camber bolt slipping
08-28-2010, 09:49 AM
#1
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camber bolt slipping Anyone having problems keeping the camber adjusting bolt on the lower a-arm from slipping? Is this a special bolt from the factory or should i be able to easily find something to replace it? Im thinking about replacing it and using a locking washer with the teeth on it to really grab it. Maybe even a small tack weld to make sure it doesnt slip.
08-28-2010, 08:38 PM
#2
Yes ... mine will slip. I do two things.
After an alignment, I spray white paint over the bolt head and mark it with a sharpie, so that if it moves, I can get my alignment back.
Two, I tighten the holy crap out of the camber bolt. I mean, holy crap, tight.
After an alignment, I spray white paint over the bolt head and mark it with a sharpie, so that if it moves, I can get my alignment back.
Two, I tighten the holy crap out of the camber bolt. I mean, holy crap, tight.
08-29-2010, 06:33 PM
#3
One thing worth mentioning is that there is some risk associated with "holy crap" tightening the camber bolt.
The knuckle becomes the weak link in the chain. If you curb it and the camber bolt doesn't slip, you run the risk of bending the knuckle.
The knuckle becomes the weak link in the chain. If you curb it and the camber bolt doesn't slip, you run the risk of bending the knuckle.
09-05-2010, 11:16 AM
#6
My Rx7 does that. If you replace the bolts it will normally help. I found the bolts get a bit stretchy over time. But if you have a lot of g's you have to put a spot weld on the cam adjuster. You can try roughing up the surface between the cam adjuster and the subframe, but I know we had to spot weld them to keep them put.
09-13-2010, 05:29 PM
#7
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Sorry guys forgot to get back and say what I did to fix it lol.
I simply cleaned all surfaces with brake cleaner, put the nut in a vice and hammered some knicks in the surface to "grab" the A-arm better. This worked perfect and didnt require me overtightening the bolt to where the A-arm started to distort under the pressure.
I simply cleaned all surfaces with brake cleaner, put the nut in a vice and hammered some knicks in the surface to "grab" the A-arm better. This worked perfect and didnt require me overtightening the bolt to where the A-arm started to distort under the pressure.
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10-07-2010, 04:52 PM
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I race a car that is based upon a C5 as far as suspension and I have a "slug kit" in development right now. It has been on the car for quite some time and it works beautifully.
Basically what it is is a bunch of small plates that have different offset holes laser cut into them. This allows you to change the suspension settings by changing out the plates. Then once the settings are correct and everything is tightened down, nothing can move out of alignment.
If there is enough interest, I can become a vendor and tell you where you can find this slug kit. This is very similar to some of the other performance Vette retailers products, but since I am primarily a racer and not dependent upon these parts sales to make a living, I can offer them much cheaper.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
Basically what it is is a bunch of small plates that have different offset holes laser cut into them. This allows you to change the suspension settings by changing out the plates. Then once the settings are correct and everything is tightened down, nothing can move out of alignment.
If there is enough interest, I can become a vendor and tell you where you can find this slug kit. This is very similar to some of the other performance Vette retailers products, but since I am primarily a racer and not dependent upon these parts sales to make a living, I can offer them much cheaper.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
10-07-2010, 11:14 PM
#9
I race a car that is based upon a C5 as far as suspension and I have a "slug kit" in development right now. It has been on the car for quite some time and it works beautifully.
Basically what it is is a bunch of small plates that have different offset holes laser cut into them. This allows you to change the suspension settings by changing out the plates. Then once the settings are correct and everything is tightened down, nothing can move out of alignment.
If there is enough interest, I can become a vendor and tell you where you can find this slug kit. This is very similar to some of the other performance Vette retailers products, but since I am primarily a racer and not dependent upon these parts sales to make a living, I can offer them much cheaper.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
Basically what it is is a bunch of small plates that have different offset holes laser cut into them. This allows you to change the suspension settings by changing out the plates. Then once the settings are correct and everything is tightened down, nothing can move out of alignment.
If there is enough interest, I can become a vendor and tell you where you can find this slug kit. This is very similar to some of the other performance Vette retailers products, but since I am primarily a racer and not dependent upon these parts sales to make a living, I can offer them much cheaper.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
10-08-2010, 06:43 AM
#10
I race a car that is based upon a C5 as far as suspension and I have a "slug kit" in development right now. It has been on the car for quite some time and it works beautifully.
Basically what it is is a bunch of small plates that have different offset holes laser cut into them. This allows you to change the suspension settings by changing out the plates. Then once the settings are correct and everything is tightened down, nothing can move out of alignment.
If there is enough interest, I can become a vendor and tell you where you can find this slug kit. This is very similar to some of the other performance Vette retailers products, but since I am primarily a racer and not dependent upon these parts sales to make a living, I can offer them much cheaper.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
Basically what it is is a bunch of small plates that have different offset holes laser cut into them. This allows you to change the suspension settings by changing out the plates. Then once the settings are correct and everything is tightened down, nothing can move out of alignment.
If there is enough interest, I can become a vendor and tell you where you can find this slug kit. This is very similar to some of the other performance Vette retailers products, but since I am primarily a racer and not dependent upon these parts sales to make a living, I can offer them much cheaper.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
10-08-2010, 10:00 AM
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Alright, thanks guys. I only make a few $$ off these and have some other postings of products you may be interested in, see here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...0-cv-stub.html
Obviously I need sufficient interest to cover my costs if becoming a vendor. Let me know if these other parts sound at all interesting also.
Thanks.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...0-cv-stub.html
Obviously I need sufficient interest to cover my costs if becoming a vendor. Let me know if these other parts sound at all interesting also.
Thanks.
Last edited by crash3; 10-08-2010 at 10:05 AM.
10-11-2010, 11:06 AM
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Well, with the fear that I may be crossing the line, here's a picture. Let's just say that it isn't a cheap part, and hence the reason I am trying to see if there is a market beyond the racing that I do. It converts a Vette wheel hub to a 930 CV bolt pattern so that "standard" Porsche 930 CVs and axles can be used in mid engined car applications. Otherwise one is left with a custom axle, which usually is the weakest link in a half-shaft setup, that is also very expensive. My way of thinking is that you pay up for this part once, and then since the other parts that are likely to break are "standard" it is cheaper to fix down the road. Also it appears that the Porsche 930 CVs are stronger than the Vette stuff, but I am still testing on the track to make sure these parts or as strong or stronger than the Vette stuff.
Again, if there is enough interest, I may consider building the inner Vette hub as well, so that the off the shelf stuff can be used in place of the OEM GM stuff. Axles, for my setup, are about $100 each from a number of online retailers. That's WAY cheaper than a vette axle "unit" from the dealer. And if they're stronger to boot....
It also allows me to carry fewer spare parts in my race trailer.
Again, if there is enough interest, I may consider building the inner Vette hub as well, so that the off the shelf stuff can be used in place of the OEM GM stuff. Axles, for my setup, are about $100 each from a number of online retailers. That's WAY cheaper than a vette axle "unit" from the dealer. And if they're stronger to boot....
It also allows me to carry fewer spare parts in my race trailer.
Last edited by crash3; 10-11-2010 at 11:16 AM.
