LS1 Miata - First Race at Laguna Seca
06-07-2010, 07:03 PM
#22
The "plate" part of the hub actually spun off the "shaft" part of the hub. Here's a picture:
The new V8Roadsters hub (picture below) has a significantly thicker plate portion and the interface between the plate and shaft portion is also thicker at the intersection. I don't have a picture of the entire hub that sheared to show the difference, unfortunately.
On the stock (and previous v8r) hubs, the wheels studs sat on the face of the plate. As you can see in the picture above, the head of the stud is reccessed - that shows the extra thickness of the plate.
The bearings were in fine shape. And, the axle nut was still torqued to spec. I mentioned in another thread that I believe I contributed to this failure by running the car on a chassis dyno without the axle nut properly tightened/torqued. It wouldn't surprise me if there was some wobble in the hub and that weakened it right off the bat.
I don't know for sure, but I believe the material used in this version of the hub is stronger than what was used in the first generation of hubs, as well. The hub comes just as it is shown in my hand. It uses stock miata bearings (which I repack with better grease) which I pressed into the upright, then pressed in the new hub.
I'll report back on how things go.
Cheers,
Dean
The new V8Roadsters hub (picture below) has a significantly thicker plate portion and the interface between the plate and shaft portion is also thicker at the intersection. I don't have a picture of the entire hub that sheared to show the difference, unfortunately.
On the stock (and previous v8r) hubs, the wheels studs sat on the face of the plate. As you can see in the picture above, the head of the stud is reccessed - that shows the extra thickness of the plate.
The bearings were in fine shape. And, the axle nut was still torqued to spec. I mentioned in another thread that I believe I contributed to this failure by running the car on a chassis dyno without the axle nut properly tightened/torqued. It wouldn't surprise me if there was some wobble in the hub and that weakened it right off the bat.
I don't know for sure, but I believe the material used in this version of the hub is stronger than what was used in the first generation of hubs, as well. The hub comes just as it is shown in my hand. It uses stock miata bearings (which I repack with better grease) which I pressed into the upright, then pressed in the new hub.
I'll report back on how things go.
Cheers,
Dean
On another note..am I going to see you out there this weekend?
06-07-2010, 08:44 PM
#23
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Thanks, Brother! I'm planning on going MUCH faster next time out... splitter and wing are just about complete!
Not going to be out at Laguna this weekend
Work in Orlando until Friday night. My next event is NASA at Infineon in a few weeks.
Not going to be out at Laguna this weekend
Work in Orlando until Friday night. My next event is NASA at Infineon in a few weeks. 
06-07-2010, 10:29 PM
#25
Really, geeez; you guys are making me paranoid. Thought that upgrading half shafts & new hub studs was gonna keep her safe. Now, I gotta check hub flanges all of the time.
EDIT:
dfastbear, did you see my post about the hub stud option (last post on the previous page)?
Last edited by LS1-450; 06-08-2010 at 12:30 AM. Reason: added EDIT question
06-09-2010, 06:32 AM
#27
What width spacer were you using between the outer CV & the back side of the hub bearing? The spacer not only sets up inner CV bearing travel, but, also effects how much of the splined hub sleeve goes un-supported. How much of the splined sleeve on the hub was un-supported by the splined shaft?(dimension from the back of the axle nut to the face of the splined portion of the axle shaft inside the hub sleeve; amount of threaded shaft inside the splined hub sleeve)? Obviously, the threaded end of the axle is smaller than the splined portion of the axle shaft. So, the threaded portion of the axle shaft does not support the sleeved portion of the hub. The further back the threaded part of the axle shaft protrudes into the hub sleeve, the more overhung load there is on the corner where the hub sleeve becomes the hub face. Another contributor is other than stock offset wheels. What offset wheel are you running? Anything under +42mm is going to increase the radial load on the hub flange. This is not as much of a contributor to an un-supported hub sleeve, but, is a contributor.
Am just trying to figure out the conditions surrounding the failure. Thanks
Am just trying to figure out the conditions surrounding the failure. Thanks
