread.
Out of curiosity, what does it cost to get a car to Germany?
NATA SS I've been discussing it with a friend, What does it take to get a WS6 trans am over 200 MPH reliably. I'm planning a set of 3:50 rear end gears, and about 700 HP to the rears. my suspension, brakes, etc are all squared away. (koni's strano's etc.)
Out of curiosity, what does it cost to get a car to Germany?
NATA SS I've been discussing it with a friend, What does it take to get a WS6 trans am over 200 MPH reliably. I'm planning a set of 3:50 rear end gears, and about 700 HP to the rears. my suspension, brakes, etc are all squared away. (koni's strano's etc.)
Very cool thread.
Out of curiosity, what does it cost to get a car to Germany?
NATA SS I've been discussing it with a friend, What does it take to get a WS6 trans am over 200 MPH reliably. I'm planning a set of 3:50 rear end gears, and about 700 HP to the rears. my suspension, brakes, etc are all squared away. (koni's strano's etc.)
Out of curiosity, what does it cost to get a car to Germany?
NATA SS I've been discussing it with a friend, What does it take to get a WS6 trans am over 200 MPH reliably. I'm planning a set of 3:50 rear end gears, and about 700 HP to the rears. my suspension, brakes, etc are all squared away. (koni's strano's etc.)
From my experience (not in a fbody), shortening your tires sidewalls increases stability, IE from a 275/40/17 to a 275/30-35/18. Speed rating is paramount.
BRAKES!!! I know nothing about the GM slider calipers...get some pads at the very least. Don't waste your money on BS drilled/slotted rotors. You'll be really envious of the german cars braking abilities...which means you'll spend big money eventually. BUT yes, getting hard on the binders over 150 is NO FUN if you weren't planning on it.
I don't know what front splitters we're all talking about, but even a .75'' to 1.5'' lip is dramatically beneficial up to certain speeds...again speaking from experience. I don't know if you'll see any speeds over 170 (which by the way on a public highway feels like 270). It doesn't seem like you're building a texas mile car, you sound like you want something comfortable and still be able to hang with the big dogs safely. I imagine a factory rear spoiler with a small aero aid up front along with tires, lowering, alignment, AND TIRES.
My car sees 160+ frequently, I have hit the rev limiter in top gear with stock suspension/stock body, hit it again after lowering to 3.75'' GC, hit it again with a rear spoiler, then again with a front chin splitter.
-Stock body/suspension felt OK, but my knuckles went white whenever I accelerated above 140.
-Lowering helped, not dramatically, but the car feels more solid.
-After adding the rear spoiler the car feels much less "light".
-Once all of these things were done and good tires were on, I can now remove my hands from the steering wheel at 155 mph. I've made the mistake doing it with a passenger in the car
. Stability is a beautiful thing.Make changes one at a time so you can feel the difference. You don't need any crazy aero aids, just a few tasteful factory appearing add ons and did I mention tires?
If you were moving faster than 180, than yeah, you don't want any more down force...but what you DO need is to reduce lift.
Best of luck
03-10-2010, 05:56 PM
#26
Launching!
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Weston, WV
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll have to blame the I phone on that double clicking doesn't generally result in that.. did't know it was doing that, Sorry.
what car do you drive? is it an F-Body? 6 speed... or auto, curious about the rev limiter.
what car do you drive? is it an F-Body? 6 speed... or auto, curious about the rev limiter.
03-12-2010, 01:42 PM
#28
Just a light H/C car. I'm in UT, we've got about 6 guys that push it early Saturday and Sunday mornings out west...still haven't had any run ins with UHP...yet.
With a 9.31 RP, and a .75 5th on a 26'' tire and a 7000 rpm limiter it should be right around 185ish. The stock motor was a 6850 rpm limiter with the factory "chip", and it was on 255/40/17's, so around 175 first time around. No speedo with my conversion yet. Makes things interesting around town.
