Help me build a good LS1 motor for road course work
09-03-2012 | 01:00 AM
#1
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2012
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Help me build a good LS1 motor for road course work I posted this in the noob forum, before I even found this forum. Not a lot of posts in here, I realize most guys drag race, but here we go.
'00 FRC, track only Corvette. 114k on the stock motor, 8k track miles. I'd like to go race NASA ST2 next year. Only mods are KN filter, cat delete, and a conservative tune from ECS. AC and AIR injection are gone, car is gutted and all easy weight removed. This winter I plan on freshening up the motor. On the short list is a ported oil pump and heavy duty timing chain. I have a Z06 clutch on the shelf in my shop, and a lightweight flywheel is on my wishlist. What else would you guys do? I'd like to do a mild cam since I'll be in there anyway, and springs and whatever else the valvetrain asks for after a leakdown test. A little backround, I'm new to cars but have been building one-off custom motorcycles for about 5 years. I don't know anything about LS1 engines, but I'm one of those guys who isn't afraid to jump headfirst into anything, I love to learn. So tell me what you think? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
'00 FRC, track only Corvette. 114k on the stock motor, 8k track miles. I'd like to go race NASA ST2 next year. Only mods are KN filter, cat delete, and a conservative tune from ECS. AC and AIR injection are gone, car is gutted and all easy weight removed. This winter I plan on freshening up the motor. On the short list is a ported oil pump and heavy duty timing chain. I have a Z06 clutch on the shelf in my shop, and a lightweight flywheel is on my wishlist. What else would you guys do? I'd like to do a mild cam since I'll be in there anyway, and springs and whatever else the valvetrain asks for after a leakdown test. A little backround, I'm new to cars but have been building one-off custom motorcycles for about 5 years. I don't know anything about LS1 engines, but I'm one of those guys who isn't afraid to jump headfirst into anything, I love to learn. So tell me what you think? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
09-07-2012 | 04:11 PM
#2
We have been road racing LS motors for more than 7 years now with some pretty good success. If you are going to be running at 10/10 with sticky tires as in ST2 or SCCA STO one of the first things you should consider is improved oil control for the motor.
If you can afford it you should consider converting the motor to full dry sump or at least to the system that uses a scavenge dry sump pump with the stock pump for pressure. ARE and AViAid make systems from mild to wild for these applications. Cost is from 1800 or so and up.
A torquey cam, a good set of long tube headers and a good tune will give you plenty of power to start with.
The GMPP ASA Hot cam is an effective cam for road racing that is relatively easy on the valve train. There are others as well, we use a Crane grind that is a bit more than the ASA cam. Just don't go hog wild here, good torque between 3500-6500 is what you are looking for.
Improved brakes and engine/tranny cooling will be needed as well.
Wilwood and AP have nice brake kits for these cars.
Get as much weight out of the car as the rules and your wallet allow. FiveStar racing bodies makes lexan windshield and rear window for the FRC.
Your FRC should have a 3.42 final drive and that is fine for many tracks.
If you can afford it you should consider converting the motor to full dry sump or at least to the system that uses a scavenge dry sump pump with the stock pump for pressure. ARE and AViAid make systems from mild to wild for these applications. Cost is from 1800 or so and up.
A torquey cam, a good set of long tube headers and a good tune will give you plenty of power to start with.
The GMPP ASA Hot cam is an effective cam for road racing that is relatively easy on the valve train. There are others as well, we use a Crane grind that is a bit more than the ASA cam. Just don't go hog wild here, good torque between 3500-6500 is what you are looking for.
Improved brakes and engine/tranny cooling will be needed as well.
Wilwood and AP have nice brake kits for these cars.
Get as much weight out of the car as the rules and your wallet allow. FiveStar racing bodies makes lexan windshield and rear window for the FRC.
Your FRC should have a 3.42 final drive and that is fine for many tracks.
Last edited by garcr4; 09-07-2012 at 04:54 PM.
09-09-2012 | 10:30 AM
#3
I posted this in the noob forum, before I even found this forum. Not a lot of posts in here, I realize most guys drag race, but here we go.
