4th Gen drift build
Are you running the same width tires front and rear? If you're running wider in the back than the front, you'll have induced understeer from that. Squared setups tend to be the forte for the road race guys and keeps the car nicely balanced.
If you can adjust the rake of the car towards the front, that can help get some of the weight transfer up front. You can do this with a "weight jacker" setup that fits between the springs and rear end. If you had adjustable shocks, you'd be able to adjust the firmness and in turn can induce over/understeer depending on those settings.
What differential are you running in that 12 bolt?
If you can adjust the rake of the car towards the front, that can help get some of the weight transfer up front. You can do this with a "weight jacker" setup that fits between the springs and rear end. If you had adjustable shocks, you'd be able to adjust the firmness and in turn can induce over/understeer depending on those settings.
What differential are you running in that 12 bolt?
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
I've made several changes in the car.
My 12 bolt have an HD Eaton Posi
Sway bars are Hotchkiss in front and rear (37mm front and 25mm rear) (http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...t/model/camaro )
I daily drive with larger tyres at rear (275/315), but I use 255/255 for drift events
let me know if those parts can affect this understeering (all parts listed are on the car) :
- LCA relocation brackets + LCA
- adjustable torque arm
- subframe connectors (web style)
- Strano springs
- Bilstein HD shocks
- car has weight reduction : no more heater, A/C, dashboard removed , carbon fiber hood, UMI lower and upper A-arms, ... which are mainly on the front. I believe the rear is heavier with my 12 bolts so it should have changed the gravity center on the car
Also : I have 5° caster ; -2.5° camber ; toe 0
I have an event soon so I'm thinking about getting an airlift 1000 to stiffen rear quickly. a friend of mine has one and it seems to help on his car (which don't have my understeering problem)
My 12 bolt have an HD Eaton Posi
Sway bars are Hotchkiss in front and rear (37mm front and 25mm rear) (http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...t/model/camaro )
I daily drive with larger tyres at rear (275/315), but I use 255/255 for drift events
let me know if those parts can affect this understeering (all parts listed are on the car) :
- LCA relocation brackets + LCA
- adjustable torque arm
- subframe connectors (web style)
- Strano springs
- Bilstein HD shocks
- car has weight reduction : no more heater, A/C, dashboard removed , carbon fiber hood, UMI lower and upper A-arms, ... which are mainly on the front. I believe the rear is heavier with my 12 bolts so it should have changed the gravity center on the car
Also : I have 5° caster ; -2.5° camber ; toe 0
I have an event soon so I'm thinking about getting an airlift 1000 to stiffen rear quickly. a friend of mine has one and it seems to help on his car (which don't have my understeering problem)
Whats your pinion angle set at? Man thats a big front sway bar! When is it understeering? Corner entry, initiation, mid corner, power on, or just all the time? 12 bolt is a lot heavier than a 10 bolt too.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
My pinion angle was set for drag racing, I've reduced it now. I don't remember how much angle. My understeering problem is maximum at low speed for making fast short turn. the car tend to go straight
Pinion should be 0* fwiw. I don't completely understand the explanation. It is the worst at low speed, but it's still there on fast corners?
Is it all the time? While your on power? E brake? Is it under steering while drifting or grip driving? I think your front end is to tight just by looking at your specs though. I'd disconnect the front sway bar to test theory
Is it all the time? While your on power? E brake? Is it under steering while drifting or grip driving? I think your front end is to tight just by looking at your specs though. I'd disconnect the front sway bar to test theory
I've made several changes in the car.
My 12 bolt have an HD Eaton Posi
Sway bars are Hotchkiss in front and rear (37mm front and 25mm rear) (http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...t/model/camaro )
I daily drive with larger tyres at rear (275/315), but I use 255/255 for drift events
let me know if those parts can affect this understeering (all parts listed are on the car) :
- LCA relocation brackets + LCA
- adjustable torque arm
- subframe connectors (web style)
- Strano springs
- Bilstein HD shocks
- car has weight reduction : no more heater, A/C, dashboard removed , carbon fiber hood, UMI lower and upper A-arms, ... which are mainly on the front. I believe the rear is heavier with my 12 bolts so it should have changed the gravity center on the car
Also : I have 5° caster ; -2.5° camber ; toe 0
I have an event soon so I'm thinking about getting an airlift 1000 to stiffen rear quickly. a friend of mine has one and it seems to help on his car (which don't have my understeering problem)
My 12 bolt have an HD Eaton Posi
Sway bars are Hotchkiss in front and rear (37mm front and 25mm rear) (http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...t/model/camaro )
I daily drive with larger tyres at rear (275/315), but I use 255/255 for drift events
let me know if those parts can affect this understeering (all parts listed are on the car) :
- LCA relocation brackets + LCA
- adjustable torque arm
- subframe connectors (web style)
- Strano springs
- Bilstein HD shocks
- car has weight reduction : no more heater, A/C, dashboard removed , carbon fiber hood, UMI lower and upper A-arms, ... which are mainly on the front. I believe the rear is heavier with my 12 bolts so it should have changed the gravity center on the car
Also : I have 5° caster ; -2.5° camber ; toe 0
I have an event soon so I'm thinking about getting an airlift 1000 to stiffen rear quickly. a friend of mine has one and it seems to help on his car (which don't have my understeering problem)
Back when I was an extrovert, 90% of the people with ''understeering cars'' worked great when some simple settings were made to the control panel attached to the steering wheel and pedal box.
Your car is a manual correct?
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
Sorry not answering fast - I have long working days.