I can't tell you how much stability those few things added. ESPECIALLY the lip under the front bumper. Again you aren't trying to create down force...only reduce lift caused by the shape of the cars. Think about it, most cars are the shape of a wing, relatively flat on the bottom and round on the top. The objective is to keep air from causing lift and turbulence UNDER the car.
I'm not suggesting for you to add anything dis-tasteful, just minor (factory looking) aero aids.
Let us know what your experience is with the high speed mods, I'm sure you aren't the only with with this objective. Good luck
With a 9.31 RP, and a .75 5th on a 26'' tire and a 7000 rpm limiter it should be right around 185ish. The stock motor was a 6850 rpm limiter with the factory "chip", and it was on 255/40/17's, so around 175 first time around. No speedo with my conversion yet. Makes things interesting around town.
I can't tell you how much stability those few things added. ESPECIALLY the lip under the front bumper. Again you aren't trying to create down force...only reduce lift caused by the shape of the cars. Think about it, most cars are the shape of a wing, relatively flat on the bottom and round on the top. The objective is to keep air from causing lift and turbulence UNDER the car.
I'm not suggesting for you to add anything dis-tasteful, just minor (factory looking) aero aids.
Let us know what your experience is with the high speed mods, I'm sure you aren't the only with with this objective. Good luck
03-13-2010, 09:57 AM
#29
TECH Resident
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Mehlingen, Germany
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just a light H/C car. I'm in UT, we've got about 6 guys that push it early Saturday and Sunday mornings out west...still haven't had any run ins with UHP...yet.
With a 9.31 RP, and a .75 5th on a 26'' tire and a 7000 rpm limiter it should be right around 185ish. The stock motor was a 6850 rpm limiter with the factory "chip", and it was on 255/40/17's, so around 175 first time around. No speedo with my conversion yet. Makes things interesting around town.
With a 9.31 RP, and a .75 5th on a 26'' tire and a 7000 rpm limiter it should be right around 185ish. The stock motor was a 6850 rpm limiter with the factory "chip", and it was on 255/40/17's, so around 175 first time around. No speedo with my conversion yet. Makes things interesting around town.
03-13-2010, 01:45 PM
#30
03-13-2010, 06:41 PM
#32
03-27-2010, 10:08 PM
#33
Staging Lane
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure if this will help you but i noticed in my 65 impala it started to float around 100-120 or so I lowered the front better tires and bigger sway bars. BUT the single biggest impovment was adjusting the hood hinges in the back so the rear of the hood stuck up an inch or so I believe this vented HI pressure air from in front of the firewall-uder the front floor pan area, I think it was lifting from that point as i wondered why? only the front came up. after the adjustment i could get to 140-155 according to the gps before the shear aerodynamic footprint will require some major surgery
08-04-2010, 08:57 PM
#35
You mean, like this (sorry, not an F-Body 
):
):I can't tell you how much stability those few things added. ESPECIALLY the lip under the front bumper. Again you aren't trying to create down force...only reduce lift caused by the shape of the cars. Think about it, most cars are the shape of a wing, relatively flat on the bottom and round on the top. The objective is to keep air from causing lift and turbulence UNDER the car.
08-13-2010, 05:32 AM
#37
TECH Fanatic
I use a front splitter & rear wing on my Holden Commodore road racing, while it is still my street car on circuit it is completely stable, i hear others who use their street cars complain of feeling the front of their car start to float i have no issues.
Forget your adj konis shocks....use a properly setup set of adj Bilsteins that will give you minimal rear lift under braking & traction out of corners etc.
3deg neg camber L/F R/F for a street car will get you around corners better.
Strut brace will help stiffen the front
Forget your adj konis shocks....use a properly setup set of adj Bilsteins that will give you minimal rear lift under braking & traction out of corners etc.
3deg neg camber L/F R/F for a street car will get you around corners better.
Strut brace will help stiffen the front
Last edited by ls1 1990 VN; 08-13-2010 at 05:44 AM. Reason: This for circuit not auto Bahn
