Stock bottom end HPDE car, what mods?
#1
Stock bottom end HPDE car, what mods?
I am gonna take the high mile(198,000) longblock out of my car and install a 57,000 mile stock 2000 model shortblock with LS6 heads, cam and intake on top.
I plan on shifting the car like I have been, 5000 rpm by the tach which is probably 5500 actual rpm.
Would you put in Katech rod bolts, a different timing chain and Improved Racing Baffle? This is $500 worth of parts without gaskets.
This is also a street car, maybe a few SCCA events. 4 or so HPDE events a year.
How many of you guys are on stock shortblocks and have been for a good while?
Opinions?
I plan on shifting the car like I have been, 5000 rpm by the tach which is probably 5500 actual rpm.
Would you put in Katech rod bolts, a different timing chain and Improved Racing Baffle? This is $500 worth of parts without gaskets.
This is also a street car, maybe a few SCCA events. 4 or so HPDE events a year.
How many of you guys are on stock shortblocks and have been for a good while?
Opinions?
#2
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nothing wrong with installing an LS2 chain and if you don't already have it get an improved racing baffle..yes to rod bolts (and remember they are 1 time torque only). you can also do the LS7 filter mod to your pan when it's off
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If you are tearing into the engine - do all the things that you will WANT in the long run. This will add piece of mind.
If you are simply swapping engines without tearing into the engine, I would simply run a little extra oil to help with starvation due to the long, banked turns.
If you are simply swapping engines without tearing into the engine, I would simply run a little extra oil to help with starvation due to the long, banked turns.
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They should..i don't remember any differences between ls6 vs ls1 injectors besides flow amount 26# vs 28# iirc between the fbodies that did and didn't have the LS6 intake man.
do a search, you can modify your oil pan to accept an LS7 filter. The LS7 filter always keeps oil in it when the car is off so on startup there is no chance of having an 'empty' filter for that split second. may have to search corvette forum, i can't remember. i bought a pan with it done already and just switched out my baffle to the new one
do a search, you can modify your oil pan to accept an LS7 filter. The LS7 filter always keeps oil in it when the car is off so on startup there is no chance of having an 'empty' filter for that split second. may have to search corvette forum, i can't remember. i bought a pan with it done already and just switched out my baffle to the new one
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I would NEVER EVER EVER replace rod-bolts without machining the rods.. Just asking for trouble IMO.. I dont care how many people have successfully done a rod-bolt swap, its not worth the chance of failure.
If your only shifting at 5500RPM, the stock rod bolts will be fine, and IMO will most likely be a LOT more reliable.
If your only shifting at 5500RPM, the stock rod bolts will be fine, and IMO will most likely be a LOT more reliable.
#10
I would NEVER EVER EVER replace rod-bolts without machining the rods.. Just asking for trouble IMO.. I dont care how many people have successfully done a rod-bolt swap, its not worth the chance of failure.
If your only shifting at 5500RPM, the stock rod bolts will be fine, and IMO will most likely be a LOT more reliable.
If your only shifting at 5500RPM, the stock rod bolts will be fine, and IMO will most likely be a LOT more reliable.
I will put the baffle in, thats seems to be a no brainer.
I MIGHT leave the the cam that it already has in there. The engine has an unknown cam in it. Was tuned with LS6 injectors and intake, I have the injectors and intake. I am also getting the tuned ecm with it.
So, if I get the engine and ECM, put the headers, ory, LS6 intake and injectors on it, it will be a plug and play deal. Trying to save some money.
OR, Make it an LS6, I have all the stuff....heads, cam, intake, pushrods.
With the headers and ory you would think it would make the same power(ish), torque is probably better down low with the LS6. But this would require gaskets and a tune.
Cant make up my mind.
Help a brutha out here.
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I would NEVER EVER EVER replace rod-bolts without machining the rods.. Just asking for trouble IMO.. I dont care how many people have successfully done a rod-bolt swap, its not worth the chance of failure.
If your only shifting at 5500RPM, the stock rod bolts will be fine, and IMO will most likely be a LOT more reliable.
If your only shifting at 5500RPM, the stock rod bolts will be fine, and IMO will most likely be a LOT more reliable.
