roy

Set up well camaros ar pretty good. Plus capitalizing on mistakes of others really makes you like a boss. Car is fast and it brakes quite well, but it will never turn like a vette or GT3. But it is fun car to drive.
http://youtu.be/kboUJJ3bxJU

LS-ONE_DAY

That image looks like a screenshot from Forza or something lol

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

The Yellow C6 Z06 was the only car of this bunch that could run with me or faster. Not even the 5th Gen you see in the back which had a Supercharger on it. The silver camaro, is my son's car and he didn't have 411's in the car he may could have done better on the high speed sections. Surpized a lot of folks that day. Granted this was only an HPDE2 day, but there were some nice cars there. This is VIR FWIW.

fixinitup

iTrader: (6)

Nice vid. What kind of power are you putting down with your current setup? What's your Brakes/wheels/tire combo if you don't mind me asking.

I'm looking to do my first track event on current setup at Willow Springs next month. Currently running stock brakes/heavy chrome Zr1 wheels/Nitto NT-05. I know I will need to upgrade my pads and fluid at the very least. What would you recommend? noise and dust not being a factor at all. Car sees the street every other weekend and I doubt I'll hear brakes over the cutout. Thanks

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Something others haven't mentioned is to be careful on long lefthand sweepers with the LSx motors. Too long at high G's causes the oil pickup to be uncovered. I've seen specific graphs showing that in long lefthand sweepers, LS3 blocks have oil pressure problems when at >1G for more than 4s.

While I haven't open tracked my car, my understanding is that dry sump > Accusump > Improved Racing baffles to reduce that problem. There are some who like to drill the lifter trays because apparently even some Vette's with dry sumps have lost engines as a result. Perhaps if you stay on street rubber you'll be fine?

Mark2002

iTrader: (2)

This is one of the main reasons I limit myself to sticky-ish street tires (NT-05s in my case), no slicks. Other than bolt ons, my engine is entirely stock, and I run an extra quart of oil. Horseshoe, boothill, tombstone at MSR Cresson is way-over 4 seconds of left hander and I've never seen even a glitch in oil pressure. Although I could be wrong, I don't think anyone in a mildly modified car on street tires running an extra quart of oil would ever have to worry about this.

My .000000002 cents

Mark.

ChrisRZ28

Nice! Anymore pictures?

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

What does it weigh with driver?

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I'm estimating 3175-3200 with me in it. This is a factory non-AC car (3455 starting weight) with the following weight reductions:

• Lexan glass all around (saved 50 pounds)
• 'glass hood and trunk lid (saved 100 pounds)
• aluminum front bumper and mounts (saved 40 pounds)
• plastic/aluminum radiator (saved 15 pounds)
• LS1 replacing SB 305 (@125 pounds, depending on who's doing the weighing )
• T56 + light flywheel and clutch replacing TH350 and TQ converter (50 pounds)
• Wilwood Dynalite front brakes (saved 40 pounds, unsprung)
• Aluminum drive shaft (saved 20 pounds)
• Wilwood manual brake master cylinder (saved 10 pounds)
• LTH + new exhaust (saved 30 pounds)

Further dieting will be VERY expensive (subframe, steering rack, etc), but some will be quite necessary (seats). A roll cage addition this winter will add a fair bit of weight.

Not of my car, unfortunately, but here are others that were at the same event. There was a pro photographer present. I won the "most colorful car" award The guy in the blue 5th gen has his nose taped on for a reason: he kissed the wall during the HPDE. But, a few guys there helped him get it buttoned back together for the second day of racing. Talk about nice, and he was a real trooper too.

ChrisRZ28

Cool! Thanks for sharing.

BlackDemonSS

Great pictures guys. Question. I need to replace my rear LCA bushings and am thinking of replacing the whole assembly. Question is should I get adjustable, non-adjustable, or juat replace the stock bushings?

camaro keith

I have been auto xing for three years now started in a 98 z28 auto sold it and got an 01 z28 manuel. they are def fat girls but with the right suspension they are a blast. I have tried multiple set ups and bought double even triple of some parts just to get the right set up and fell for me. But once you get her dialed in she's a beast to say the least. But before you hit the track i would def through on shocks and springs at a min if you dont you well spend more time side ways than anything pending on how hard you push it. check out strano web site or give him a call. http://www.stranoparts.com/

i would go with the brembo rotors yea they are pricey but they work great with the right pads

steev182

This is what I wanted to see. I'd like to start Autocross once I get a Camaro, mainly because I don't want to lose my license because of driving too fast on a road, and Nassau Coliseum's parking lots seem big enough for me to be able to avoid a bad crash!

I've never really thought about quarter mile stuff, but maybe I'll give it a go. My friend showing me his twisted in half driveshaft doesn't give me much encouragement in that at the moment though...

I love the English plates on there. Never saw a Camaro while growing up though... That must've been great to take it over to the ring though.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Killer pic, looks familiar.





A well driven and prepped F Body will **** of it's share of "exotic" owners. By the third session of the first day they usually are wandering over to you pit to look at your heap because they had to point you by.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

Ain't that the truth. We had a lot of that going on at Road America. The relief on several faces was pretty obvious when they found out my POS had a C5 engine / trans. I should have kept the hood down and told them it was a stock 305 with long tube headers.

That is a sweet looking Camaro, btw.

F Steed

If putting a roll cage in a unibody car, consider tieing the door bars into the rocker panel / door sill area. The reason is that on some cars this is the only area (that the roll cage can reach) that truly has the strength to take downward forces. Of course, chassis stiffness could also benefit.

BenZ28

I like my Camaro on the track, it's a rare car over here.

dbs1

After the economy kicked my home building biz in the nads I had to sell a couple of 1st gen camaros that did very well on the rr. A few years ago I decided to get back into it, but not much of a budget. My son and I picked up an 02 SS with a salvage title for $6k. Although body work and paint were very subpar, the mechanicals were sound.

After 10 minutes on the first session and a clutch pedal stuck, we found out how important it was to completely flush the clutch fluid and replace it and the brake fluid with dot 4 stuff. We too have had lots of input from Sam Strano and have bought several parts that have made big improvements, including his bigger sway bars, and bushings. I found a deal on some used bilstiens shocks and also found some deals on 6litreeater website for better brakes. Having a set of rims and using NT01 tires just for the track makes a huge improvement also.

I bought an 07 Z06 and although it was faster, I would not drive it like I would the much cheaper camaro, hence I could turn in faster laps in the ss. Just the predictable slide with the solid axle in the camaro vs the snap oversteer that sent the Z rotating without warning was enough to have me change my underwear. I since sold the Z and am in the process of dropping in a 650hp LS3. Even with the LS3 I am around $15,000 into the camaro vs the $40,000 I would be with the Z and just that thought kept me from driving it like I do with the camaro. And I KNOW what it's rear end is going to do.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I think there was a lot of that going on during track days I went to. People with the F-bodies and other relatively cheap cars were more willing to push them hard in the corners and so on, compared to the ones driving the high-dollar cars (Z06, Porsches, etc). I'm guess it was because these were mainly not dedicated race cars and people might have been seeing dollar signs. If I banged up the patchwork beast in my sig, I might be out at most 4K, and that would be if I had to hunt down a full-body donor. With a newer 'vette, 911 or 3-series, the price would be quite a bit north of that.

dbs1

Absolutely!! Add to that, if you have driven a solid axle car for quite a while that is somewhat predictable with how and when the rear end moves its one thing. Take a 500hp Z that likes to swap ends rather quickly if pushed hard and on street tires and is holding a large part of your retirement funds...I know it slowed me significantly.