'00 FRC, track only Corvette. 114k on the stock motor, 8k track miles. I'd like to go race NASA ST2 next year. Only mods are KN filter, cat delete, and a conservative tune from ECS. AC and AIR injection are gone, car is gutted and all easy weight removed. This winter I plan on freshening up the motor. On the short list is a ported oil pump and heavy duty timing chain. I have a Z06 clutch on the shelf in my shop, and a lightweight flywheel is on my wishlist. What else would you guys do? I'd like to do a mild cam since I'll be in there anyway, and springs and whatever else the valvetrain asks for after a leakdown test. A little backround, I'm new to cars but have been building one-off custom motorcycles for about 5 years. I don't know anything about LS1 engines, but I'm one of those guys who isn't afraid to jump headfirst into anything, I love to learn. So tell me what you think? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
'00 FRC, track only Corvette. 114k on the stock motor, 8k track miles. I'd like to go race NASA ST2 next year. Only mods are KN filter, cat delete, and a conservative tune from ECS. AC and AIR injection are gone, car is gutted and all easy weight removed. This winter I plan on freshening up the motor. On the short list is a ported oil pump and heavy duty timing chain. I have a Z06 clutch on the shelf in my shop, and a lightweight flywheel is on my wishlist. What else would you guys do? I'd like to do a mild cam since I'll be in there anyway, and springs and whatever else the valvetrain asks for after a leakdown test. A little backround, I'm new to cars but have been building one-off custom motorcycles for about 5 years. I don't know anything about LS1 engines, but I'm one of those guys who isn't afraid to jump headfirst into anything, I love to learn. So tell me what you think? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
Get a good aftermarket oil pump like a Katech brand and then run it a quart over full. A Vette will already have the good EGR system, so don;t worry about overfilling.
While the stock rods are great to about 7K, the fastners aren't. They'll stretch and that ain't good.
In NASA ST2, there really isn't any need to spin the crap out of a motor. Shift it at 6 and with ARP fastners in teh bottom end, keeping it oiled and cool, the motor should last for many seasons.
10-03-2012 | 11:05 AM
#4
LS1 motor You do not have to spend a lot of money.
There are quite a few SCCA T1 guys and NASA ST2 guys runnning an LS1/LS6 engine pretty lose to stock (T1 is stock/ST2 is close). With the new anticipated change in rules for 2013 for NASA to 8.0 lbs per HP you will need approx. 390 RWHP with you car at 3120 lbs.
Most of these guys are wet sump'd engines (due to cost of dry sump).
You can build an 10.7 to 11.0 compression motor with a stock LS6 cam or if you wanted to do a safe tune with a 224/228 .581/.588 cam on a 114 to 112 LSA and make 390 RWHP. This could be a 6200 rpm engine and be dependable. I would drill lifter trays and use Trend or Smith Bros restricted pushrods to minimize oil buildup in upper engine area, which is the killer on LS engines. An Accusump oil system is a fairly inexpensive backup with a dry sump being the ultimate answer, but also expensive.
A batwing oil pan tends to be more effective and holds approx 1/2 qt more oil than other stock pans. Run 1/2 to 1 qt over and you should be fine.
Good front brakes . Wilwood SL6R's with 7420 "H" pads are very cost effective. Stoptech/Alcon and Brembo are the best. You can run stock rear brakes or put your stock fronts on the rear.
Most important - Seat time/Seat time/Seat time.
There are quite a few SCCA T1 guys and NASA ST2 guys runnning an LS1/LS6 engine pretty lose to stock (T1 is stock/ST2 is close). With the new anticipated change in rules for 2013 for NASA to 8.0 lbs per HP you will need approx. 390 RWHP with you car at 3120 lbs.
Most of these guys are wet sump'd engines (due to cost of dry sump).