I will set the pinion angle to 0. It was more. I will also disconnect the front sway bar tomorrow just to see what will change. I believe I should also set the LCA at the stock position (I have relocation brackets).
The problem is the worst when I reduce speed on cornering then put power again : if the car start to go straight instead of keeping the rear end turning, it just change his way and the front start to initiate a straight direction
My car is manual yes
Initiating : depend on the part of the pad / track. For some very short turn parts, you have to use the Ebrake. the short radius is the worst for my car. Others are OK. My friend also use a 4th gen Camaro and no problem with its car. he can turn in very short radius. my car just don't want
I will set the pinion angle to 0. It was more. I will also disconnect the front sway bar tomorrow just to see what will change. I believe I should also set the LCA at the stock position (I have relocation brackets).
The problem is the worst when I reduce speed on cornering then put power again : if the car start to go straight instead of keeping the rear end turning, it just change his way and the front start to initiate a straight direction
My car is manual yes
Initiating : depend on the part of the pad / track. For some very short turn parts, you have to use the Ebrake. the short radius is the worst for my car. Others are OK. My friend also use a 4th gen Camaro and no problem with its car. he can turn in very short radius. my car just don't want
Yea, change the LCA position too. You dont need that until you are overpowering the rear tires. Remember not to slow down to much though, as you get to slow in the drift and return to power it will just want to follow the front's angle. Your car should do a lot better than your buddies in the short stuff unless he has more steering angle than you
Sporty-X,
If your buddy has no problem in his, I would have him drive yours. You're probably just turning in too much and not letting the front tires track in the direction they're trying to go.
If your buddy has no problem in his, I would have him drive yours. You're probably just turning in too much and not letting the front tires track in the direction they're trying to go.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
I changed my pinion angle (set to 0). Remove LCA relocation bracket. remove front sway bar. I didn't had time to make a test of the car but will let you know how it feels then.
I will also let my friend drive my car so he can give his own opinion.
I will also let my friend drive my car so he can give his own opinion.
And you always want the stickiest rubber possible up front. Rear tires should be the cheapest crap you can get your hands on until you get really get and need more rear grip. 315's wont work up front with more angle unfortunately.
Eh, there is a difference between managing an oversteering car and drifting.
If you run big sticky tires up front with stock steering angle the car is going to spin at any extreme angle. Traditionally on an actual drift car you'll have a lot of stagger, and a suspension that unloads the inside front tire. By having large amounts of grip in the rear as opposed to the front it allows the car to dangle at the edge of manageable slip angle.
My car I'm going to run 225/255 setup on stock vette wheels, and massage the knuckles to about 50*, fix my diff, add an accusump and proceed to party.
If you run big sticky tires up front with stock steering angle the car is going to spin at any extreme angle. Traditionally on an actual drift car you'll have a lot of stagger, and a suspension that unloads the inside front tire. By having large amounts of grip in the rear as opposed to the front it allows the car to dangle at the edge of manageable slip angle.
My car I'm going to run 225/255 setup on stock vette wheels, and massage the knuckles to about 50*, fix my diff, add an accusump and proceed to party.
Sporty is not running stock steering angle.
Yup, stock 10 bolt with the AAC cover/girdle, auburn pro diff. and 3.42's. I have H/C though. Robbie swapped to a 4.11 on his stock LS1 and said it really helped.
Yup, stock 10 bolt with the AAC cover/girdle, auburn pro diff. and 3.42's. I have H/C though. Robbie swapped to a 4.11 on his stock LS1 and said it really helped.
Even with bigger angle, if you go past it with large amounts of front grip the front will catch. On the cars that are setup to go fast they'll turn by the sheer wheelspeed and angle pushing the car around the corner, verus a lot of the shallow and slower cars that are basically riding off of the track of the front tires while the rear tires just kind of hang out and hold on. Does that make sense? I just did a terrible job of explaining that, lol. I plan on running maxium 245 front since I don't think I'll need to run bigger than a 275 for stock power.
I was thinking of doing shorter gears and a diff on mine with steering angle just to see how it did. I did some testing in Mexico the other day and my factory diff does not want to play ball when drifting to the right.
They're doing a 'street legal' series here in Texas, it would be hilariously fun to troll the entire fanboy concept by clowning on everyone in a mostly stock 4th gen Camaro, but I'm a little skeptical about breaking rear-ends now.
I was thinking of doing shorter gears and a diff on mine with steering angle just to see how it did. I did some testing in Mexico the other day and my factory diff does not want to play ball when drifting to the right.
They're doing a 'street legal' series here in Texas, it would be hilariously fun to troll the entire fanboy concept by clowning on everyone in a mostly stock 4th gen Camaro, but I'm a little skeptical about breaking rear-ends now.
I think I know what your saying. I just know when I put good tires on the front versus the crappiest things I could find, it transformed the car in to something I could drive and put it where I wanted vs managing where it was going to end up. Same goes for the rear tires too though. Im running 265/295's in tandem trim, which is probably overkill, planning ahead for the turbo setup though. Smokey is going to be a 4.8L with a 3.23 rear and 245's all the way around.
The 3.42 is fairly strong for what we are doing, these things are like glass with some sticky tires and a dead hook, but all we are doing is spinning. I clutch kicked the clutch out of mine too, rear end is still perfect. And it has seen a good bit of drag radial launches in the past and has about 98K miles on the rear end.
The 3.42 is fairly strong for what we are doing, these things are like glass with some sticky tires and a dead hook, but all we are doing is spinning. I clutch kicked the clutch out of mine too, rear end is still perfect. And it has seen a good bit of drag radial launches in the past and has about 98K miles on the rear end.