fruitsalad

iTrader: (5)

totally off topic but...i swear it's always the pewter camaros that get into road racing

put a cage in if you're not driving it on the street. or even if you are. my DD is caged...

bene

iTrader: (16)

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I'm sure there's pewter in there somewhere...
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jcsperson

There's an epic thread on the Corvette Forum that is a worthwhile read for anyone considering HPDE. Skip past the 'vette-specific bits. There's a lot of knowledge to be gleaned from that thread no matter what you drive.

STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

wow thats like a bible for vette racing. even just skimming i picked up a ton of good info. looking forward to combing threw it all.

jcsperson

I've read the whole thing and it's not comprehensible looking at it just once. I've referred to it again and again.

Good luck. You're going to have a ton of fun.

ls1 1990 VN

That was one hell of a read!
Amazing guy to have done all that for others.

dbs1

Again, before buying the wrong part, or an unnecessary part, give Sam Strano a call and spend a few minutes on the phone finding out what you need and what you don't. Hell steer you right and save you some $ doing it. A dedicated set of lighter weight wheels and r tires may be the last thing you need on your list, but once you've mastered the basics....wow, what a dif they'll make.

STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

hey guys
looking for some more input on pads.
i will most likely run hawks.
from what ive read HP+ are recomended for the rear? or is there something differenent?
what about the fronts? ive seen everything from DT30, DT60, and DT70 recomended.

will be installing napa blanks at the same time.
i do plan to add spinel/hub mount brakes ducts cooling in the future.

ls1 1990 VN

Hawk pads are hard on rotors and extremely dusty

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

This^^^^^

I like the Ferodo DS2500 pad, best double duty pad I ran when I started. Don't know if they make them for stock brakes though. I ran them with HP+ on the rear.

If I had to do it over again, I would run DTC70 on the front and a 30 on the rear or HP+ WITH COOLING DUCTS.

When you overheat the pad it deposits itself onto the rotor, this is where brake vibrations come from.

My first event with DTC 30 on the front and HP+ on the rear I had a few screws fall out of the dash and had some loose fillings in my mouth it vibrated so bad.


Also:
DO NOT APPLY THE PARKING BRAKE IN THE PADDOCK AFTER A SESSION.

You will weld(melt) the parking brake shoes to the rear rotor.

STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

great advice guys. would have never known about the parking brake thing. great inside tip.
just to be clear your refering to cooling ducts on the front right? yall arent running rear cooling ducts on the rear are you?
and if so why are the cooling ducts needed on the rear of the HP+ street pads, but not on the 30 race pads?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Front only

ls1 1990 VN

Also after racing when hand brake is 'not' on do not let the car just sit and heat soak from the caliper in the same spot. Move the vehicle so the heat disipates over the rotor

jcsperson

I've graduated to a race compound. After a lot of research I settled on Raybestos ST-43s which go on tomorrow. This Saturday I'll be on slicks for the first time too. We'll see how it goes.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

EBC yellow stuff pads were good to my wilwood cross-drilled and slotted rotors, but definitely are one-weekend pads. I might be able to squeeze 500 or so miles of dd use out of them, but def not another hpde. I was surprised that my rotors held up so well, but perhaps it had to do with good metalurgy and casting. Could have been luck too. I did have a pair of directional-vane blank rotors waiting, just in case.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Please update us on this.

Also I used to make sure I rolled the car back or forward a few feet right after the session as I was also told not to let the car sit in one spot right after the session as the localized heat from the pads on one spot of the rotor with the rest of the rotor cooling at a faster rate can and has broken a rotor...........

If you do a PROPER cool down lap using the least amount of brakes as you can this seems to be fine as I dont roll the car any longer and have had no issues.

jcsperson

Well, if testing on the street is any indication, these things really bite. It's way more than just a SOTP difference over the HPSs I had on. They really weren't noisy like most people complain about when driving race pads on the street.

STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

i looked up the price on the DTC70 pads. $225 and you guys are burning them up in 1-2 HPDE events?
what have i got myself into
i might have to step down to DTC 30, and the HP+ on the rear to save some dough and longetivy.