You can build an 10.7 to 11.0 compression motor with a stock LS6 cam or if you wanted to do a safe tune with a 224/228 .581/.588 cam on a 114 to 112 LSA and make 390 RWHP. This could be a 6200 rpm engine and be dependable. I would drill lifter trays and use Trend or Smith Bros restricted pushrods to minimize oil buildup in upper engine area, which is the killer on LS engines. An Accusump oil system is a fairly inexpensive backup with a dry sump being the ultimate answer, but also expensive.
A batwing oil pan tends to be more effective and holds approx 1/2 qt more oil than other stock pans. Run 1/2 to 1 qt over and you should be fine.
Good front brakes . Wilwood SL6R's with 7420 "H" pads are very cost effective. Stoptech/Alcon and Brembo are the best. You can run stock rear brakes or put your stock fronts on the rear.
Most important - Seat time/Seat time/Seat time.
10-03-2012 | 02:24 PM
#5
The GMPP ASA Hot cam is an effective cam for road racing that is relatively easy on the valve train. There are others as well, we use a Crane grind that is a bit more than the ASA cam. Just don't go hog wild here, good torque between 3500-6500 is what you are looking for.
What do you think about the Isky 280/290 cam for a streetable track car? I'm running the GM Hotcam (not ASA) which puts out good power in the right place but was wondering if there would be a significant gain (in the right place) with any other lower lift 112-113 LSA offering. I'm making 420 rwhp but obviously my car is 3500 lbs.
10-04-2012 | 07:21 AM
#7
Forgive me for if it seems like a tread jack here but so far this string has some great info.
What do you think about the Isky 280/290 cam for a streetable track car? I'm running the GM Hotcam (not ASA) which puts out good power in the right place but was wondering if there would be a significant gain (in the right place) with any other lower lift 112-113 LSA offering. I'm making 420 rwhp but obviously my car is 3500 lbs.
What do you think about the Isky 280/290 cam for a streetable track car? I'm running the GM Hotcam (not ASA) which puts out good power in the right place but was wondering if there would be a significant gain (in the right place) with any other lower lift 112-113 LSA offering. I'm making 420 rwhp but obviously my car is 3500 lbs.
The Crane grind we are using now is very similar.
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12-12-2012 | 11:20 PM
#10
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 113
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From: UP North
Welcome I posted this in the noob forum, before I even found this forum. Not a lot of posts in here, I realize most guys drag race, but here we go.
'00 FRC, track only Corvette. 114k on the stock motor, 8k track miles. I'd like to go race NASA ST2 next year. Only mods are KN filter, cat delete, and a conservative tune from ECS. AC and AIR injection are gone, car is gutted and all easy weight removed. This winter I plan on freshening up the motor. On the short list is a ported oil pump and heavy duty timing chain. I have a Z06 clutch on the shelf in my shop, and a lightweight flywheel is on my wishlist. What else would you guys do? I'd like to do a mild cam since I'll be in there anyway, and springs and whatever else the valvetrain asks for after a leakdown test. A little backround, I'm new to cars but have been building one-off custom motorcycles for about 5 years. I don't know anything about LS1 engines, but I'm one of those guys who isn't afraid to jump headfirst into anything, I love to learn. So tell me what you think? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
'00 FRC, track only Corvette. 114k on the stock motor, 8k track miles. I'd like to go race NASA ST2 next year. Only mods are KN filter, cat delete, and a conservative tune from ECS. AC and AIR injection are gone, car is gutted and all easy weight removed. This winter I plan on freshening up the motor. On the short list is a ported oil pump and heavy duty timing chain. I have a Z06 clutch on the shelf in my shop, and a lightweight flywheel is on my wishlist. What else would you guys do? I'd like to do a mild cam since I'll be in there anyway, and springs and whatever else the valvetrain asks for after a leakdown test. A little backround, I'm new to cars but have been building one-off custom motorcycles for about 5 years. I don't know anything about LS1 engines, but I'm one of those guys who isn't afraid to jump headfirst into anything, I love to learn. So tell me what you think? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
Also have new in box; GMPP ASA Hot Cam, Katech ported oil pump and C5R timing chain, GM timing chain gears, ATI 25 under dampner, GM dampner bolt, and assorted gaskets.
How is your build coming?
