Sporty-X

jenson is doing a kit but from what I've tested already, the best should be to modify the spindles to have shortened the little arms attached to the rack. Best results for the less work. If you need more then it starts to get complicated

jofe4

What extra work be needed other then possibly removing the front sway bar and tube lca?

Sporty-X

I spent much money in my car because it used to be a car for drag racing. Worst mod I've done before dedicated the car for drift is the 12bolts rear end, with the extra weight at the rear.

If I needed to build a drift car again, what I would do would just be :
- remove everything in the car to save weight (same under hood)
- put a Detroit locker in stock rear end
- extend 2 inch the front lower A-arms (cut and weld stock ones)
- shortened stock uprights
- make a good hand brake, which is easier on LS brake than LT as me
- you need to have a good suspension set-up. I now have Koni's + Strano springs. I believe maybe not the best but good enough for the money they cost. KW or good coil-overs are just very expensive.

My friend also use a Nitrous express - 100 shot to help when need. We both use 4.56 rear end ratio (him with a TH400 and me with the T56). I have a 250 shot too but don't use it for drift. I believe the more power is not what you really need

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

4.56? In the 12 bolt I pressume? If that holds up in the 10 bolt color me impressed.

Joe, all you really need to get going is the car with a T56. You wont have a lot of angle, but you can still have a lot of fun. Basic standard mod list for me is;
Eibach pro kit springs, bigger sway bar kit and endlinks, drill a hole in the e brake handle and button so you can pin it open, a good clutch, turn one PS pump, lots and lots of tires

Sporty-X

4.56 in my 12 bolts but also in my friend stock rear end (i have an eaton posi, he has a detroit locker).

Yes i forgot to tell that the first thing that faild in our both car was the steering pump. We both use turn One pump now

Jenson, i'm not forgetting you with the pic, just the car is not home right now

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

Im very afraid of anything in the 10 bolt other than the 3.42, just from breaking stuff on the street before. I know Robby has had good luck with his 4.11 in the 10 bolt though.

Sporty-X

Here is the angle Jenson

Keithm89

iTrader: (2)

After seeing Walley's GTO drift build and wanting a car to work on again, I figured a cheap drifter could be fun on the weekends. Was thinking of an e36 to learn on but after seeing this thread, pretty damn sure I'll be picking up a 4th gen again.

One question though, would the 3.8 be fine starting out or would the LS1 be ideal?

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

LS1.... The 3.8s are torquey but not powerful enough to spin the tires at will and build/carry momentum like an LS1. My car started out as a 3.8 with a stock 3.42 + posi, and drifting was possible, just not nearly as easy as when it had an LS1.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

Ebay turbo and run the 3.8 till it grenades?

Sporty-X

strange but I never noticed the Camaro has a short wheel base .. it is less than a BMW e30.

I believe the car would gain from having the mass re-center in the body, as moving battery inside car and fuel tank at passenger seat place.

What do you think ?

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

As cheap as 4th gen rollers with cages are I'd probably start there if I had to do it again. Swapping the V6 is easy but still work.

Thats not full lock in that pick sporty. Wheelbase is short, moving the gas tank behind axle, put the radiator where stock gas tank is. Robby just did this with his car. I'll get him to send me some pics.

Sporty-X

Yesplease, i would love some pics

RJR16

Have you considered swapping out the steering rack?

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

Thats what Andrew and Sporty have. Its a billet power rack from FR that has over 6" of travel. I'm currently exploring how to fit a Nissan 240 rack in there since the mustang based FR rack is still internally stopped. That started after I disassembled the stock rack and found that even after removing the internal stop, the serrations in the rack bar itself were already maxed out anyway

RJR16

ohhh I'm sorry, so much to read in this thread!!! Anyways, I've actually swapped mine out for an E36 rack (6") after finding out, just as you pointed out, that the stock rack didn't have the potential and also because I didn't really trust the method of cutting the knuckle and welding it closer to the center of the wheel.

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

Could you post more info (part numbers, modifications necessary) and pictures of the E36 rack conversion? Any major downsides to this swap?

Sporty-X

And how much angle with this conversion ?

RJR16

I drilled new mounting holes in the k-member and had to tilt the rack about 30° because the angle of the joint between the column and the rack was to steep. I cut the original ends of the steering hoses and fitted the BMW ends.
Then I carefully grinded the steering rack end that connects to the joint.
The last thing was to make extension rods between the rack and the track rod end.

I have not measured the angle and do not have any part numbers for you, sorry.

Here is a video for those who are interested

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

I looked at doing the E36 rack at one point, like you said though the holes were way to far off and the angle is all wrong. I'd like to try a 240sx rack. Mad props for making the E36 rack work