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With a stock '99 shortblock running upgraded rod bolts, LS2 Tchain, ported LS6 oil pump, and ported AFR 205cc heads/LS6 intake'TSP 233/239 cam, headers/tune I daily drove and did a handful of open track days with no issues. Always put in 7 quarts into the oil pan when road racing. If you have the money put an Accusump on it. If not get the Improved Racing oil pan baffle.... or both!
I spun my motor to 7100rpm when I need to pass someone and typically shifted at 6600rpm normally. Motor lasted 20K miles without issues when I had it.
Shifting at 5500rpm is low even with a stock cam. Install a better cam while you are at it and some better valve springs.
I spun my motor to 7100rpm when I need to pass someone and typically shifted at 6600rpm normally. Motor lasted 20K miles without issues when I had it.
Shifting at 5500rpm is low even with a stock cam. Install a better cam while you are at it and some better valve springs.
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What's a set of rod bolts? $100 maybe? What's the cost to blow an engine and rebuild or buy a new one? I've been there done that. Replace them regardless IMHO.
My last motor that blew went because the builder re-used the Katech rod bolts (if he would have asked me, or I would've thought I needed to actually tell him this, I would have had new ones in the motor). They backed out, hit the block, BOOM. I'm in the wall on fire and it looked like a grenade went off in my oil pan.
But hey, it's your $..
My last motor that blew went because the builder re-used the Katech rod bolts (if he would have asked me, or I would've thought I needed to actually tell him this, I would have had new ones in the motor). They backed out, hit the block, BOOM. I'm in the wall on fire and it looked like a grenade went off in my oil pan.
But hey, it's your $..
#17
SIK02SS,
I've searched quite a bit, but haven't found anything related to modifying a pan to accept a LS7 oil filter. Got any more details or links or better search terms?
EDIT: After more searching, are you refering to an oil filter adapter, like the one here:
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=358039
GTO - 12552357
G8/Corvette - 12600225
That allows you to use the PF48 filter?
Thanks,
--JMarsa
I've searched quite a bit, but haven't found anything related to modifying a pan to accept a LS7 oil filter. Got any more details or links or better search terms?
EDIT: After more searching, are you refering to an oil filter adapter, like the one here:
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=358039
GTO - 12552357
G8/Corvette - 12600225
That allows you to use the PF48 filter?
Thanks,
--JMarsa
They should..i don't remember any differences between ls6 vs ls1 injectors besides flow amount 26# vs 28# iirc between the fbodies that did and didn't have the LS6 intake man.
do a search, you can modify your oil pan to accept an LS7 filter. The LS7 filter always keeps oil in it when the car is off so on startup there is no chance of having an 'empty' filter for that split second. may have to search corvette forum, i can't remember. i bought a pan with it done already and just switched out my baffle to the new one
do a search, you can modify your oil pan to accept an LS7 filter. The LS7 filter always keeps oil in it when the car is off so on startup there is no chance of having an 'empty' filter for that split second. may have to search corvette forum, i can't remember. i bought a pan with it done already and just switched out my baffle to the new one
Last edited by jmarsa; 08-02-2011 at 12:58 PM.
#19
The rod bolts from Katech and Arp are re usable. I have re used arp's countless times.
Sounds like your engine builder has an issue. Not the bolts.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...urability.aspx
Sounds like your engine builder has an issue. Not the bolts.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...urability.aspx
#20
What's a set of rod bolts? $100 maybe? What's the cost to blow an engine and rebuild or buy a new one? I've been there done that. Replace them regardless IMHO.
My last motor that blew went because the builder re-used the Katech rod bolts (if he would have asked me, or I would've thought I needed to actually tell him this, I would have had new ones in the motor). They backed out, hit the block, BOOM. I'm in the wall on fire and it looked like a grenade went off in my oil pan.
But hey, it's your $..
My last motor that blew went because the builder re-used the Katech rod bolts (if he would have asked me, or I would've thought I needed to actually tell him this, I would have had new ones in the motor). They backed out, hit the block, BOOM. I'm in the wall on fire and it looked like a grenade went off in my oil pan.
But hey, it's your $..
Katech rod bolts are reusable. They do not yield at the torque we specify.
SIK02SS your engine builder is making excuses.